February Staff Picks

Dominique: ’03 Villars Fronsac $15.97 Château Villars is located in the village of Saillans, appellation Fronsac, Northwest of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion (right bank, approximately 40 miles east of the city of Bordeaux). Since the beginning of the 19th century, seven generations of vine growers and winemakers in the Gaudrie family have owned Château Villars. Jean Claude, his wife Brigitte and their three sons represent the 5th and 6th generations. Thierry, Jean-Claude’s son, is now in charge of production and has introduced some technical innovations. In the last 20 years, Château Villars has become a true reference point, significantly contributing to the recent renaissance of this once very popular appellation. Situated on slopes facing southwest and overlooking the Isle river's valley, the vineyards benefit from chalky clay soil and sandstone subsoil, conferring elegance, balance and finesse to the grapes. Averaging 35 years of age, the 29,5 hectares of vines are planted with 73% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. Thierry and his father made sure to match the right grape varieties with those root stocks most adapted to the soil variety and the exposition of the slope. The harvests are done by hand. After a rigorous selection, the grapes are vinified in traditional cement vats. The wine of each vat is tasted throughout the month of November to obtain a perfect blend for the Château Villars, before it reaches the barrel for ageing. Since 1978, the winemakers have only been using oak barrels. The wine ages for 10-14 months with an average of 20-40% new oak, depending on the vintage. Château Villar's combines long-established tradition with modern technology to produce a great value wine that is slightly earthy, yet rich in fruit and character, with a good balance and good potential for ageing. Pair the '03 Villars with a rack of Lamb, or better yet, a grilled T-bone steak with wild herbs, mixed grilled vegetables and mashed potatoes. WA 88-90 Justin: ’01 Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva “Torre Muga” $49.77 “Torre Muga” is one of the best and most consistent of the modern style Rioja cuvées and the 2001 is an outstanding edition. With the debut of Torre Muga in 1991 Bodegas Muga set itself in the vanguard of the great wave of innovation that took off in Rioja in the early 1990s. Rioja producers were at the time faced with the improvements and increasing international recognition of other Spanish regions, particularly Ribera del Duero. In response, forward thinking traditional houses like Muga and Marqués de Riscal and an influx of newcomers like Remírez de Ganuza and RODA began to create Rioja wines in a more extracted, fruit-forward and “international” style, which we today generally speak of as modern style Rioja. From the beginning Torre Muga has been a standout of the modern style. While Bodegas Muga had the inspiration to forge ahead with the new, they also had the wisdom to continue with their traditional methods and wines. The result has been that while Torre Muga always shows great density, structure, ripe, fruit-forward flavors and barrique-aged French oak character, it also displays the great elegance and balance one would expect from a top level, classic Rioja producer—but in the broader cut of the modern style. The 1991 and 1994 are drinking absolutely beautifully now; supple, smooth, elegant, but with the youthful flush of oak now seamlessly integrated into a rich, balanced and softly fruit-laden wine. Step forward to the current release and you have the pleasure of drinking the 2001 Torre Muga, which is one of the great Torre Mugas. It is a deep, purple-tinged ruby color. The bouquet is plush with black raspberry, cherry and juicy black plum notes; accented by smoke, gunpowder and oak tones. The attack, too, is plush with plump, ripe blueberry and black cherry flavors. Excellent freshness and acidity add lift and help create great balance. Although the flavors are deep and forward, they flow elegantly on the palate. Layers of loamy minerals and hints of cured meat add complexity to the surprisingly soft feel of this big wine. The tannins are very fine, ripe and soft and lead into a very long, fresh and ripe finish. This wine is flat-out, a knockout. Donald: ’02 Chofflet-Valdenaire Givry $17.49 The Chofflet-Valdenaire estate is located in the hillside hamlet of Russily and has been owned by the Chofflet family for over 100 years. Today, the 11 hectare domaine is run by Jean Chofflet’s son-in-law, Denis Valdenaire. He produces complex yet readily accessible Pinot Noirs at extraordinary prices. The '02 Givry has a really surprising barnyard funk on the nose, which one does not normally associate with old world Pinot Noir. This gives it a really nice edge. At the same time, the nose gradually reveals more atypical Burgundian stone fruit qualities i.e. black cherry & buoyant plum tones backed with a graceful suggestion of tobacco smoke. The palate is a pleasantly dense expression of red fruits that is followed by a subtle velvety hint of oak and the slightest suggestion of the dense limestone beds found a few dozen yards beneath the vineyard's top-soil. This Givry is a highly complex and deeply rewarding wine at a great price. I highly recommend serving it with rosemary-seasoned pork loin, pureed turnips and string beans, cooked with bacon, or enjoying it while having a long conversation about the pleasure of relaxing at the end of a hectic work week.

