May Staff Picks

Dominique: ’01 Señorio de San Vicente Rioja Spain $34.97 Every year in April, the PJ Wine team travels for 2 weeks in Europe. The first week, we usually focus on the latest Bordeaux vintage and the second week, we explore other appellations in France or Spain (maybe Italy soon). This year, we journeyed accross Spain through Getariako-Txakolina, Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Priorat. The PJ trip once again confirmed the greatness of Rioja: sunny cool weather, friendly people, excellent food and refined wines. In 1926, Rioja became Spain's first officially-named DO (Denominacion de Origen) region. At an average 400 meters elevation, the mountainous vineyards have favorable exposures to the sun during the day and quite cool nights so that the grapes develop perfect ripeness without an excess of temperature or humidity. They benefit from a moderate continental climate, influenced by the Cantabrian Sea, the Sierra Cantabria Mountains and the Ebro River. The best of Rioja's wines, like San Vicente, stand alongside the finest bottles from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley in France, Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy and California. Rioja's winemaking tradition was developed through direct influences from Bordeaux going back to the mid-nineteenth century, which helps explain the traditional, barrel-aged, and elegant style of Rioja. The Eguren family established Bodegas Sierra Cantabria in 1958. They had been winemakers in the hilltop village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra for many generations. Over the years, they bought additional vineyards, creating a managing company for all the properties in 1990, which today includes Señorio de San Vicente, Bodegas Sierra Cantabria and Finca el Bosque, Viñedos de Páganos (El Puntido) in Rioja and Dominio de Eguren (Codice and Protocolo) in Castilla and Bodega Numanthia Termes in Toro. Eldest son and Director Miguel Angel Eguren and winemaker Marcos Eguren took charge of operations in 1989. From the various family vineyards, Marcos Eguren established the separate properties each with their own vineyards in order to keep handling and manipulation of the fruit to an absolute minimum. Señorio de San Vicente, founded in 1991, is from a single vineyard of 18 hectares called "Finca la Canoca" planted in 1985 with the indigenous and rare grape variety Tempranillo Peludo (Furry Tempranillo). The 2001 is an amazing wine that combines all the components of great Rioja: ripeness, very good concentration, balance, freshness, elegance and tremendous aging potential. It exhibits dense dark berry, ripe cherry and delicate floral aromas along with profound dark chocolate, mocha notes and hints of spice. The palate is incredibly dense and packed with firm yet refined and integrated tannins. Beautiful after 2 hours of decantation, it possesses all characteristics to benefit from another 10-15 years in bottle. A fantastic value from Rioja. Enjoy! Justin: ’05 Fleur de California Carneros Pinot Noir Rosé “Vin Gris” $12.99 This captivating dry rosé is made from 100% Carneros Pinot Noir by boutique California winery Fleur de California. The winery was begun in 1972 on a very modest budget by Francis and Kathleen Mahonney with the goal of producing world class Pinot Noir. They took their cue from Burgundy, finding similarities in the Los Carneros climate and researching Pinot Noir clones for a remarkable and painstaking 12 years to understand the variety and their terroir. Their first release was in 1987 and today they produce Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah and "Vin Gris," their rosé. The wine is a beautiful, bright, rich pink color, complemented by the very attractive label of yellow, orange and violet wild flowers on a field of creamy white. Although I rarely comment on wine labels, this one is very pretty and will add extra cachet when presented to your host at the next backyard barbeque or rooftop party you attend. The wine itself is perfect for all your casual spring and summer outings or relaxed evenings at home. The nose offers fragrant strawberry and juicy summer plum flesh scents with hints of cantelope, spice and slate-like mineral tones. On the palate it is fresh and succulent with refreshing acidity and good weight. The mid-palate expands with notes of peach blossom and honeydew melon flavors and a