January Staff Picks

Dominique: ’04 Jean-Louis Chave Rhône Valley, Crozes-Hermitage white “Sybèle” $19.99 There is no better time than the winter months to experience earthy red and slightly heavier white Rhône wines, especially those from Domaine Chave. Combining traditional methods with new techniques and respect for the environment, they produce some of the finest red and white wines from Hermitage. In the early 1970’s, Gerard Chave, Jean-Louis' father, bought the Domaine, slowly built the international reputation of its red and white Hermitage and gradually expanded the vineyards. From a family of vine growers since 1481, Jean-Louis followed his father’ steps, helped him in the wine making process since 1982 and finally joined him in 1992. Domaine Chave is now the largest family-run estate, outside “négociants” like Chapoutier, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, and the “Cave de Tain l'Hermitage”. They possess 14.5 hectares (1/4 Roussanne and Marsanne and 3/4 Syrah) planted on terraces around Hermitage and also own a further 1.5 hectare in St-Joseph. As Jean-Louis became more and more involved, he emphasized the quality of the soil by applying organic farming involving natural compost, indigenous yeast, careful grapes selection, minimum use of sulfites and use of a horse to work the vineyards. The result shows in its stunning Hermitages but also in its smaller vineyards like this Crozes-Hermitage white. This subtle, graceful wine is made from 100% Marsanne. It offers floral notes mixed with roasted corn, pear blossoms and fresh ginger aromas that grow into delicate, fine-limbed flavors on the palate with lifting acidity for a delightful, long finish. Pair this wine with pork loin chops or poultry in a sweet sauce. This is a terrific white with a warm winter feel. Justin: ’95 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva “904” $39.97 This is a supple and elegant Gran Reserva from top notch traditional producer La Rioja Alta. The winery is located in the city of Haro, which is in the northwestern sub-region of Rioja known as Rioja Alta—from which the bodega takes it's name. It is one of the great historic wineries of Rioja and is known for its uncompromising, classic excellence. Its top two bottlings are the “890,” short for the year of its founding in 1890, and the “904” short for the outstanding 1904 vintage. La Rioja Alta’s wines are standard-bearers of the traditional style at its best. That style is perhaps best summed up as smooth with quietly concentrated, jammy elegance, supported by a structure of lively acidity and fine tannins. The depth of these wines is not from high extraction, big tannins and opaque color, but from high-quality fruit, acidity and long aging in American oak. The classic flavor profile features strawberry, cherry, leather, cedar box, tobacco and smokey American oak tones. The Gran Reservas are built for aging in the decades. As the primary aromas and flavors become more delicate and nuanced with age, the secondary and tertiary notes help build a richer, more complex bouquet. 1995 was officially classified as excellent in Rioja and this classic and well-balanced wine lives up to that billing. Like the best 1995’s it is more elegant and approachable than its also excellent, but more brooding 1994 sibling. Its color is a beautiful clear ruby with a hint of brick. On the nose smokey cherry aromas predominate, combined with notes of dried strawberries, milk chocolate and hints of herbs, mineral and mossy earth. On the palate rich cherry flavors are mixed with notes of sweet cranberry, saddle leather, smokey tobacco, white truffle and dried strawberry and pear, which harmonize into a smooth, long finish marked by fine, soft tannins. This wine is showing superbly now and the overall impression is of elegance. It boasts enough acidity to pair beautifully with food and age gracefully for another decade. Not to be missed. Donald: ’03 Quinta de Roriz Portugal, Douro “Prazo de Roriz” $12.99 This winery has been in existence for centuries and has continuously produced high quality ports and wines that are truly representational of Portugal—its bountifully rich culinary lineage and its breath taking natural beauty. Douros are often over-looked and have been criminally undervalued for too long. However, this gem from Quinta de Roriz—with it's recent inclusion in the Wine Spectator's top 100 wines of '05 and a 91 point rating—is getting the attention it so richly deserves. The wine is a lovely inky purple in the glass with a generous offering of cassis, blueberries and stewed plums on the nose. On the palate it is richly structured with loads of ripe fruit, a slight touch of toffee, a suggestion of cedar and even warm tannins that round out the lingering finish. I had this Douro with skirt steak, mashed potatoes and streamed spinach... and it was ideal. It would also be a perfect accompaniment with leg of lamb, roast beef, stewed chicken, veal chops smothered in garlic, hearty pasta dishes and tripe. This is a hearty full-bodied red that is drinking beautifully right now and will continue to do so for the next 5 years.

