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The Facts of Fizz...
PJ’s In-Depth Guide to Bubbly
By James Wright

What is champagne?
·  Why does champagne cost as much as it does?
·  What makes champagne truly unique?
·  What are the styles of champagne (the levels of sweetness)?
·  What are the grapes?
·  What are the soils?
·  What’s the weather like in Champagne?

What are the types of champagne? And some examples?
·  Non Vintage
·  Blanc de blanc and Blanc de noirs
·  Rosé
·  Tête de Cuvée
·  RD
·  Vintage
·  What is Grower Champagne and the meaning of MN, RC, CM and MA on the label?

What are the alternative sparkling wines?
·  Australia
·  France
·  Germany
·  Italy
·  Slovenia
·  Spain
·  USA

What foods pair well with champagne?

What exactly is this stuff champagne?
Whether one calls it fizz, bubbly, shampoo, champers or pop—it certainly has earned more nicknames than any other single wine.

It comes from a part of France called Champagne. Whereas la Champagne is the place, le champagne is the wine. La Champagne is the northernmost vineyard area of that vine-blessed country. Champs is the French word for a field; the Latin word campagna means open, unforested land. The capital city is Reims (or Rheims if you’re English). The way to pronounce this name is to start with an R, end with an ns, and growl in-between. This less-than-gorgeous city with its (permanently) unfinished cathedral where once the crowned heads were crowned (as opposed to Paris, where they rolled) is the great center of the champagne biz.

Other important champagne cities are Epernay and Aÿ. Famous wine-towns are Dizy, Avize, Mesnil, Bouzy, Vernay, Vertus, Chouilly, Mareuil, Ambonnay... The sub-regions are Montagne de Reims—mostly planted with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the Vallée de la Marne—(famous for the infamous carnage of the 1914-1918 war) mostly planted with Pinot Meunier, the Côte des Blancs—as the name implies, planted mostly with Chardonnay, the Côtes de Sezanne, planted with Chardonnay, and the Aube, planted in Pinot Noir. This knowledge is of limited importance to the casual consumer, because you will not see these subregional names adorn the label of a champagne bottle.

Why does champagne cost as much as it does?
One reason is that the champagne undergoes its second fermentation in the very same bottle that you open (not with a loud bang, if you please, but perhaps the same sound as your bicycle tire makes when the pin pops out), a process which is both time-consuming and labor-intensive.

For another reason, the law requires that the grapes be harvested by hand. This is not quite so provincial as it might seem, because two of the grape varietals in Champagne are red. The juice of red wine grapes is white: it is the contact with pigments in the grape-skin which give red and pink wines their color. If the grapes were harvested by machine, some of the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier berries would be crushed inadvertently, and the skin pigments would already be at work tinting the juice by the time the grapes arrived in the house.

Attached to this is the fact that most of the more than 110 champagne houses do not own their vines—they remain at the mercy of individual growers, under contract, who raise their prices every time they are able to do so. Most of the vineyard realestate in Champagne is in the hands of these 15,000 greedy so&sos.

What makes champagne truly unique?
Mainly the méthode champenoise, which is French for how they do it in Champagne. The most important feature for most of us is the bubble in the bottle. To be sure, the wines of Champagne were famous long before the present state of bubble was achieved, which didn’t happen until a relatively recent day.

There was an extremely important cellarmaster circa 1660, the Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Perignon, at the abby of Hautvilliers, one of whose great contributions to the winemaking in Champagne was introducing the art of blending, whereby, for example, wine from a parcel of vines yielding fresh soft and fruity juice was combined with wine possessing more prominent acidity, in order to promote a more harmonious entirety.

His other great contribution was using a cork stopper in the bottle, (and actually promoting the use of glass bottles, versus leaving the stuff in a barrel) which promoted the retention of the naturally occurring sparkle from when the wine began fermenting once more in the bottle (or barrel, for that matter) in the next batch of warm weather after the harvest. The saying goes, ‘When the grapes bloom in the fields, the wines bloom once more in the cellars.’

