June Staff Picks

Don: ’01 La Fiorita Lamborghini Umbria Italy “Campoleone” $69.99 I turned 40 this year. I have a beautiful wife and son. I have a pretty good job, I live in a pretty nice neighborhood and I drive a Subaru. I don’t get out as much these days as I used to (he is a 2 year old) and I don’t talk to my buddies as much as I’d like to either. The hair is pretty much gone as well. Is this temporary or is this my life? Is this what they call a mid-life crisis? There is only one thing left to do.Lamborghini baby! As much as I would love to zip around town in one of those 200mph/$200K machines the Lamborghini that I’m referring to is the super sexy, super Umbrian wine produced at the "La Fiorita" estate that was purchased by Ferruccio Lamborghini, owner of the famed car company in 1971. The cost…$69.99 baby! This wine called Campoleone Rosso is a 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Merlot and has big raspberry and red currant fruit with a beautifully smooth as velvet texture. Yes, there are tannins but they are sweet and integrated with its abundant sweet fruit. On a personal note the wine has an overall sense of grace and elegance and great palate presence with a staggering bouquet of roasted espresso, smoke, blackberries, plums, cassis, minerals and spice. This wine is the epitome of Tuscan elegance (even though it’s Umbrian) with the power of the great Italian sports car that bears its name. The Lamborghini family started producing wine at "La Fiorita" in 1975, but it was in the mid 90’s when famed winemaking consultant Riccardo Cotarella entered the picture that quality turned upward. A new blend, a new barrel program and a major drop in yields all led to the new world class Campoleone Rosso. The wine is vinified in tank and spends 12 months in all new Nevers and Allier barrels. It has the ability to improve for up to fifteen years yet it has a sexy, "drink me now" personality, and unlike say… Sophia Loren, it’s way more accessible. A pounded veal chop Milanese with rucola and shaved parmigiano or steak ala Fiorentina are the type of food that comes to mind. Sexy and substantial, these are the kinds of dishes that not only stand up to a wine like this but also do it proper justice. That’s my recipe for the mid-life crisis and about as close as anything with the name Lamborghini on it that I’ll probably ever get to. I’d probably step on the gas to hard and drive it into a tree anyway…or poke my eye out. Justin: ’01 Bodegas Palacio Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Crianza $9.97 The 2001 Bodegas Palacio, Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Crianza is an unbelievable Rioja value featuring loads of ripe fruit flavors in a lively, well-balanced package. In fact, it was the winner in a recent blind taste-off of under $20 Rioja reds. And to top that off it was also one of the least expensive of the group. Bodegas Palacio was founded in 1894 by Cosme Palacio in the beautiful and quaint, medieval, walled city of Laguardia in the Rioja Alavesa. The Cosme Palacio y Hermanos line dates back to the early 1900s. It was re-styled in 1987 as part of their leading efforts to resusitate the somewhat tired image Rioja developed during the 1970s and 1980s, a period of expanded production and numerous lighter-styled, sometimes worn out wines. Their "Nueva Rioja" philosophy was and is for strict grape selection; long and slow macerations; and aging in new French oak barrels. The acquisition of the winery by the Hijos de Antonio Barceló group in 1998 lead to further modernization of the winery and the creation of an attractive winery-hotel, which is perfect for visits to Rioja Alavesa. The 2001 Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Crianza is an outstanding effort, reflecting the quality of the vintage. The wine is 100% Tempranillo and the color is a medium-deep ruby. The initial aromas feature jammy raspberry-strawberry and sour cherry notes with hints of smoke, oaky vanilla, spices and flinty minerality. On the palate the attack is juicy and jammy with cherry and strawberry notes. The mid-palate is lively and easy-going; so well integrated that the density of fruit underneath catches you by surprise. The sweet tone of the fruit flavors is accented with nuances of leather, spice and tobacco leaf. The tannins are fine and ripe with a dry edge which is masked by a harmonious and fruity finish. Overall it's a pleasure to drink and a steal for the price. Move quickly on this one. We have been begging our supplier for more but what we have now looks like all she wrote. Chris: ’03 Thomas Labaille Sancerre, Chavignol $17.99 A summer visit to France’s Loire valley is a treat for the senses and a tremendous tonic for the harried spirit. The intensely bright colors of trees and foliage and the beautiful aromas of green pasture, wild flowers and hay fields form a visceral balm that puts you in touch with basic sensations of pleasure you tend to miss in the rush of a normal workday. Along the Loire River, picture-postcard perfect little towns like Chinon, Orleans, Blois, Chambord and