November Staff Picks

Dominique: ’04 Bodegas Artadi “Viñas de Gain” Rioja $20.97 Last April, when Peter, Justin and I visited Rioja to taste the 2004 vintage, we were astonished by the quality of the excellent wines from López de Heredia, CVNE (Viña Real, Contino, Imperial), Muga, Marqués de Riscal and particularly Artadi. Founded in the mid 1980’s, Bodegas Artadi started as a co-operative based on vineyard holdings around Logroño. Juan Carlos López de la Calle, a talented winemaker, bought the company in the early 1990’s and has been increasing the quality of their output ever since. Located at the entrance of the walled town of Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa, Bodegas Artadi owns some of the best high altitude vineyards in the area. Even though it is much younger and less established than the other wineries listed above, Artadi produces some of the most sought after wines from Rioja. Artadi’s 70 hectares of vineyards encompass 85% of Tempranillo and 15% of Viura (and a touch of Macabeo). The vines' average age is 35 years but some exceed 75 years. Due to the terroir's predominantly chalky soil, the wines of Artadi are rich, refined and structured. They offer a very good ripeness, delicate minerality and excellent balance. Juan Carlos López de la Calle and his son, who studies winemaking in Bordeaux, produce a wide range of superb Rioja wines at Artadi: Rioja Blanco, Tinto Rioja Joven, Viñas de Gain Crianza, Pagos Viejos Reserva, Grandes Anadas and Viñas El Pison. He also produces great Garnacha based wines at Artazu in Navarra (Artazuri, Santa Cruz,) and Monastrell based wines at El Sequé in Alicante. 2004 Viñas de Gain is a fantastic edition of this full and fruity Rioja and indicative of the outstanding quality of the vintage. It has a deep purple color in the glass. On the nose, it offers a sexy combination of dark cherry, ripe strawberry and raspberry aromas with floral and mineral nuances. The palate is gorgeous, plush and velvety with the same fruit flavors as in the nose, framed by a very good balance, chewy tannins, polished oak tones and a nice touch of acidity to add freshness. Juan Carlos has crafted a remarkable wine, which expands nicely on the mid-palate with layers of complexity and a seamless finish. Enjoy it now or, if you can wait, cellar it for at least another 3-5 years. Donald: ’05 Theo Minges Scheurebe Spätlese $16.99 Theo Minges is the mastermind behind this mineral driven, lees saturated and super extracted Scheurebe Spätlese. He is a legend in the Pfalz and German wine-lovers the world over clamor for his gems. This Spätlese is an absolute fulfillment of all the promise and hype that the ’05 vintage has generated. On 15 hectares in the heart of the Pfalz, which was blessed with a warm growing season in ’05, this limestone and heavy chalk based soil trapped ample amounts of moisture for the vines to thrive on and in turn they imparted a generous dose of minerality to the wines. A late harvest (mid-November!) generated an almost unheard of dense tropical sweetness to this Scheurebe. The minerality and buoyant acidity on the middle and back palate carry the fruit gracefully all the way along to the elegant silken finish. Lavender, quince paste, sage and bananas coat the palate and are greatly enhanced by the wine’s cool chalky mineral tones. The acidity and mineral components on this explosive white do more than check the ample fruit. They create a dynamic duality making this a highly complex and deeply rewarding Spätlese to pair with a host of spicy Thai dishes, roasted pork, traditional German and Austrian cuisine and a heart-clogging plate of fried chicken, macaroni and cheese and biscuits, which is how I enjoyed it.