Champagne is made first as a still wine, one that is markedly high in acid. It is then bottled, and there is introduced a mixture of sugar-syrup in still Champagne the liqueur de tirage, which works with the yeast to produce the secondary fermentation. Fermentation happens thusly:

Sugar + Yeast (carry the CO2) = Alcohol.

When the fermentation takes place within a closed space: ie. a champagne bottle, the carbon dioxide is captured in the wine. These are those bubbles over which one rejoices once the cork has been removed. And the reason the champagne bottle is made from heavier glass than the Bordeaux bottle, or the Alsace flûte is that there’s something on the order of six atmospheres of pressure inside the bottle (about as much as in a tire on a Greyhound bus, and the thinner glass could well be broken from the inside out by the pent-up force.

Now, after the second fermentation occurs, the bottles are riddled. What this means is that the bottle is shaken, turned and tilted, so that after the process, the dead yeasts have been gradually persuaded down into the neck of the bottle, against the crown cap. Once upon a time this process of remuage was performed by trained cellar workers, but nowadays the riddling is mechanically done on large mechanical gyropallettes, large contraptions which rather resemble a Patriot missile battery. Before the bottle can be sent on its way to you, these lies (pronounced ‘leez’) must be removed from the bottle.

This once was done à la vollée—on the fly—by an extremely dextrous individual, but now the preferred practice of disgorgement involves freezing the neck of the bottle in an extremely cold saline solution, which composes the dead yeasts into an ice-pellet, which when the bottle is uncapped slides handily out. Then the bottle is topped up with the liqueur d’expedition, the cork and muselet (the wire muzzle that insures the cork’s good behavior) are put on the bottle, and it’s ready to go. Liqueur d’expedition is a very important part of the proceedings, in that it contains the dosage, which determines how dry or sweet the wine will be.

What are the styles of champagne?

Brut is dry, with less than 15 grams of sugar per liter

Extra-dry is less dry, with between 12 and 20 grams of residual sugar (notice the overlap)

Sec is noticeably sweet, possessing between 17 and 35 grams

Demi-sec is good-n-sweet, with between 33 and 50 grams residual sugar

Doux, more than 50 grams per liter

Now, the fun begins. We mentioned that there is an area of overlap between brut and extra dry. This allows for the interesting phenomenom called brut americain. The canny Champenois know that although we Americans talk dry, we actually drink medium-dry. So much of what’s shipped to America has a rather heavy dosage. I am rarely seen drinking Louis Roedererís Brut Premier, because I consider it excessively sweet. Couple years ago at the Michelin one-star Patrizierhof restaurant in the Bavarian town of Wolfratshausen, I was persuaded by the sommelier to begin my meal with a glass of Louis Roederer Brut Premier. Imagine my astonishment when the wine came out of the glass blazingly dry and brilliantly flavored! I ordered a second glass. Once I returned to America, I made a point of buying a bottle, and confirmed how different what we get is to that of what the European market receives.

What are the grapes?
There are three of them, two red and one white.

Pinot Noir which generally needs no introduction to the lover of fine wine. It produces the great reds of Burgundy, along with delicious wines in such far-flung outposts as Santa Barbara, CA Germany’s Rheinpfalz, and the Willamette Valley of Oregon.

Pinot Meunier is a little farther off the beaten track: its name—meunier means ‘miller,’ and refers to the folksy notion that the white dappling of the vine-leaves looks like a capricious miller has been dusting them with flour. Not only is Pinot Meunier a sponge for soaking up terroir, but unlike the other two members of the champagne committee, this vine will produce a second crop if the the first one happens to be killed by a spring frost.

Chardonnay which is everywhere. We all know it well. What’s not obvious is, this far north, the Chardonnay produces admirable acidity, which encourages the fleshier Pinot Noir to more eloquence of expression in the blend. Also stands solidly alone here in the blanc de blancs.

What are the soils?
Predominance of chalk, chalk, and more chalk, richly laced with minerals and fossils left behind by a prehistoric sea which covered the area some 65million years ago.