Tours are treated like polished, precious stones by their citizens because every time you turn your head there’s another immaculately groomed flowerbox or garden spilling over with multi-hued blooms in the middle of a town’s circulation (traffic circle) or in the town square. The fastidiously kept streets (litter is an extreme rarity) are indicative of a fierce pride that the locals have for their land. No one is more proud of their land than the winemakers of Sancerre. Many growers in France feel that the best wines of Sancerre come from the town of Chavignol. In Chavignol, an old-vines site named "Les Monts Damnés" has been called Sancerre’s most prestigious vineyard. Jean Paul Labaille has been the winemaker at Domaine Thomas-Labaille for the past few years, since he took over from Claude Thomas, who retired while in his seventies. Jean Paul has learned all the best traditional methods from Claude (aging the wines in large concrete and stainless steel vats and used, 2 to 3 year-old barrels instead of new barrels to not unduly flavor the wines with wood, aging the wines on the lees, and bottling the wines without filtration), including spending lots of time tending to the vineyards. The 2003 Thomas Labaille Chavignol Sancerre is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes grown on steep vineyard slopes of well-drained chalk and slate soils with good exposure. The 2003 Thomas Labaille Chavignol Sancerre is a very evocative wine. In the glass it is a clear story of the forests and woods where it comes from. With sharply aromatic white flowers, chalk and notes of lime, comes unmistakably ripe aromas of peach and tart nectarine. In the mouth, the sweet ripe fruit becomes white pear/pear syrup and the fruit is framed by mouth-puckering, tangy acidity, along with a mineral note of wet stones. This is a knockout of a Sancerre. This is a perfect, refreshing white wine for lighter spring and summer fare and pairs well with tuna Nicoise or roast chicken with thyme as well as with traditional Sancerre pairings like fresh-water fish and ocean shellfish.

Patrice: ’02 Landmark Chardonnay “Overlook” $18.97 When I’m looking for a moderately priced California Chardonnay that is elegantly styled I always reach for my perennial favorite, the Landmark Overlook. Named in the "Wine Spectator Top 100" for five of the last six years this wine is not a flash in the pan. It has also traditionally received high marks from Mr. Parker. The 2002 Overlook received a "91"point score. Ratings a side this is a lovely wine that subtly displays the rich taste of Sonoma and Monterey Chardonnay without being overblown. The 2002 Overlook has a hue of golden straw in the glass with a nose of honeysuckle and pineapple. On the palate, the tropical fruit is lush and creamy without being overripe. The unique blending of the wine (…the 2002 Overlook is a blend of grapes from 25 vineyards encompassing a wide range of vine ages and 3 different sites that include 82 % from Sonoma County, 12 % from Monterey County and 6% from Santa Barbara) is complemented by barrel fermenting in the finest French oak, ageing sur lie for 8-10 months and being bottled without filtration. The gentle toastiness and decent dose of acidity give the wine lift, something often lost in over extracted New World Chardonnays. The finish is persistent and satisfying. Always great with shrimp dishes it is also my wine of choice for an easy Sunday night dinner consisting of chicken roasted with garlic and lemon accompanied by crispy potatoes. This is my definition of "a sure thing". Sam: ’02 Bogle Estate Vineyards Petite Sirah “Phantom” $15.99 Last year, I happened upon a gem of a wine, recommended by a customer of mine, by the name of Phantom. It was definitely one of the best values of the year, the 2001 Bogle Phantom, and quickly sold out, leaving myself (and many others) searching in vain for more! So when (finally!) our distributor told us that the 2002 vintage had arrived, I jumped at the chance to try the wine again, hoping for the same succulent joy that the 2001 had provided. The Bogle Estate Vineyards, founded by the father and son team of Warren and Chris Bogle in 1968, happens to have a knack for making excellent value wines, most of which we sell here for $10 or less. Today, this winery sprawls across 1,200 acres along the Sacramento River delta region. Run by Patty Bogle (the late Chris’ wife) and their children, the family’s hands-on approach to winemaking has worked towards their fine reputation, especially with wines such as the Old Vines Zinfandel, Petit Sirah, Merlot, and Chardonnay. The 2002 vintage of the Bogle Phantom is a fine assemblage of 56 percent Petit Sirah, 41 percent Old Vine Zinfandel, and 3 percent Old Vine Mourvedre. The shadowy and quite artistic label is a trademark of the wine, betraying the Scottish origin of the winemakers’ own name. The swish of wine arriving at the beginning of your glass will immediately entrance you: the deep, vivid royal purple color of the wine, combined with heavenly aromas of cedar, cranberries, and a hint of French toast, quite