Patrice: ’04 Ridge Zinfandel “Three Valleys” (Net) $13.97 If you are a fan of Zinfandel you are most likely familiar with Ridge Wines. The history at Ridge dates back to the late 19th century when the first vines were planted at the Monte Bello site in the Northern Santa Cruz Mountains to create what would later become one of the most legendary Zinfandel vineyards in the country. As Ridge expanded over the years by purchasing other sites, they have become known as one of the finest producers of single vineyard Zinfandel in the country with well regarded bottlings from Monte Bello, Pagani Ranch, Geyserville and Lytton Springs. In 2001 Ridge Wines took an additional step and produced one of their first blended wines using fruit from a number of vineyards. Labeled “Three Valleys”, this wine is a true representation of the talented wine making team at Ridge. The 2004 Three Valleys is a deep magenta in the glass. On the nose are fragrant blackberries and currants with hints of chocolate and leather. The fruit, sourced from five top vineyards, is rich with jammy black fruit laced with licorice and black pepper. Lush, but not sweet, the wine has solid tannins and a spice driven finish. Extend your barbecue season and try this wine with pulled pork sandwiches or other “low and slow” Q. A great value, don’t miss this one before my husband makes me buy the rest of PJ’s supply. Sam: ’03 Château Fonroque St. Emilion Grand Cru $20.97 A Grand Cru Classé according to the latest St. Emilion classification in 1996, Chateau Fonroque’s history dates back to 1930, when the property was purchased by Jean Moueix. His son, Jean-Pierre Mouieux, was founder of the négociant company that took his name and continues to flourish to this day, buying and running several other Right Bank châteaux, including Château Petrus in Pomerol, run by Christian Moueix. In the meantime, his first cousin once removed, the dynamic and talented Alain Moueix, owns and runs Château Fonroque along with Château Mazeyres in Pomerol. Alain Moueix uses many biodynamic viticulture techniques at Château Fonroque. The grand vin of the Château, of which there are only 6000 cases produced annually, is in fact made using only organic farming methods without pesticides or preservatives. Made from 67% Merlot grapes and 33% Cabernet Franc, the 2003 Fonroque was aged in French oak barrel, of which about thirty percent is new, for 18 months before fining. One of the sleepers of the vintage from the Right Bank in my opinion, the ’03 Fonroque shows tremendous potential. Wisps of boysenberry jam and black spices dominate on the nose, which is still somewhat closed but opens up after an hour or so. The wine itself is well-structured, with beautiful earthy notes, subtle black fruits, and smooth, velvety tannins. This wine needs some time for decanting or even letting the bottle breathe for a few hours. After that, this “flower” of a wine will open its “petals” and blossom beautifully! Dan: ’05 Claiborne and Churchill Edna Valley Pinot Noir $19.49 Claiborne and Churchill is an Edna Valley wine producer specializing in dry white wines, particularly Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, crafted in a traditionally Alsacian style. If you’ve ever had any of their wines, or are a fan of traditional style Alsacians, you know this means their wines are crafted with balance and attention to detail; in essence, they are made with a focus on the fine features of the varietal. This approach to winemaking works well with other varietals, in particular Pinot Noir, a grape that can easily fail to make wine of distinction when mistreated. Moreover, though California Pinot Noir is exceedingly popular, much is made from overripe fruit. As a result, it lacks natural acidity, which in good Pinot Noir serves to provide structure, lift, and cuisine-compatibility. Claiborne and Churchill Edna Valley Pinot opens with a nose of black cherry and flower petal that remains fresh and never veers into jammyness. Under the cherry element there is brambly Edna Valley mountain fruit, a touch of mineral laden earth, and hints of graphite. The palate is full of focused fruit, especially black cherry notes and hints of red and black raspberry. The fruit is ample and well rounded throughout the palate, persisting on a long and elegant finish. In the mouth, this Pinot is amazingly balanced, with a perfectly centered spine of acid surrounded by plump and silky glycerin. The tannins are small and polished—the final element in this harmonious construction. Because of this wine’s wonderful acidity, it pairs perfectly with foods that are high in fat. Recently, I drank it with a heart-stoppingly beefy lasagna bolognese and found it to be the best pairing I've had all year. If you are in the mood for a more traditional combination, drink this Pinot with a ripe Epoisses or aged Cheddar.