Champagne is as full of holes as an Emmenthaler cheese. These are les crayères, chalk caves dug by the Romans when they were building the city of Reims in the third century.

Wine has been grown in Champagne since the first century AD—the Romans kept spreading the word of the vine even at their farthest points of dispersion. The first century imperial edict that all vines in France were to be pulled out doesn’t seem to have been too rigorously enforced.

What’s the weather like in Champagne?
Nasty, horrible, foul, obnoxious—but not too terribly cold. No lack of blessing there, for Champagne’s about as far north as Quebec.

What are the basic types of champagne?

Non-vintage (or for the truly snooty, multi-vintage.) This is the most important steed in the stable of a champagne house, for it is the wine that determines the house style, the expression for which this or that company is noted. It’s a blended wine, one made from a variety of vineyard sites, and at least a couple of different vintages. By law it must be aged in bottle for fifteen months before leaving the house, although better houses leave it in the basement longer before embarking it.
Highlights from the current NV collection:

NV Armand de Brignac “Ace of Spades” Brut $299.99
A Champagne of pure opulence. It has been called the “new Cristal” for the ultra luxury celebrity set. Floral and citrus scents expand on the palate in rich, almost buttery fashion. This is a Champagne to be truly enjoyed and savored with an exquisite meal or at your next glamorous celebration.

NV Billecart-Salmon “Réserve” Brut $45.99
“More bass than treble. Full-bodied and voluminous, this delivers subtle, complex shadings of whole-grain bread, coconut and candied fruit, finishing with a distinctive rhubarb preserve aftertaste. It's rich and balanced on the soft side.” —WS 91

NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé $79.99
“Billecart-Salmon is one of my favorite Champagne houses, and their non-vintage Rose (Lot #L85547401905M) is a consistent winner. A delicate pink color is accompanied by gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry, and mineral-like scents, assertive medium-bodied flavors, a delicate, crisp personality, and surprising depth as well as persistence. A beautiful berry character in the finish adds to this impeccable rose’s captivating style.” —WA 94

NV Bollinger “Spécial Cuvée” (Net) $41.97
—WS 93

NV Gaston Chiquet “Tradition” Brut (Net) $28.97
“Pale straw. Intensely floral nose offers a vibrant array of fresh orchard and pit fruit aromas and a slow-building spicy character. Round and pliant, with vivid pear and white peach flavors, gentle acid lift and a brisk, clean finish. Really clings to the palate and possesses the depth and heft to stand up to rich seafood dishes.” —IWC 90

NV Devaux “Grande Réserve” Brut (Net) $31.97

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NV Egly-Ouriet “Tradition” Brut Grand Cru (Net) $56.97

NV Charles Ellner “Réserve” Brut (Net) $33.99
“An opulent Champagne with mushroom, toast and honey aromas and flavors. Appealing, this draws you in with its lush texture and supple mousse. Fine length, with a long vanilla- and honey-tinged aftertaste.” —WS 91,/p>

NV Nicolas Feuillatte “Cuvée Spéciale” Brut (Net) $48.97
“Brilliant. Full of biscuit, spice and mineral aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and forceful, yet its vivid structure and chalky intensity are well-integrated. Vinous and definitely a wine for food.” —WS 95

NV Nicolas Feuillatte “Reserve Particulière” Brut Premier Cru (Net) $25.97
“Pale color. Pristine aromas of lemon rind, toast and nut oils. Frothy, creamy and ripe in the middle; strong and concentrated but not at all heavy. Lovely toasty complexity. Firm and youthful, yet it softened quickly in the glass. This boasts impressive material and Burgundian complexity, and really clings to the palate on the aftertaste.” —IWC 90

NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru Rosé (Net)$32.97
“A distinctive ros‚ Champagne that smells like potpourri or Christmas punch with its cinnamon and clove accents. There's depth and intensity to the berry and whole-grain bread notes, matched to a raw silk texture and vibrant structure. Excellent length.” —WS 92

