August Staff Picks

Peter: '00 Son Bordils, Negre, $14.49 And what might this be? It's a dry red from the island of Mallorca, south and a little bit east of Barcelona in the Mediterranean. Primarily made from merlot, there's a goodly proportion of the local red varietal negre–along with bits of cabernet, garnacha, syrah, and cab franc. This is dark and delicious stuff, loosely wrapped in an envelope of new world oak: spicy, juicy dark fruits and black cherry with vanilla, accompanied by notions of leather, tar, and herb flavors. One might almost call it rustic, but the fruit is so forward, and so juicy, and so–dare I say delicious one more time? Serve alongside, say, moussaka–or with your favorite kebab. Sam: '01 Julian Chivite, Gran Fuedo Rosé $5.99 I've never particularly cared for rosé wine in the past, but this beauty from Navarra, Spain–made with 100% garnacha–floored me. First, the light floral aromas enchanted me, then the ripe, lingering cherry fruit, smooth stylish texture, and clean finish made me (finally!) a believer. Though this wine would pair well with just about anything, the summer would suggest a barbecued delight of grilled salmon garnished with sliced avocado, or possibly a fresh seafood salad–or even grilled chicken breast soaked in lemon over linguini. The possibilities… Justin: '95 Hacienada Monasterio, Reserva Especial $52.99 This arch, masculine wine is lush with velvet black cherry on the nose; yet fragrant with sweet notes of fresh cut hay. This is classic tinto fino grape power, complexity and aroma. On the palette there is deep dark tarry cherry fruit which finishes with fine dusty-earth tannins, typical of the best '95 Ribera del Dueros. As the wine opens in the glass it takes on a Bordeaux-like reserve and finesse of lead pencil, red cherry and soft earthy spice. The finish extends, closing with tarry elegance. This wine is alive and I can think of little better to go with a thick, juicy, char-crusted steak. Drink now, or give it 5-10 years to soften.

John: '99 Gustavo Thrace, Napa Vally Zinfandel, $25.99 Zinfandel is an American classic–once thought to be of native Californian origin, it's now been shown that it originated in Croatia. Grown mostly in California, though, it goes well with "typical" American food–pizza, burgers, etc. This is the fourth vintage for Gustavo Thrace Zinfandel, a relatively new winery in Napa Valley. This wine is fruity and full. It has the nose of a young zin, but the mouthfeel of an older one. Decanting the wine before serving will open it up. As the wine slowly evolves in the glass, it reveals layers of cherry, raspberry, cloves, black pepper and stewed dark fruit. The intense flavors are nicely integrated between sweet oak and the fruit's own inherent spice. The lingering finish has become a hallmark of Gustavo's winemaking style. I love this wine with dry-rubbed ribs, rich molé sauces, and meat dishes with fruit/wine sauces. You'll wish the bottle was bottomless. James: '01 Glatzer, Grüner Veltliner Kabinett $6.99 Grüner Veltliner is the national treasure of Austria–the great café wine of the city of Vienna. From the Carnuntum region just south of that erstwhile imperial and royal capital, this hand-harvested white wins top honors as one of the most remarkable wines to come our way in many moons. For suave, sophisticated and inspirational summer sipping, there's simply nothing which comes close at the price. The high-toned aromatics fairly leap out of the glass–there's a nice whiff of freshly-cut grapefruit shot with white pepper, then the wine is light but prominent on the palate–it finishes crisp and dry with a lively snap. A versatile white, it does double duty: shines alongside dishes prominently peppered, and also cuts cream sauces with a flourish. Arline: '97 Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes $57.99 What I like about this premier cru Sauternes is its vibrant combination of honey, apricot and peach aromas—and then the flavors that follow directly out of them, which just coat the palate like there's no tomorrow. I also think that for a young Sauternes, it doesn't have too much acid… it doesn't seem the least bit harsh. I also like it because it offers the chance to be self-indulgent. It's just about flavor, and about pleasure. And it's not just for dessert. Any dish that you choose to match to it should be something very luxurious. Treat yourself to something nice.