Patrice: ’04 Clos Mimi California, Paso Robles, Syrah “Petite Rousse” $15.97 If you are looking for some well priced domestic Syrah you may want to purchase a bottle of the 2004 Clos Mimi “Petite Rousse” from Paso Robles. Winemakers Tim and Mimi Spear have focused their efforts on producing Californian Syrah from small family vineyards. The 2004 “Petite Rousse” comes primarily from the Rolling Hills Vineyard in Paso Robles with about 4% coming from the Brave Oak Vineyard. Tim feels that the intense fruit from Brave Oak gives the wine an extra “Northern Rhône” flair. The 2004 “Petite Rousse” is an opaque magenta in the glass. On the nose there are black currants and anise seed. This fruit forward wine is loaded with crushed berries, bacon and both black and white pepper. The tannins are firm but not overbearing and lead the way to a very satisfying finish. We enjoyed this medium bodied fruity wine with a charcuterie board of assorted sausage, pate and cheeses. Sam: ’02 Craneford Barossa Valley Shiraz $21.97 The Craneford winery, which is known throughout Australia and indeed the Aussie wine drinking world for producing a wide variety of wine (such as their phenomenal Petit Verdot, Merlot, and the celebrated Quartet) has been under the direction of John Zilm since its inception in 1978. It has thrived and become one of the finest in the region. Although Mr. Zilm sold the winery last year, his direction is apparent in Craneford’s consistant production of fantastic wines vintage after vintage. The 2002 Shiraz, from an exceptional vintage, is one of the best yet that I have tasted from the Craneford Winery. Earthy aromas of leather and resin are prominent in this dark, black-purple colored wine, with lush black fruits and spice meld into the palate. With a long finish and deep tannin, this wine would be an excellent pairing with a thick steak or with venison, and perfect with any game dish as well. Cheers. Chris: ’04 Monte Negro Ribera del Duero Tinto $11.99 I came to PJ Wine a Burgundy snob, but I must confess that now, after spending almost three years getting acquainted with the incredible wines from Spain, I’ve been converted to a Spanish wine lover. If you ask me “What’s your favorite DO region in Spain?” I would answer “Ribera del Duero” quicker than you can pull a cork. Ribera wines combine the structured fruit, high-pitched acidity, noble tannins, and mineral-influenced aromas and palate flavors of the best California “mountain” Cabernets, but Ribera wines are expressed through the spicy Tinto Fino grape (Ribera del Duero’s strain of Tempranillo) rather than Cabernet Sauvignon. Here at PJ Wine, we now have many fine “Joven” Ribera wines in stock priced from $9 to $18, and it’s a pleasure for me to offer our customers these excellent and affordable examples. Bodegas Felix Sanz, the property that makes this wine, was founded in 2000, and the owners live in Barcelona. The winemaker Joan Mila has been a family friend for many years. Joan travels to the bodega every week to oversee the development of the wine and to consult with the resident winemaker at the bodega. The property has long-term contracts with local growers of the finest quality grapes, and is in the process of planting its own vineyards. The 2004 Monte Negro Tinto shows a young, bright garnet purple color and has heady aromas of crushed black cherries, tart red cherries, minerals, herbs and wet stones. On the palate, the wine’s fruit is crisp, clean and very balanced as the tannins, acidity and alcohol exist in an elegant equilibrium. A long finish marks the end of the palate profile of this remarkably priced and well executed Ribera wine. Pair this with grilled or roasted pork, lamb, veal or beef that has been simply prepared.