NV Gosset “Excellence” Brut (Net) $29.97

NV Gosset “Grand” Rosé $54.97
“This reliable Champagne house produces a good non-vintage Rose Brut, and this moderately pink-tinged example reveals aromas and flavors of sweet strawberries, bread dough, red currants, and a hint of lavender. Vibrant and youthful, it should drink well for 4-5 years.” —WA 90

NV Charles Heidsieck “Réserve” Brut $33.99
“Plenty of graphite and honey flavors mark this well-structured, effusive Champagne. Lemon, dough and vanilla accents are also present. Finishes with a tactile sensation around the gums.” —WS 92

NV Jacquesson “Cuvée #731” Brut $37.99
“Light straw. Intensely perfumed nose offers a compelling bouquet of spicy orchard and pit fruits, flowers and baking spices. Fleshy pear and peach on the palate, with cinnamon and mace adding complexity and bite. Gains weight on the strikingly clear and persistent finish. This is one impressive NV bottling.” —IWC 91

NV Krug “Grand Cuvée” (Net) $134.97
“A firm, dense, dry Champagne with complex flavors of ginger, spice, coconut and dried citrus wrapped up tight. Hangs together seamlessly, despite a youthful freshness and reticence on the finish. Needs time.” —WA 93

NV Lanson “Black Label” Brut (Net) $32.97
“An elegant, berry- and citrus-infused bubbly, very fresh and lively, with an intensity that carries through to the long, long aftertaste. Lovely expression.” —WS 91

NV Larmandier-Bernier Brut Blanc de Blancs (Net) $41.97
“Light yellow. Intense mineral, citrus and succulent herb aromas show an arresting pungency. Deep, powerful and focused, with superb depth to the lemon, green apple and wet stone flavors; bright, tangy acids contribute energy and focus. The concentrated, deep, minerally finish shows excellent length.” —IWC 92

NV Paul Laurent Brut (Net) $23.97

NV Laurent-Perrier Brut $33.99

NV Laurent-Perrier “Grand Siècle” Brut $79.99
“Pale straw. Intense, pungent aromas of mineral-accented green apple, Anjou pear and spice. Deep and fleshy, with almost painfully concentrated orchard fruit flavors and a sappy, clinging texture. For all of its weight and power, this is also precise and vibrant, finishing with a nervy mineral tone and excellent length.” —WC 92

NV Laurent-Perrier Brut Rosé (Net) $59.97
“Fresh, this ros‚ is reminiscent of red currant and orange. Backed by a fine texture that firms up on the finish, ending with a chalky feel and a peach aftertaste” —WS 88

NV Mumms “Cordon Rouge” Brut (Net) $26.97
“Pure, delicate aromas of lime, mint and biscuits. Bright but round, with brisk flavors of apple, lemon and minerals enlivened by fresh acidity. In a fairly dry, light style. Finishes with subtle fruitiness and very good persistence.” —WC 88

NV Mumms Extra Dry (Net) $26.97

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NV Perrier-Jouët Brut “Fleur de Champagne” (Gift Box)$109.97

NV Perrier-Jouët “Grand” Brut (Net) $29.97
“Shows finesse, along with depth to its honey, candied citrus and mineral flavors. Lovely balance and harmony render it seamless and graceful. Drink now.” —WS 91

NV Pierre Peters “Cuvée Réserve” Brut Blanc de Blancs (Net) $32.97

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NV Philipponnat “Réserve” Brut Rosé (Net) $37.97

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NV Philipponnat “Royale Réserve” Brut (Net) $28.97

NV Piper-Heidsieck Brut (Net) $26.97
“Lacy and graceful, this Champagne builds in intensity as its firm structure and viscous texture frame the honey, mineral and candied berry notes.” —WS 89

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NV Piper-Heidsieck “Cuvée Sublime” Champagne Demi-Sec (Net) $31.97

