September Staff Picks

Peter: '00 Hamilton's, Ewell Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon $14.99 From Barossa Valley in the state of South Australia. This is such a tempting and inviting wine—it's long on aroma—the classic Ozzie cab notes of wintergreen in a blackcurrant and black cherry base. The American oak provides a decadently inviting vanilla patina, and there's a chocolaty richness on the palate. The wine finishes with those deceptively ripe and soft Barossa tannins, which provide structure and backbone without making the taster pay in terms of suffering the least bite of bitterness. Very nicely done! Top pick under twenty to go with a marinated filet. Sam: '98 Shafer, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $47.99 The first impression from the aromas when I open a bottle of wine is the one which lingers with me. In this case, superlative berry and violet aromas seduce me, and its vibrant ruby and purple colors show of this big, full-bodied red, made from 93% cabernet sauvignon and 6% cabernet franc. Thick tannin and delicious blackberry licorice linger on the palate, with juicy strawberries and the ripest cherry liqueur flavor imaginable. Truly heaven for the mouth. The finish is soft, belying the power and complexity of the wine. This is the classic archetypical big California cab. The knock on '98 simply doesn't apply here, for this Shafer upholds the reputation of this outstanding winery. The trouble is, what dish should one have with this wine? Maybe a rack of lamb with truffles? Or a traditional American dish like roasted beef with potatoes? Or any other red meat? My suggestion is to enjoy a bottle today, maybe lay a few more down and experience it again in a few years. The last glass will taste as good as the first. Justin: '99 San Roman, Spanish Red, Toro $28.99 "Hedonistic" may be an over used wine term, but not here. This top Toro wine from Mariano García is pure voluptuous, full-bodied, seductive pleasure. The color is deep opaque ruby. Dark ripe black cherry scents stream from the glass as it opens; exuding notes of milk chocolate, soft red earth, smoke and exotic spice, encased in that sweet smell of summer meadow. On the palate the chewy dark cherry fruit cascades mouth-wateringly through the mid-palete—carrying with it the flavours of all those scents. The fine ripe tannins are oh-so-soft. This, perhaps, is Mariano García's magic, to tame near excesses of flavour into round harmonious wines. It is, in a word: irresistible.

John: '99 Abadia Retuerta, Selección Especial $21.99 I'm convinced after tasting this Sardón de Duero that Abadia Retuerta's terrific winemaker, Angel Anocibar, makes wines with the utmost love and respect for the vine. All of their wine production comes as the result of careful vineyard selection and hand harvesting. This estate has 496.8 acres of vineyards planted in elevations that range from 2100 to 2460 ft, resulting in a thick skinned tempranillo grape that yields a dark and rich color with flavor to spare. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot are blended in to give the wine a boost of ripe summer-berry richness and body, as well as a classy, complex bouquet of flowers, licorice and vanilla. A concentrated and powerful wine, it will reward those who have the ambition to decant it or the patience to lay it down for a few years. The perfect food companion is the legendary Ribera del Duero dish lechazo— baby lamb—guaranteed to match the wine in both richness and flavor. James: '00 Hans Wirsching, Scheurebe Spätlese Trocken $23.99 Iphöfer Kronsberg, from Franken—comes in the traditional Bocksbeutel. Imagine the aromaticity of viognier combined with the structure of great Vouvray. (More importantly, imagine the vinous analogue to a baroque church...) The entirely excessive aromas are those of grapefruit, mango, and kiwi fruit which come swirling and whirling out of the glass to unrepentantly attack the ol' olfactoratus. Then the wine hits the palate rich and multilayered, with flavors of custard and caramel, accentuated by the brown-marl terroir of this top site. The acid lies cleverly concealed beneath layers and layers of fruit—unobtrusive, though the wine is finished dry. My designer-recipe created to match this colossus involved mixed sea scallops and size 15 shrimp in a cream sauce based in ginger and shallot (walnut oil, splash of balsamic vinegar), with fresh ground fennel and crumbled pistachios, served on a plate with a few spears of cold lemon-sprinkled asparagus. Arline: '01 Dr Loosen, Estate Riesling $9.99 This is such a delicious wine! It's so, so fruity—but not only that; it also shows the famous mineral undertones of the middle Mosel valley. Add to this a vibrant acidity which makes your entire mouth tingle, and it's almost perfect. Did I say that it was low in alcohol? That too! Probably the closest fruit-description would be a tart Granny Smith apple, the kind your grandma baked into pies, so it's not too sticky-sweet. I like this wine because it's luscious enough to drink on its own, but put together well enough to serve with a nice piece of salmon. Nothing better for your picnic or tailgate party!