May Staff Picks

Don: ’03 Capiaux Pinot Noir “Chimera” California $22.99 Sean Capiaux is a well-traveled, well-rounded winemaker who started his career working as an assistant winemaker in California for Jordan and in Australia for Houghtons. Upon returning from Australia and after a stint at Pine Ridge he launched his own Capiaux brand in 1994 specializing in vineyard specific Pinot Noir. In 1996 he went bi-coastal as a winemaker, making wines for such notable New York State wineries as Jamesport, Macari and Schneider Vineyards. In 2001 he helped launch the winery as winemaker for the Napa Valley property on Howell Mountain known as O’Shaughnessy. Today O’Shaughnessy and Capiaux are his main focus. Capiaux first caught my attention with a 1995 bottling of Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast vineyard called Demonstene. It captured for me what only a few wineries in California (like Williams & Selyem at the time) were able to capture. True, ripe, proper and correct Pinot Noir fruit that was Burgundian in style, Californian in its accessibility and had the potential to improve with age, which that wine did. Since then I’ve been a fan. Capiaux for the most part has been producing single vineyard wines from some of California’s best and most sought after Pinot Noir vineyards which include Gary’s, Widdoes, Wilson, Freestone Hill and Pisoni. A newer bottling which is actually a blend of the named vineyards is called "Chimera". This wine has deep ruby red color with dark aromas of ripe plums and black currants with notes of brown sugar and truffle. On the palate the wine is loaded with cherries both sweet and dark with an interesting touch of root beer to round out this wine's complexity of flavors and leads to a creamy finish. It is very easy to drink and extremely versatile as a food wine as good Pinot Noir should be. Did somebody say Copper River Salmon? It is the month of May you know, and after your local fishmonger is done picking your pocket for said delicacies youÕll be happy to know that this killer Pinot is under thirty bucks! That is just one of the possible advantages of a vineyard blended Pinot Noir over a single vineyard one...price and sometimes even added complexity and I believe that to be the case here. I also should mention that at 485 cases produced the "Chimera" represents the largest single bottling in the Capiaux portfolio. Sean Capiaux has become a much sought after winemaker who has been a consulting winemaker for many wineries over the last fifteen or so years. In addition to Capiaux and O’Shaugnessy he has been a consulting winemaker at my favorite New York State property Schneider Vineyards on The North Fork of Long Island, which in my opinion makes New York’s finest wines from Cabernet Franc. Recently, in a conversation with Bruce Schneider he commented that Sean Capiaux "is without question one of the most talented winemakers in the United States, who makes wines of great structure, complexity and authenticity." I could not agree more. In addition I believe Capiaux is a winery on the verge of greatness and one to watch very closely…Enjoy Justin: ’96 CVNE Rioja Gran Reserva “Imperial” $36.99 This is an elegant and classic red featuring impressive fruit density, complexity and ageworthiness. It is from the highly esteemed, traditional Rioja producer, CVNE (aka CUNE), which is short for Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España, and pronounced coo-NAY. It was founded in 1879 in Haro in the Rioja Alta section of Rioja. Today CVNE includes the original winery in Haro, the new, state-of-the-art, “Viña Real” winery in the Rioja Alavesa section of Rioja as well as the superlative, single vineyard estate, Contino, also in Rioja Alavesa. CVNE’s wines are known for their quality at all levels—from the lower-end, higher production “Cuné” line to the “Viña Real” and “Imperial” Reservas and Gran Reservas to the modern-styled, high-expression cuvées. CVNE’s “Imperial” marque is among the most revered wine brands in Spain—and for good reason. It was first produced in the 1920s; named after a special bottling for the English market which came in a size called ‘Pinta Imperial’ or ‘Imperial Pint’ (approximately half a liter). It is bottled solely at the Reserva and Gran Reserva level and is sourced from vineyards around Villalba and Haro in Rioja Alta. It is produced only in exceptional vintages and is known epecially for its elegance as well as its consistant high-quality and ageworthiness. Low yields; hand harvesting; careful selection of the healthiest and ripest grapes; and aging in American and French oak are all part of the recipe for this true Rioja classic. The 1996 “Imperial” Gran Reserva is deep, beautiful, clear ruby in color. Now, nearly nine years after harvest, this impressive wine is finally starting to unwind. The bouquet displays lovely notes of chewy cherry, inky blueberry, tarry raspberry and soft strawberry. There is a profusion of secondary aromas including toasty oak, saddle leather, loamy dark soil, coconut, nutmeg spice and hints of bacon and licorice. On the palate, ripe, jammy berry fruit starts the rich but elegant attack. Notes of blackberry compote, blueberry and plum fill out the dense, yet elegant middle. Nuances of milk chocolate, cherry pit and minerality add complexity. The balance is superb, with well-mannered acidity adding lift on into the long, soft, juicy finish. Like most traditional Rioja it will pair beautifully with all manner of continental, red meat dishes, yet will easily adapt to game fowl and other lighter fare. This classic wine is destined to satisfy now or in decades. Chris: ’03 Basa Rueda