NV Ployez-Jacquemart Brut (Net) $35.97
—WA 90

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NV Ployez-Jacquemart Brut Rosé (Net) $38.97
“Shadings of gingerbread, clove, graphite and berry mark this rich, medium-bodied ros‚. It firms up on the finish. There's an intensity here that calls out for silky prosciutto or parmesan.” —WS 91

NV Pol Roger “Réserve” Brut (Net) $26.97
“A particulary good value.” —WA 90

NV Louis Roederer Brut Premier (Net) $35.97
“Delicious. Smooth and complex, revealing flavors of yeast, berry, ginger and citrus, allied to a firm structure. Ends with a firm, tactile sensation and an aftertaste of candied citrus.” —WS 90

NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs $59.99
“Rich and ripe, this bubbly has a superfine mousse, buoying its candied citrus, ginger and herb notes. Balanced and bright, with a mouthwatering finish.” —WS 90

NV Taittinger “La Française” Brut (Net) $38.97
“Pale yellow, with an energetic mousse. High-pitched floral and apple aromas are fresh and bright, accented by a refreshing note of mint. Yeasty and toasty in the mouth but ultimately a more delicate style, with fresh, sweet citrus and peach flavors. Finishes on a note of fresh bread, with a bit more weight than recent releases of this Cuvée.” —WC 88

NV Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec (Net) $37.97
“Like a sweeter version of a good Blanc de Blancs, with graphite, honey and lemon notes that mix with the richness and lively acidity.” —WS 88

NV Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label” (Net) $33.97
“A firm, medium-weight Champagne whose biscuit, citrus and wheat flavors stand up to the crisp, tactile finish.” —WS 88

NV Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label” 1.5L (Net) $79.97
“A firm, medium-weight Champagne whose biscuit, citrus and wheat flavors stand up to the crisp, tactile finish.” —WS 88

NV Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label” 375ml (Net) $15.97

NV Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier” Brut (Net) $43.97
“Silver-straw. Pungent apple, pear and nut aromas; in a yeasty, lightly oxidative style strikingly reminiscent of a sous voile wine from the Jura. Deep and rich, with powerful apple, pear and walnut skin flavors and a refreshing, almost salty mineral tang. Drink this singular, wild Champagne with full-flavored or washed-rind cheeses, or even blues.” —IWC 91

Blanc de blancs is made solely from white grapes, in the case of Champagne Chardonnay. These wines do not often exhibit the robust fruit of the Pinot Noir-based wines, but often achieve a memorable elegance.

NV Pierre Peters “Cuvée Réserve” Brut Blanc de Blancs (Net) $32.97

NV Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec (Net) $37.97
“Like a sweeter version of a good Blanc de Blancs, with graphite, honey and lemon notes that mix with the richness and lively acidity.” —WS 88

’98 Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs $164.99

’99 Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs (Net) $74.47

’98 Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Blanc de Blancs $39.99

’95 Charles Heidsieck “Millénaires” Blanc de Blancs $77.99
“Classy and graceful. Glides across the palate with its fine mousse, creamy texture and tightly knit flavors of coffee, candied berry, honey and hazelnut. Harmonious, lingering with a long, butterscotch aftertaste.” —WS 95

Blanc de noirs is made entirely from black grapes. And as we remember, the juice of red wine grapes is white and without contact with the dark skins it stays white. These wines are comparatively rare, most notable is Bollinger's Vieilles Vignes Française, made from fabulously old ungrafted vines in Bouzy.

Rosé is the French word for the color pink. The juice of red wine grapes is white. What gets the red in the red wine is contact between the grape juice and the grape skins during fermentation. What gets the pink in rosé wine is limited skin contact. Most rosé champagnes, however, are made by blending a bit of red wine (always from Champagne and often from villages like Bouzy and Ambonnay) with the champagne.

NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru Rosé (Net) $32.97
“A distinctive ros‚ Champagne that smells like potpourri or Christmas punch with its cinnamon and clove accents. There's depth and intensity to the berry and whole-grain bread notes, matched to a raw silk texture and vibrant structure. Excellent length.” —WS 92

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NV Philipponnat “Réserve” Brut Rosé (Net) $37.97

Tête de Cuvée is the general term for a champagne house’s luxury blend. Tête is the French word for head. Cuvée is a useful word which in this case means ‘batch.’ or ‘blend.’ For Veuve Clicquot it’s La Grande Dame, for Moët & Chandon it’s Dom Perignon, for Louis Roederer it’s “Cristal,” and Pol Roger call theirs “Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.” Tête de Cuvées are often vintage dated as in the above examples, but can also be non-vintage cuvées.

’89 Charles Lafitte “Orgueil” $69.99
“Rich and ripe, displaying tropical fruit, coffee, honey and citrus aromas and flavors. The texture is airy and open, yet there's a firm structure that emerges on the finish. Opulent, if a little coarse in the end.” —WS 91

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NV Perrier-Jouët Brut “Fleur de Champagne” (Gift Box) $109.97

’98 Taittinger “Comtes de Champagne” $129.99

’98 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame” (Net) $119.97

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’98 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame” Gift Box (Net) $119.97

RD is a Spécialty of the Bollinger house, although it’s been observed at other addresses. Means récement degorgée, or recently disgorged—the champagne has spent an extra long time on the lees before being finished and sent out to the market. A jeroboam of 1970 Bollinger RD drunk at Christmastime 1992 had been disgorged about eight months earlier, and was razor sharp and crisp, with voluptuous Pinot Noir fruit in between the toast and the finish.

’96 Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut $194.97
The Champagne of James Bond, R.D. is a Champagne of great power, complexity and age-worthiness. This R.D., which stands for recently disgorged, is one of the last releases of the great 1996 vintage and is likely to surpass the stunning 1990. “Dramatic aromas of ripe peach, pear, mango, musky yellow plum, fig, buttery brioche, toasted nuts and baking spices. Rich, deep and expansive on the palate, with powerful, deeply concentrated flavors of yellow peach, tropical fruit, toasted nuts, sweet butter, toffee and marzipan utterly filling the mouth. An endless parade of toasty, decadent fresh and dried fruits defines the finish, with a gentle but insistent mineral undertone providing focus, freshness and lift. This is a must buy for Bollinger fans.” —IWC 95

Vintage is exactly what one would expect from the name, wine of a single vintage—although not every year yields a wine deemed to be of sufficient quality to be bottled unblended with wine from other years. Still normally a blend of many different vineyard sites, vintage champagnes must by law be aged in the bottle for three years before the winery lets them go.

Vintage champagne can age extremely well. And exhibit loads of vintage characteristic. For example, my favorite is 1979, where the wines were comparatively high in acid, and which showed an elegance and intensity that’s pretty unrivalled. My best friend’s favorite is 1982, where the champagnes were very fat, rich and succulent. The oldest champagne I’ve had was the 1928 Louis Roederer, which had plenty of life left and lots of bubbles, even thought the fruit was showing just the slightest sign of drying out. An imperial pint bottle of 1955 Moët & Chandon (consumed in ‘92) had lost its bubble, but retained plenty of flavor. In fact, the test of a fine champagne is to let just a bit remain in the glass at the end of the evening, cover it with a slice of paper, try it in the morning. The wine should still taste good and well balanced. Warm without the bubbles.

’98 Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs $164.99

’99 Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs (Net) $74.47

’96 Duval-Leroy Brut $45.99
“Terrific balance between the racy structure, candied berry fruit and creamy texture add up to a winning combination. Still youthful, with a hint of yeast and an assertive finish.” —WS 93

’99 Charles Ellner Brut “Séduction” (Net) $79.99
“This shows refinement. The mousse is supple and the structure bright, providing the stage for roasted almond, mushroom and toast flavors. Has fine length, with a chalklike sensation on the finish. Drink now through 2015.” —WS 92

’98 Nicolas Brut Blanc de Blancs $39.99

’85 Krug “Collection” (Net) $596.97
This golden pale gem is the epitome of decadent elegance and showing at its zenith now. Delicate scents of citrusy pear and rich, toasty brioche notes interplay beautifully with elaborate mineral undertones. The palate is powerful and broad yet offers seamless finesse, highlighted by expansive layers of honeyed minerality, dried pear nuances, white truffle and delicate earthy tones. The finish is incredibly layered and long. This wine is a shimmering Champagne experience.