trace of fresh fruit sweetness, which adds richness. The finish is lively and clean with lingering white pepper and crushed strawberry notes. The wine's fruity and refreshing qualities combined with modest alcohol of 12.5% and good balance make it a great match with barbecue and other picnic fare. This is a wine to look forward to all summer long and will be remembered very fondly when the warm weather seasons end. Dan: ’04 Argiolas Costera $11.99 Let's do a bit of free association. I'll say a word and you say the first thing that comes to your mind. The word is: Cannonau. Are you thinking Sardinia? Ok, perhaps not. But now is as good a time as ever to build that associative bridge. Another word you many want to associate with Cannonau is Grenache, because Grenache is what the grape is called in France. Indeed, most people who are familiar with Grenache are familiar with the incarnations that spring from the southern Rhône Valley and from Spain, though in Spain the grape has yet another name, Garnacha. But Sardinians like to be idiosyncratic, and they'll stick with calling the varietal Cannonau. Whatever its name, Cannonau is the main varietal that goes into making the 2004 Costera by Argiolas, a wine that is rustic but balanced. The wine is 92% Cannonau, with the remaining 8% consisting of a blend of two indigenous grapes, Carigano and Bovale Sardo. Argiolas has been making wine in Sardinia since 1918. Ownership of the company has stayed within the Argiolas family, spanning three generations of winemakers. The grapes are hand-picked from their own vineyards in Sarais, Angialis and the Costera region of Siurgus Donigala, all located in the southern half of Sardinia, which tends to share its weather with the rest of southern Italy. Assistance in fine tuning production has come from wine consultant Giacomo Tachis, of Antinori fame. The nose of this wine tosses up a mixed floral bouquet with hints of roses and violets. Under the flower notes are super-ripe strawberry scents that expand into black cherry. The palate is bright throughout with the strawberry notes leading the way accented by a rare beef quality, which adds depth. The fruit and meat notes are followed by a core of dense minerals, and a note of cracked black pepper appears at the end of the palate and and carries through the finish. The tannins are moderate but present, and the acid structure of this wine is superbly woven throughout the palate, adding buoyancy and making it a great match with light tomato sauces and other flavorful, but not too heavy fare.

Patrice: ’05 Castle Rock California Pinot Noir $9.99 Established in 1994, Castle Rock is one of the fasted growing wineries in the industry with over 20% growth in sales between 2004 and 2005. The mission statement at Castle Rock is to “produce and sell the highest quality premium wines at affordable prices.” The owner, Gregory Popovich, has accomplished this with great success. Accompanied by consulting winemaker August “Joe” Briggs, he runs Castle Rock very efficiently, with a modest promotional budget. At Castle Rock they let the qulaity of the wine speak for itself by using fruit from the most prestigious areas of the west coast. The 2005 Castle Rock Pinot Noir is a testament to Gregory Popovich's efforts. The ruby red color is a prelude to the raspberries, candied fruit, rose petals and white pepper on the nose. On the palate, bright strawberry fruit and spice intermingle with a pleasant balance of tannin and acidity. The finish is fleshy and tasty. This wine is a huge winner on the price to quality ratio barometer...but better than that, it is delicious! Enjoy it as part of a spring barbecue featuring salmon burgers or grilled chicken. Sam: ’03 Bogle California “Phantom” $15.99 Bogle Phantom is one of those wines that you cannot get enough of ... or, rather, that always seem to be sold out. Having enjoyed and written about the 2001 and 2002 vintages, I have had many customers inquire, imploring me to bring back the Phantom. Alas, this particular cuvée is one that the folks at Bogle only release seasonally; thus, my advice to fans of the wine: buy as much as you can as soon as you can (I would suppose this 'here today, gone tomorrow' aspect of the wine has something to do with the name!). And for those who have yet to have the pleasure of sampling this hedonistic wine ... you are in for a major treat. Bogle Estate Vineyards, founded