an interesting mix indeed! The sweet, sweet fruits in the 2002 vintage just were so good, I could not help but compare it to the 2001, and I am just in love with the 2002 after trying it. A mouthful of strawberry, cinnamon, and vanilla greet the taste buds so forcefully, giving way at mid-palate to a delightful blend of currants, dark chocolate, and pepper, with layers of glycerin and a long, toned finish. Wonderful acidity and just amazing, this is truly well worth the wait. Truth be told, I expected to be disappointed, especially considering how superb the 2001 Phantom was, but now I believe the 2002 may be even better. However, one must judge for one’s self, as we were able to find more of the 2001 vintage and now—at the time of this writing—have both in stock. Compare and savor this fleshy, full-bodied offering at your next barbecue or at home now with a rich cut of rare beef with potatoes and asparagus. Just feel the flavor of the wine and the beef meld together in your mouth, it is just heavenly. Cheers. Dominique: ’01 Château de Figuières Côteaux du Languedoc “Cuvée Louis“ $12.99 French wines lovers tired of high priced Bordeaux and Burgundy wines can rely more and more on Languedoc as one of the appellations where they can find aromatic, flavorful, inexpensive concentrated value wines. Along the Mediterranean Sea, Côteaux du Languedoc is a large wine area, from Narbonne in the west to the edge of Camargue in the east. The area is so large that it is subdivided into sub-appellations. "La Clape" is the one where Chateau de Figuières is produced. Stephanie Dupréssoir, the owner and winemaker, was introduced to the art of winemaking and technique by her father who learned by Stephanie’s grand father Louis Candille. One has to realize that drinking the Cuvée Louis is drinking a bit of Stephanie’s family history. This Cuvée mixes the history and microclimate of La Clape, the quality of the limestone soil and the memory of Grand father Louis. He was a round joyful gourmet person so Stephanie chose the unusual shape of the bottle in memory of him. The label is a replica of an old style of label that she used to stick on her note book at school. Cuvée Louis is a blend of 85% old vine syrah from a 7 hectare plot (on clay and limestone soil), the best of the hill, and completed with approximately 10% Mourvedre & 5% Grenache. Due to high elevation, she harvests about 16 days later (end of October) than anybody else in the valley, allowing great ripeness, concentration, balance and especially good minerality/acidity. She is using Biodynamic and Organic methods for all of her wine. The wine was aged in medium toasted barrels for about 12 months after a maceration that lasted for 6 weeks. It was fined with egg whites and bottled with no filtration. The 2001 Château de Figuières Cuvée Louis is a charming wine. Concentrated and elegant at the same time, it is bursting with aromas of ripe blackberries, cassis and cherry, a hint of spice, some garrigue notes, and a superb floral bouquet of Syste (little purple flowers). The attack is floral and rich in blackberries, followed by a fresh, balanced and structured mid-palate ending with a lush, fairly well integrated finish lasting forever. Roasted duck breast with figs or lamb chops with honey & thyme are strongly recommended. A great wine to discover. L.A.: NV Pol Roger Brut $25.97 Champagne is a sparkling wine produced exclusively from the French region of the same name. Its marginal climate (referring to the fact that it is situated at the northernmost limit of vine cultivation), and its chalky soil seem to have magically come together to give us a very special wine: one that’s vibrant, fun, and full of personality. The house of Pol Roger was established in 1849 and remains to this day one of the few Champagne houses that is family-owned. The house’s vineyard holdings consist of approximately eighty-five hectares at prime sites in Vallee de la Marne and Cote des Blancs. The NV Pol Roger Brut is a testament to the house’s inimitable reputation for quality. It is a blend of equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier from different vineyards and various harvests. The blending ensures that the style remains consistent from year to year. The wine opens up with an attractive, pale golden color with delicate yet persistent beads. The nose offers aromas of toast, freshly baked biscuits, and mushroom followed by a palate that is full-bodied, soft, creamy-textured, and rich with biscuits, vanilla, and green apple flavors, all reined by a freshening, prickly acidity. The wine finishes long with a hint of hazelnuts. This wine is perfect as an aperitif and also superb with oysters, creamy soups, caviar, and lobster. Indeed, there is something to be said about opening a bottle of Champagne for it evokes images of indulgence, luxury, and pleasure. "The pleasure of making champagne, of offering it, and of sharing it," says Christian de Billy, a great-grandson of the founder of Pol Roger. Not only that, finding a Champagne like this at a great price lets you celebrate any time of the year!