’81 Krug “Collection” 1.5L (Net) $1,399.97

Wonderfully aromatic with hints of lemon cream and mint on the nose and bright acidity, excellent minerality, and intense vanilla and citrus notes on the mid-palate, this lush Tête de Cuvée is equal parts vibrant and luxurious, a scintillating classic with just a hint of yeast on the finish!

’00 Louis Roederer Brut Rosé $61.99
One of our best values in fine rosé.

’98 Taittinger “Comtes de Champagne” $129.99

’98 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame” (Net) $119.97

’98 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame” Gift Box (Net) $119.97

What is Grower Champagne and the meaning of the very small print on the label?

Grower Champagne is Champagne which is grown and made by growers themselves, rather than produced by a large house, which typically sources its grapes from multiple growers. Grower Champagnes tend to be small production and distinctive in style, reflecting the character of the grower. Their wines also tend to be more variable and show more personality from year to year than the big houses. This is because Grower Champagnes typically do not have multiple grape sources to draw from to create as consistant a blend, year to year.

NM means that the brand is a négociant/manipulant, who has purchased at least some of the grapes, then made the wine. These include major Champagne houses such as Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, and Piper-Heidsieck.

RM means that the brand is récoltant/manipulant, who has grown all of the grapes themselves before making the wine. These wines are typically termed "Grower Champagnes."

RC means récoltant coopérateur, and refers to growers that make an sell their wines with the aid of grower’s cooperatives. These wines are also typically termed "Grower Champagnes."

CM is cooperative-manipulant, a crew of growers who bottle their own product together, although these wines can include purchased grapes.

MA is marque d’acheteur, what the British call 'buyer’s own brand' champagnes.

What are the sparkling alternatives?

Cava: good solid fizzy stuff made from perelada, xarello and such in the Penedès region of Spain.

NV Cristalino Brut Cava $6.47
“Subtle, leesy aromas of apple, spices, flowers and nuts. Dry, racy and perfumed, with intense ginger and apple flavors complicated by nutty and floral nuances. Finishes quite dry and restrained. Unusually subtle, fresh, clean Cava.” —IWC 87

NV Gran Gesta Cava Brut Rosé $13.99

’00 Gramona Gran Cuvée Rosé Cava (Net) $29.97

’03 Marqués de Gelida Cava Brut (Net) $10.97
“Perhaps the best sparkling wine value in the marketplace... A delicious estate-bottled sparkling cava with tiny pinpoint bubbles as well as crisp, yeasty brioche, apple skin, and white peach-like characteristics.” —WA 90

NV Mont Marçal “Extremarium” Cava Brut $14.99

NV Sumarroca Cava Brut (Net) $10.47
This affordable sparkler offers soft apple and pear aromatics with a subtle touch of toast on the nose. Very clean on the palate with a suggestion of peach, a lively mousse and a bone dry finish.

Blanquette de Limoux: Southern French, and the first famous sparkling wine. Made from Chardonnay and a local grape called the mauzac

Sekt: Germany’s delicious sparkling wine, made either from Riesling (frequently from the Mittelrhein) or from inexpensive Italian white brought in from the South. Pinot blanc and Chardonnay are also used by growers.

Vin Mousseux de Vouvray: made from chenin blanc, and just one notch less serious than Champagne quite often real yummy.

Saumur: also Loire valley chenin

Crémant d’Alsace: is made by the méthode champenoise from mostly the grape-varietals for which Alsace is famous, although they do have a bit of Chardonnay planted for the purpose of making fizz. An Alsace crémant does not have the lower pressure of a crémant from Champagne.

California: many champagne houses possess satellites in the Golden State—Taittinger, Roederer, Mumm, Piper, Moët & Chandon. The better ones are very nice.

