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From the Petit to the Grand Châteaux
PJ’s Bordeaux 2003 Report
Many diamonds emerged from the extreme conditions of 2003

Château Cos d’Estournel; Bernard Magrez, owner of Château Pape Clément and a host of other estates, and Peter Yi, Owner of PJ Wine,  at Magrez’s Château Fombrauge; The lofted barrel room at Château Pavie
From left to right: Château Cos d’Estournel; Bernard Magrez, owner of Château Pape Clément and a host of other estates, and Peter Yi, Owner of PJ Wine, at Magrez’s Château Fombrauge; The lofted barrel room at Château Pavie.

The PJ Wine team dedicated the first two weeks of April evaluating the challenging 2003 Bordeaux vintage. After priming our palates with some memorable meals (and show-stopping wines), in Champagne and Spain, we made the most of our time in Bordeaux, visiting over 80 chateaux, and tasting over 700 wines, most 2, 3 or 4 times. As with previous visits, the trip was filled with many re-affirmations of consistent quality favorites, some pleasant surprises and a few disappointments as well.

The Executive Summary:
The 2003 vintage provided some of the most extreme sustained heat since 1893, and the weather undoubtedly had a marked effect on the broad quality of the wines. The vintage provided potential for excellent wines, combining lush, ripe fruit, expressive aromas, ripe tannins, and a rich velvety texture. There are some fantastic wines at every

Château Pichon Baron
Château Pichon Longueville Baron (Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville), whose 2003 is a candiate for Wine of the Vintage.

level, and we were able to find standout wines in the more modest appellations where expectations were not as high. The ’03 vintage was generally marked by low acidity and high alcohol, but the situation was very different depending on the type of soil, depth of the roots and the time of harvest. Many of the higher level classified growth wines did not suffer from low acidity levels. Even on the better draining, gravelly soils where the grapes stuggled, the most prestigious vineyards did not need to acidify.

Follow the example of the more diligent winemakers this year: for the best results, careful selection should inform your futures buying strategy. Unlike the 2000 vintage, 2003 is not a vintage to buy from top to bottom. We hope our extensive efforts to source the best wines and weed out the underachievers will make your decisions easier. However, the entire region suffered reduced production levels due to the heat, so wines will sell out faster than in recent years. Educated but timely buying decisions will be required to secure the best wines, especially those from top estates.

The Vintage:
The 2003 vintage was early ripening and subject to ongoing extremely hot weather during the summer months. The very high temperatures led us to expect numerous faults such as low acidity, high alcohol and very heavy, clumsy wines showing baked or raisiny flavors. Growers who got cold feet and picked too early suffered the
The stylish tasting room of Château Ducru Beaucaillou buy, wine, online, store
Tasting at the stylish tasting room of Château Ducru Beaucaillou, whose 2003 is one of the standouts of the vintage.

consequences with wines high in alcohol, but no depth of fruit or flavor. Sadly, we tasted more than a few heavy, hollow wines.

But what also surprised and pleased us was how fresh and balanced many of our favorite wines from trusted chateaux tasted. It became more and more evident that the grower who kept a watchful eye on the grapes and foliage, and allowed them to come to full physiological ripeness, succeeded in making exceptional wine. Even so, Merlot grown in better drained areas did not fare well, as it could not withstand the heat into the cooler end of the season when Cabernet Sauvignon was able to revive into full maturity, especially in the northern Médoc.

Below is a round up of the appellations and some of the true standouts at different price levels:

St. Emilion: The moisture retaining clay-limestone soils of the St. Emilion hills and the southern part of the plateau were the saving grace and resulted in some very intense Merlots and Cabernet Francs, clearly destined to be great wines.


Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande
Château Pichon Longueville Comptesse de Lalande, another of the standout wines in 2003.

Pomerol: Suffered from the heat of 2003 so much so, that the legendary Le Pin decided not to bottle a 2003 vintage. Some chateaux fared better. Among the more fortunate included Chateau Clinet and Chateau L’Evangile.

Côtes de Castillon: The traditionally less noble, heavier soils of the satellite St. Emilions have also done extremely well and are gaining popularity with each new vintage. A few that impressed us most on the campaign include Clos Puy Arnaud and Domaine de L’A.

Pessac Léognan / Graves: Quality was variable in the Graves. There were some very good white wines, but also many underperformers. The better draining, gravelly soils meant that many vineyards struggled to withstand the heat. Some of the better performing chateaux include: Chateau Carbonnieux for both its reds and whites, Pape Clément, Olivier, Domaine de Chevalier, Fieuzel and of course Haut Brion.

Margaux: Less consistent than its more northerly Médoc counterparts. A recurring problem in this region is a neutral and generic taste in many of the Cabernets — lacking individual expression of Margaux terroir. Some of the chateaux that managed to reach their full expression include Château Margaux, Cantenac Brown, Palmer and D’Issan.

St. Julien: Success with the later harvested Cabernet Sauvignon is dotted throughout the region. The highlights include Château Gruaud-Larose, Léoville Las Cases, Talbot, Branaire Ducru and Ducru-Beaucaillou.

Pauillac: Pauillac, along with its neighbors St. Julien and St. Estéphe is where the vintage is clearly at its best. The brightest stars include Chateau Latour, Lynch Bages, Pichon Baron and Lalande, Mouton and Lafite Rothschild and Pontet Canet.

St. Estèphe: In this region of the northern Médoc, the better wines are clearly going to be exceptional. Our favorites include Château Montrose, Cos d’Estournel, Phélan Ségur and Lafon Rochet.

Other Appellations: Some of the stars include impressive selections from the Côtes de Francs and Fronsac such as Château Puygueraud, Château de Rouselle and
The ultra chic tasting room of Château Latour buy, wine, online, store
The ultra chic tasting room of Château Latour, whose 2003 is amongst the very best of the vintage.

Richelieu. Château Clarke is an exceptional 2003 from Listrac and Château Pin Bousoleil is a Bordeaux Supérieur standout.

The potential of the 2003 vintage has already generated great interest, but we encourage our customers to be very selective. By being selective, consumers will find exceptionally good value, and extremely drinkable wines at an early stage and the best will mature and may even become legendary wines. The most successful wines, which have been popular in the last 3 years will continue to do well. We are pleased to share our ratings with you below and best wishes in finding delicious wines from the 2003 vintage.

Cheers!
–The PJ’s Team

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