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The PJ Wine team dedicated the first two weeks of April evaluating the challenging 2003 Bordeaux vintage. After priming our palates with some memorable meals (and show-stopping wines), in Champagne and Spain, we made the most of our time in Bordeaux, visiting over 80 chateaux, and tasting over 700 wines, most 2, 3 or 4 times. As with previous visits, the trip was filled with many re-affirmations of consistent quality favorites, some pleasant surprises and a few disappointments as well.
The Executive Summary: Follow the example of the more diligent winemakers this year: for the best results, careful selection should inform your futures buying strategy. Unlike the 2000 vintage, 2003 is not a vintage to buy from top to bottom. We hope our extensive efforts to source the best wines and weed out the underachievers will make your decisions easier. However, the entire region suffered reduced production levels due to the heat, so wines will sell out faster than in recent years. Educated but timely buying decisions will be required to secure the best wines, especially those from top estates. The Vintage:
But what also surprised and pleased us was how fresh and balanced many of our favorite wines from trusted chateaux tasted. It became more and more evident that the grower who kept a watchful eye on the grapes and foliage, and allowed them to come to full physiological ripeness, succeeded in making exceptional wine. Even so, Merlot grown in better drained areas did not fare well, as it could not withstand the heat into the cooler end of the season when Cabernet Sauvignon was able to revive into full maturity, especially in the northern Médoc. Below is a round up of the appellations and some of the true standouts at different price levels:
Côtes de Castillon: The traditionally less noble, heavier soils of the satellite St. Emilions have also done extremely well and are gaining popularity with each new vintage. A few that impressed us most on the campaign include Clos Puy Arnaud and Domaine de LA. Pessac Léognan / Graves: Quality was variable in the Graves. There were some very good white wines, but also many underperformers. The better draining, gravelly soils meant that many vineyards struggled to withstand the heat. Some of the better performing chateaux include: Chateau Carbonnieux for both its reds and whites, Pape Clément, Olivier, Domaine de Chevalier, Fieuzel and of course Haut Brion. Margaux: Less consistent than its more northerly Médoc counterparts. A recurring problem in this region is a neutral and generic taste in many of the Cabernets lacking individual expression of Margaux terroir. Some of the chateaux that managed to reach their full expression include Château Margaux, Cantenac Brown, Palmer and DIssan. St. Julien: Success with the later harvested Cabernet Sauvignon is dotted throughout the region. The highlights include Château Gruaud-Larose, Léoville Las Cases, Talbot, Branaire Ducru and Ducru-Beaucaillou. Pauillac: Pauillac, along with its neighbors St. Julien and St. Estéphe is where the vintage is clearly at its best. The brightest stars include Chateau Latour, Lynch Bages, Pichon Baron and Lalande, Mouton and Lafite Rothschild and Pontet Canet. St. Estèphe: In this region of the northern Médoc, the better wines are clearly going to be exceptional. Our favorites include Château Montrose, Cos dEstournel, Phélan Ségur and Lafon Rochet.
Other Appellations: Some of the stars include impressive selections from the Côtes de Francs and Fronsac such as Château Puygueraud, Château de Rouselle and
The potential of the 2003 vintage has already generated great interest, but we encourage our customers to be very selective. By being selective, consumers will find exceptionally good value, and extremely drinkable wines at an early stage and the best will mature and may even become legendary wines. The most successful wines, which have been popular in the last 3 years will continue to do well. We are pleased to share our ratings with you below and best wishes in finding delicious wines from the 2003 vintage. Cheers! |
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212 567-5500 · sales@pjwine.com |
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