NV Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley $15.97
“Smooth, rich and creamy, with spicy pear, fig, melon and honeysuckle flavors that are fresh and lively, ending with a tasty burst of ripe fruit.” —WS 88

Prosecco: absolultely gulpable sparkling wine from Italia. Made by the Charmat process, fermented in closed tank.
Below are some sparkling examples of the next best thing from around the world:

NV Mionetto Valdobbiadene D.O.C. Prosecco (Net) $14.47
This Prosecco is one the finest available in the US; it comes in a stylish bottle and is drinking beautifully right now. The staff tasted this Valdobbiadene in the early spring and we fell in love with it. Since then we've introduced it to hundreds of our customers. Made from 100% Prosecco, it has a pale straw color and tiny bubbles. Ample pear, yellow apple and a slight touch of ripe melon and apple blossom grace the nose. The fresh vibrant fruit on the palate is tempered by a creamy, nutty quality. The finish is crisp and bone dry. An ideal match with melon and prosciutto, shrimp or sea scallops saut�ed in butter, swordfish carpaccio and yes, it is also ideal to serve at wedding receptions.

NV Sergio Mionetto Prosecco (Net) $15.97

NV Riondo Pink Raboso Prosecco $9.99

NV Zardetto Brut Prosecco (Net) $10.47
“One of the finest of a bevy of light-bodied, crisp, tasty Proseccos in the marketplace, this blend of 95% Prosecco and 5% Chardonnay is frothy, fresh, and savory.” —WA 88

Italy

NV Sergio Mionetto Prosecco (Net) $15.97

NV Riondo Pink Raboso Prosecco $9.99

’06 Elio Perrone “Bigaro” Moscato/Brachetto Blend $16.99
This is an extremely appealing, lightly sweet, lightly sparkling rosé. Strawberry jam scents are interlaced with notes of apricot and peach blossom on the nose. On the palate it is a delicious expression of mixed berries, apricot and just and touch of minerality. Low alcohol, good acidity and tiny, soft bubbles make it vibrant and refreshing on the palate. Serve as a lively apéritif or as a senstational match with fresh berries, sorbet, chestnut tarts or chocolate desserts.

Spain

’00 Gramona Brut Cava “Gran Cuvée” Rosé $29.97

NV Gran Gesta Cava Brut Rosé $13.99

NV Mont Marçal “Extremarium” Cava Brut $14.99

USA:

California

NV Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs $12.47
“Wins points for its understated elegance and subtle hints of ripe cherry, rose petal, spice and citrus notes. The finish is refreshingly clean and offers enough complexity to tempt you for a second glass.” —WS 87

NV Gloria Ferrer Brut Sonoma $12.47
“An exceptional value. Round and full-bodied, with rich, ripe apple, pear and honeydew melon flavors. This complex sparkler has a nice touch of yeast and doughy aromas that give it added character, turning creamy with a touch of vanilla.” —WS 90

New Mexico

NV Gruet Brut “Méthode Champenoise” New Mexico $11.99

NV Gruet Demi-Sec “Méthode Champenoise” New Mexico $11.99

Food matches with champagne?
We recommend champagne as an excellent enhancement to fine dining—not just at the outset, but all through your meal.

As far as Chinese carryout goes, champagne is the next best thing to beer.

A #1 on the guilty-pleasure list is a non-vintage rosé champagne with Peking Duck.

To continue with the pink stuff, a vintage rosé served alongside seared salmon with cracked black peppercorns is a very impressive dish.

A personal favorite for starting off a long meal is a bottle of vintage blanc de blancs with a manchego & spring-onion quesadilla.

Blanc de blancs goes quite handsomely alongside an Alsace onion tart.

Another favorite for blanc de blancs is a Persian dish called kashk budemjan—eggplant with a sheeps-milk whey concoction.

Ceviche of bay scallops with soy and cilantro is a fine companion to a masculine Pinot Noir-based champagne like Bollinger or Veuve Clicquot.