Blanco, Verdejo $8.99 Telmo Rodriguez is one of the top winemakers working in Spain today, and a sign that his reputation is on the rise is that he was one of five "Superstars of Spanish Winemaking" featured in a press event sponsored by Wines From Spain/Trade Commission of Spain at Thomas Keller’s tony Manhattan restaurant, per se. The other four winemakers honored, Alejandro Fernandez, Sara Perez, Mariano Garcia and Carlos Falco, are already luminary winemakers in Spain, and one could easily make a strong case for the group being considered with the best winemakers in the world. Telmo is from Irun, near the French border in the Basque country. People from this part of Spain are fierce individualists and are often known to identify themselves as Basque before Spainard. His formal training began at the University of Bordeaux, where he earned a degree in enology, and he worked for Bruno Prats of Cos d'Estournel for some years before working with Rhône Valley winemaking icons August Clape and Gerard Chave in the Rhône Valley. Telmo was then winemaker at his family’s winery, Remelluri, for a few years before he left in 1994 to form his own company, Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez, along with associate Pablo Eguzkiza. With their company, the two men have put focus on studying the skins of different varietals and the stages of growth during the life of the vine. Today, Telmo’s company has properties in eight different D.O. regions including Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, Rueda, Cebreros, San Martin de Valeiglesias, Alicante, Cigales and Malaga and his busy schedule shuttling between these regions has earned him the reference "driving winemaker." Telmo’s two limited-production wines, the Rioja Altos de Lanzaga and the Ribera del Duero Matallana have been placed among the finest wines made from their respective D.O. regions. Like his friend Peter Sisseck of Dominio de Pingus, Telmo is a proponent of natural winemaking that begins in the vineyard with ancient vines, extremely low yields, concentrated fruit and very careful choices in winemaking. Like Mr. Sisseck, Telmo is an advocate of biodynamic methods and sustainable farming that will promote biologically healthy soils and vines. He does not consider himself a "flying winemaker" (i.e. Michel Rolland) who works with the same varietals the same way in different regions of the world, but rather a patient winemaker who painstakingly learns the specific details of a given region, its soils, microclimates, grape varietals and vines so that his wines can be the truest expressions of their place of origin. The 2003 Basa Rueda Blanco is a zesty blend of Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc and Viura, and each grape varietal brings different strengths to the medley. The fresh, super-clean fruit and snappy acidity of Verdejo, the floral, clover aromatics and mineral flavors of Sauvignon Blanc, and the fuller more earthy palate of Viura (a white grape usually used in Rioja) combine in a wonderful vinous symphony of very appealing proportions. Pear and orange blossom aromas have honey traces, and a suggestion of steel. On the palate, thereÕs an appealing glycerol quality, along with flavors of honey, ripe, tart white peaches and tangy mandarin oranges. The 2003 Basa Rueda Blanco has an acidity that elongates its flavors in the mouth, and ends in a long, cleansing finish. Pair this wine with turkey cutlets and sage in a white wine sauce, chicken or veal cutlets with sage and prosciutto, and most any deep-sea or fresh-water fish. Given the wine’s value for money, this sexy summer white makes an ideal choice for case purchase, so you won’t sweat spring and summer barbeques, family dinners, parties or plain-old sipping while you watch Bobby Flay grilling on The Food Network.

Patrice: ’02 Castle Rock Carneros Pinot Noir $8.99 The mission statement at Castle Rock is to "produce and sell the highest quality premium wines at affordable prices". The owner, Gregory Popovich, has accoplished this with great success (....hey sometimes those MBA degrees pay off!). He runs Castle Rock very efficiently, with a modest promotional budget, and lets the quality of the wine speak for itself. The 2002 Castle Rock Pinot Noir is a testament to Gregory Popovich's efforts. The ruby red color is a prelude to the raspberries, candied fruit and white pepper on the nose. On the palate bright cherry fruit and spice intermingle with a pleasant balance of tannin and acidity. The finish is fleshy and tasty. This wine is a huge winner on the price to quality ratio barometer...but better than that, it is delicious! Enjoy it with roast chicken or light pasta dishes. Sam: ’04 Marquis Philips Southeastern Australia white, Verdelho “Holly's Blend” $8.99 The winery called Marquis Philips was born in 2000. It is a collaboration between the celebrated Australian winemaking couple of Sarah and Sparky Marquis and Dan Philips, of importer The Grateful Palate. The idea behind the winery was making the wine of exceptional quality that the Marquis's are known for at affordable, everyday wine-drinking prices. The first range of wines created were for a Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Sarah’s Blend, made from the previously listed two varietals plus the less celebrated (but equally exceptional) Merlot. Developing a unique, vineyard water-deficit management program to maximize the complexity and enrich the grapes, the wines of Marquis Philips are meant to be either consumed young, aged for the short term, or, as in the case of the highly allocated “S2” Cabernet Sauvignon, the “9” Shiraz, or the “Integrity” blend, aged for over a