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November Staff Picks
Peter:
'99 Pittacum, Bierzo Crianza $18.99
The wines of Bierzo in northwestern Spain have been made for centuries from a grape called mencía, which is found nowhere else in the world. Pittacum´s goal is to demonstrate mencia´s enormous potential by using reduced yields and modern controlled fermentations to maximized its spicy red fruit character. This wine succeeds from the first whiff of ripe berries, white pepper and coconut through the tangy cherry and berry flavors with notes of citrus peel to the firm but polished finish. A great match for a rich paella or risotto. An absolute steal at the price. Dominates over many of its peers that are charging more than three times the price for the same varietal. Drink over the next year to capture the mencía fruit at its peak.
Dominique:
'99 Matanzas Creek, Sonoma Valley Chardonnay $26.99
Long recognized as one of California's premier producers of Chardonnay, Matanzas Creek Winery has continued its tradition with the release of this 1999 vintage. Based on fruit from the cool climates within the Sonoma Valley and the Russian River appellations, this Chardonnay, which was put through 100% fermentation and full malolactic in French oak, exhibits a really good balance, structure and complexity. Seven months of barrel aging on the lees, with monthly stirring , produce a wine that is full bodied with a silky texture, buttery rich, yet cleanly crisp with well defined acidity.
When I first tasted this chardonnay, with Even A. Bakke the winemaker, I didn't think it was a Californian Chardonnay, but a Burgundy style Chardonnay. The nose is fresh and clean, and not masked by the usual oak aromas, just a hint of it . The heady aromas of apples, toast and citrus are laced with notes of honeyed buckwheat. Apple and pear are the main flavors coming on the attack, framing the palate while lemony citrus, white flowers, light spice and hint of smoky oak add harmony to the complexity. With a long and creamy finish, this wine will a great companion to any fish with creamy sauce, wild mushroom risotto or white meat stewed. I just loved it. That's it.
Justin:
'94 Miguel Merino, Rioja Reserva $26.99
The '94 Miguel Merino Reserva marks an outstanding debut for this winery and it's founder Miguel Merino. It balances the perfumed fragrance and polish of more traditionally styled Rioja with the intensity and oak aging of newer styled, more "international" wines. Along with this judicious balance what sets this wine apart is the old vine expression and complexity that immediately comes acrossa testament to the quality of the old vine fruit cultivated on the outskirts of Briones in Rioja Alta.
On the nose there are mineral and balsamic notes over dark cherry fruit with a smokey, meaty undercurrent and a touch of spice. On the palate it is polished and medium-bodied, but with a hint of that lush, velvety texture sometimes overdone in newer styled wines. The juicy cherry fruit comes more forward in the mid-palate with a distinctive candied side, which I suspect will evolve more toward jammy strawberry as the wine ages. There are also notes of leather, tobacco, licorice and the smooth finish closes with balsamic dark cherry fruit and ultra-fine tannins. This well-balanced wine is versatile with food and has the stuffing for further aging, but more importantly it is a pleasure to drinkwhether now or in years to come.
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John:
'99 Paul Jaboulet, Parallel 45 Rouge $7.49
The firm of Paul Jaboulet Aine has been a trend setting grower and shipper in the Rhone Valley since 1834. Director Michael Jaboulet is aided by various members of the family in the everyday business of making excellent and exclusively Rhone wines. Jaboulet makes 26 Rhone wines, and 95% of their production is red. Their 229 acres of vineyard now include almost all of the prestigious appellations in the northern half of the valley.
The 1999 Parallele 45 Rouge is a cherry red color with mauve hints. The wine is complex and intense, with red berry aromas uplifted by spicy notes of black pepper and coriander. Fresh and lively with a remarkable tannic structure and power. The wine is enjoyable to drink on its own, or shines with anything off the grill, especially lamb.
Nadja:
NV Vilmart & Cie, "Grand Cellier" Brut $34.99
Holiday celebration are on their way and what better drink can one think of than Champagne. Created in the premier Cru Village on the slopes of the Montagne de Reims in the very heart of Champagne comes Vilmart and Cie's NV "Grand Cellier" Champagne. Champagne Vilmart was founded in 1872 by Desire Vilmart and passed to Charles, then Rene and now Laurent Champs, the grandson of Rene Vilmart. Rene was the main pioneer of this Premier Cru" house. In the 1930's Rene established the house's reputation as one of quality and consistence.
The "Grand Cellier" is bio-dynamically farmed, then fermented and aged for ten months in large oak foudres. A beautiful blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir and no filtration creates supreme elegance. Fine mousse and luscious fruit coating the palate with such balance and a nose that makes you close your eyes and takes you to the hilltops where it was born is what you get. This champagne makes me melt. I want to hoard the tantalizing apple, peach and silky vanilla notes all for myself. When I taste grapes this good in a bottle, I just want to dive into a vat of it and drink until my heart's content, but then my friends would never be able to witness the miracle that I speak of. Ohh the sheer torture.!! Divinely created for the perfect romantic evening for two or a sophisticated celebration for 200. The "Grand Cellier" received 90+ points from Tanzer and Wine & Spirits and with the beautiful structure, elegant balance and poised characteristics of a Bollinger, need I say more? Hat's off to the Vilmart Champagne house.
Patrice:
'99 Wild Duck Creek, Springflat Shiraz $45.99
Another big red from the "Land Down Under"
the Wild Duck Creek Springflat Shiraz is made from 100% Shiraz grapes. Wine
makers David and Diana Anderson use grapes from their own estate and blend them
with those from four small neighboring vineyards. The wine is then aged in
French and American oak for 17 months.
1999 was a hot year in Australia and produced many rich powerful wines, the
Springflat Shiraz being no exception. The black purple color is very opaque
wiht a nose of crushed black fruits and roasted nuts. On the palate there are
flavors of creme de cassis, prunes, licorice and spice with a healthy dose of
toasty oak. With the cold weather upon us this is a great wine to enjoy with
a hearty beef or lamb stew accompanied by some fine crusty bread.
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