by the father and son team of Warren and Chris Bogle in 1968, happens to have a knack for making excellent value wines, most of which PJ's sells for $10 or less. Today, this winery sprawls across 1,200 acres along the Sacramento River delta region. Run by Patty Bogle (the late Chris' wife) and their children, the family's hands-on approach to winemaking has helped build their fine reputation, especially with wines such as Old Vines Zinfandel, Petit Sirah, Merlot, and Chardonnay. The artfully designed label, with its shadowy image, is the wine's trademark. It alludes to the Scottish origin of the winemakers' name. The 2003 vintage of the Bogle Phantom is, once again, an excellent assemblage of 59% Petit Sirah, 39% Old Vine Zinfandel, and 2% Old Vine Mourvèdre. It is a bit brighter in color than its predecessors, with a deep ruby color to contrast with the inky purple of the 2001 and 2002 vintages. Even so, the sweet aromas of cranberry, black cherry, and smoke enchant and intrigue the olfactory glands just the same! It is beautifully intense with a rich, concentrated mouth-feel, and expressive notes of cherry pie, sweet vanilla and blueberry jam. This wine is lush and concentrated, with ripe tannins and notes of tobacco, pepper, and cinnamon arising on the mid-palate. The perfect integration of the three varieties used to make Phantom, Petit Sirah, old vine Zinfandel, and old vine Mourvèdre, is felt on the lingering, 45 second plus finish. The 2003 vintage is not quite as big as the 2002, but it is very similar to the outstanding 2001. It is a massive wine, not to be confused with some of the winery's lower level bottlings. This is a must-have with your favorite red meats (grilled steak, broiled rack of lamb with potatoes, or juicy char-broiled ribs). I warn you once again to buy now; for once the Phantom is gone, it will be a while before it reappears! Donald: ’05 Château Valcombe Côtes de Ventoux “Signature Rosé” $11.99 Paul Jeune, the dynamic sixth generation winemaker and owner of Domaine de Montpertuis in Châteauneuf du Pâpe, acquired the Château Valcombe in 2000. Jeune is a tireless advocate of Château Valcombe's often under-appreciated appellation, Côtes de Ventoux, in the southeast of the Rhône Valley on the edge of Provence, and is striving to produce wines of great class and complexity. Paul Jeune is a loyal traditionalist, but he brings modern wine-making advances to this rugged appellation in his efforts to increase the quality of the wines. The terroir of Château Valcombe, situated on the lower slopes of Mont Ventoux, is one of the most majestic sites in Provence. The high elevation offers relief from the hot and dry Mediterranean summer, creating a unique climate for the vineyards. Paul Jeune oversees 23 hectares of Syrah, Roussanne, Carignan, Grenache, Ugni Blanc, Cinsault and Bourboulenc. A vast majority of these vineyards are situated on rocky, brown limestone soils covered with "galets", rocks worn smooth and round by the Rhône River. These "galets" are beneficial in two ways: first, they prevent excessive evaporation of the scarce moisture in the subsoil; second, they capture energy from the sun during the day and radiate it back on the vines at night. These factors insure ideal ripening conditions for the grapes. The difficult climate, rocky, unfertile soil, and the old vines combine to limit yields and produce remarkable quality. The vines are on average 40 years old. The Signature Rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, which are hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyards. The cellar is entirely underground, which helps both fermentation and conservation in this hot climate. The grapes are destemmed, then crushed. The skins are left in the vats for three days and then removed—leaving a bit of their lovely color behind—before the wine is fermented and aged in temperature-controlled tanks. Finally, the wine is bottled without fining or filtration. The '05 Signature Rosé has a lovely floral nose that also offers up ample amounts of classic strawberry jam and rich ripe black cherry notes. The palate is quickly coated with elegant rich berry flavors, complex hints of rustic herbs, a touch of tar and round mineral tones that are carried by moderate acidity. This is a lovely and refreshing glass of wine and is perfect with warm onion tart, grilled chicken, pulled pork, and even braised lamb.