Patrice: ’01 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja $9.99 Unión Viti-Vinícola Marqués de Cáceres, in the Rioja Alta region, was established around 1970. Over an impressively short period of time, the Bodega has developed into a very highly respected and popular producer of fine Spanish wines. Under the guidance of the famous French wine professor Emile Peynaud, Marqués de Cáceres was founded by Enrique Forner in the late 1960's. The two men had developed a fruitful working relationship in France where the Forner family was already heavily involved in the Bordeaux wine industry. They were proprietors of two châteaux. Today, the bodega is still family run, with Enrique's daughter Christina becoming an integral part of the winery's export business, which has paved the way for international success. The 2001 Marqués de Cáceres Crianza is a blend of 85% Tempranillo and 15% Garnacha. Bright ruby red in the glass, the nose is filled with the fragrant red fruit of strawberries and cherries. On the palate the fresh and lively fruit is complemented by a dash of spice and polished tannins. From start to finish, this medium bodied wine is harmonious and well-balanced. We enjoyed this bargain Rioja (great vintage + reputable producer + low price!!) with fresh pasta and plum tomato sauce. It would also pair well with pizza. Sam: ’02 Destieux Bordeaux Grand Cru $22.97 Château Destieux, one of the most charming châteaux in the Right Bank of Bordeaux, is known for its proprietor, Christian Dauriac, who creates robust, full-bodied reds. He certainly does not disappoint here. The new cellars, which Dauriac built in the late 1990s, have bolstered his wines' profile. But most important for their good reputation is their longevity and the points they get for style! I tried the Destieux on the recommendation of some colleagues, and also because, quite frankly, I knew nothing about the wine or the château. The wine is made mostly from Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a small dosage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays a dark, opaque ruby-purple hue, reminiscent of a velvet robe. Sweet aromatic scents rush to the senses; notes of cherry oak, vanilla, espresso bean, and peppery spices rise to the olfactory glands, creating a sense of satisfaction and a desire to try the newly opened wine. I admit that this is a wine that needs to breathe; I personally would wait an hour or two after opening the bottle before pouring my first glass. But oh, what a treat awaits you, if you enjoy a dark, pure, dense, rich wine full of tannin! Quite immense, with ripe, bold, spicy black fruit and licorice, with a bit of dark chocolate on the finish, which is, intense and long-lasting. The Destieux was a very pleasant surprise. I had not expected to like it as much as I did, considering that the 2002 vintage was a very difficult year for the Right Bank. I found that this was an exceptional wine for this vintage and I would recommend it without hesitation or regret. This compellingly brooding wine would make a fine choice with rack of lamb, beef Wellington, or any hearty meat-and-potatoes dish. Bon appétit! Chris: ’02 Château d’Armailhac Pauillac (Net) $21.97 Some PJ Wine customers who scan the bottles in the Bordeaux section make faces when they see the 2002 vintage on the label, but, to paraphrase that old saw about books and covers, never judge a wine by its vintage. PJ Wine owner Peter Yi recalls that this wine was clearly one of ten standouts of 2002 that attracted the attention of the PJ Wine team during its trip to Bordeaux to explore the vintage. One smell and taste of this alluring Bordeaux from Pauillac will make you a believer, bien sur! The property is owned by Baron Philippe de Rothschild and the estate comprises 50 hectares of vineyards in some very prime real estate in Pauillac: Mouton-Rothschild lies to the north and east, while to the south is Pontet-Canet. The vineyards have been divided into three parcels: "Le Plateau des Levantines et de L’Obélisque" is 26 hectares of deep, friable gravel, perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon. "Le Plateau de Pibran" is 19 hectares of gravel, clay and limestone, which adds refinement and elegance. Finally, "Le Croupe de Béhéré" is 5 hectares of gravel, and in some places it is 3 meters deep. The vineyards are planted to 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit-Verdot with a vine density of 8,500 vines per hectare. This is typically high for Bordeaux, and it is designed to encourage vertical rootstock penetration and hence greater flavor complexity. The vines are an average 47 years old and all harvesting is done by hand. The wines are fermented in stainless steel vats for 15 to 20 days before aging for 16 months in 25% new oak barrels. Annual production is about 220,000 bottles. With wild flower, mineral, herbs and dark berry aromas, the wine shows beautifully juicy, ripe plum and blackberry on the palate and a linear acidity that both helps the extremely long finish and bodes well for aging. The nose is shy at first, but with a little decanting, this classy wine blossoms beautifully. It is a lot of quality Bordeaux for the price and a strong candidate for case purchase. Our PJ score for this stunner is 92 points.