decade or more. Every vintage since the 2000 release of the Marquis Philips portfolio has produced great wines which many Aussie wine lovers, yours truly included, have made a point of drinking and enjoying! The Holly’s Blend, originally designed as a Verdelho and Semillon blend has in the last few vintages become a solid, 100 percent Verdelho (an Aussie version of the Spanish Verdejo grape). It is the least celebrated wine of Marquis Philips, but certainly one that some of my co-workers in the past have enjoyed immensely in the past. I myself am no great lover of Aussie whites but decided to try a bottle on a friend’s recommendation. However, it is the wine itself that made me stand up and applaud. The aromatics here are pretty, with vague hints of almond and ripe peaches. Clean and crisp, it sings of honeydew, key lime, pear, with hints of white pepper and grapefruit lingering on the finish. This is an excellent wine to pair with pasta primavera, shellfish, or chicken al pesto. A bravo is in order for the Marquis Philips team...your white may not get the attention of your reds, but especially at the price, this is quite a diamond in the rough. Cheers. Dominique: ’02 Château Mouton Bordeaux Supérieur $12.97 Mouton… most wine novices have heard of this famous name from Bordeaux because of the first growth from Pauillac: Château Mouton Rothschild. But do you know Château Mouton? Probably not. So let me introduce you to this not-so-unknown property. Château Mouton is a small estate situated in Lugon, a little village to the northwest of Saint-Emilion. It belongs to Jean-Philippe Janoueix who bought it in 1997 and brought it back to life. Designated “Bordeaux Winemaker of the Year 2003,“ this talented winemaker is also the proud owner of Château de Chambrun (Lalande de Pomerol), Château La Confession (Saint-Emilion Grand Crus) and Château le Conseiller (Bordeaux Supérieur). The existence of Château Mouton can be traced to 1881 in an official newspaper called le Féret. However, upon visiting the Château, one notices the architecture and huge fireplace characteristic of the time of Louis XIV, which lends credence to the importance of this estate during the XVII century. Roman ruins found on the property indicate cultivation of the vine going back to those times as well as recognition of the quality of the terroir, which benefits from the exposition of the land and its nearness to both the ancient Roman roadway and the Dordogne River. The estate slumbered into the beginning of the 20th century until its rebirth in 1997. Château Mouton is proof that very good wine can be made in lesser appellations. It is an up-and-coming Bordeaux Supérieur to keep an eye on. The 2002 Château Mouton is a very nice, concentrated effort from Jean-Philippe Janoueix. Once again, his talent shows in the bottle. The nose presents appealing floral and fruity aromas, including scents of cherry, violet and ripe berries with a touch of oak and a hint of smoke. The palate presents the same flavors with good balance, a delicate structure and subtle finish. This medium-bodied wine is smooth, juicy and ready to drink now, but will benefit from 2-3 more years bottle ageing to be at its best. As an aside: in 1853, Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild appended his name when he bought the ancient Pauillac estate of "Brane-Mouton" and renamed it "Mouton Rothschild". Even though Château Mouton has carried the name for more than 150 years, rumor has it Mr. Janoueix may be forced to change the name from "Château Mouton" to "Château La Croix Mouton" starting with the 2004 vintage. L.A.: ’04 Feudi dei San Gregorio Sannio Bianco, Falanghina $10.99 Falanghina is one of Italy’s oldest varieties and has consequently, enjoyed the privilege of time to adapt to the viticultural conditions of Italy’s south. Complemented with the volcanic-rich soil of Campania, it is no wonder that this variety is an elegant and distinctive reflection of its terroir. Currently, Falanghina is the region’s fastest spreading white variety. Feudi di San Gregorio, which currently makes Italy’s most famous Falanghina, was founded only in 1986. Yet, its decade-old efforts can be credited for the modern-day reputation of this almost-forgotten grape variety. The estate’s Falanghina comes from vines that are at least 20 years old, from a cluster of hillside vineyards at altitudes between 1,000 to 1,300 feet, harvested two to three weeks later than others, fruit is transported in refrigerated trucks to the cellar to prevent untimely fermentation, grape bunches are individually selected to discard the bad ones, only from the first-press juice, and cold-fermented entirely in stainless steel. The wine captures only the pure, complex, unadulterated expression of the fruit. And it is a knockout. The wine’s color is lemon-yellow at the core with a golden rim offering a complex nose of honey, pineapple, banana, quince, pear, and minerals. The palate is medium-bodied, supple, lush and lifted by beautiful minerality that seems to allow all the other flavors to come through: pineapple, papaya, banana, quince and pear. A nice, zippy acidity hovers in the background keeping the wine balanced. A spicy, honeyed minerality lingers on the finish. Serve as an aperitif or as a complement to Asian cuisine, any seafood, risotto, and grilled vegetables. As for me, I just poured myself a glass of this Falanghina, sipping while awaiting delivery of my toro sashimi. And did I mention, I’m outside in my garden, taking advantage of this week’s unseasonably warm weather, a glass of Falanghina in one hand and the thought of rich, buttery-textured fish building—a vision of spring.