December Staff Picks

Dominique: ’04 Château Lascombes Margaux Bordeaux $44.99 Last April when we visited Bordeaux for our annual barrel tasting of the Futures, we were astonished by the quality of the 2005 vintage and impressed by the evolution of the soon to be bottled 2004 vintage. While most of the 2004s still appear a bit closed and definitely less fruit forward than the rich 2003s and the more refined 2005s, many of the 2004s were showing surprisingly well. Château Lascombes was one of those gems and should not be missed. Rated as a 2nd Growth in the 1855 classification, Château Lascombes is located in the village of Margaux and named after its first owner, the knight Antoine de Lascombes, who was born in 1625. By the end of the 18th century, his heir Jean-Francois de Lascombes had dedicated his time and fortune to building the reputation of the estate. The château itself was built in 1867. Alexis Lichine took over the property in 1952. He renovated the cellar and improved the vineyard management, bringing a renaissance to the estate. In 1971, he sold it to a British brewer, Bass-Charrington. In April 2001, a new era began when the Colony Capital group acquired this magnificent property. They renovated and rebuilt the cellar while keeping traditional methods in the vineyards and quality has been increasing ever since. The last five vintages are arguably among the best ever produced at Lascombes, and challenge the best estates of the appellation. The confident and smiling Dominique Befve, the general director, and his team assisted by Michel Rolland, the renowned oenologist, have done a superb job. Château Lascombes owns 84 hectares of vineyards planted with 50% Merlot (surprising for a Haut-Médoc wine but not completely out of character for Margaux), 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. The grapes are hand harvested in small plastic baskets, sorted before and after destemming, and then cooled at a low temperature to emphasize the density of the color and the aromas. After fermentation, the wine is aged for 18-20 months in 80% new French barrels including 4 months on its lies. It is then racked every 3 months and fined with egg yolks before bottling. They also produce a second wine called Chevalier de Lascombes. When power and complexity meet with finesse and refinement... I cannot praise enough the excellence of this property and the level of consistency attained over the past five years (bad years and good years). Once again Bravo! By the way it scored a WA 93-94. Justin: ’01 Bodegas Bretón “Dominio de Conte” Rioja Reserva $27.99 This is a rich, elegant and deeply fragrant Reserva from the outstanding 2001 vintage. Bodegas Bretón was founded in 1983 by the Breton family and Riojan businessmen and winegrowers, making it a relative newcomer to Rioja. Their mission from the start has been to produce top quality wines. They are best known in the US for their “Loriñon” line of very well-made, traditionally oriented Rioja reds (we currently have the excellent and very affordable 2001 “Loriñon” Reserva in stock). Their top wines are the “Dominio de Conte” and their flagship wine “Alba de Breton.” My first experience with “Dominio de Conte” was more than ten years ago when I was only beginning to learn about the wines of Rioja and bought a bottle of the 1991 vintage in Spain. I was astounded that a wine of such silky smooth elegance and medium weight could carry such depth. I am not as startled today as I was then, but the same silky elegance holds true ten vintages later, although the 2001 is somewhat deeper than 1991. The Dominio de Conte is a beautiful wine, somehow akin to a Chambolle-Musigny, and what some might call a “feminine wine.” However, it should by no means be taken as a lightweight. Dominio de Conte comes from a low yielding, estate owned, single vineyard in the highly regarded Briones area of the Rioja Alta sub-zone of Rioja. It is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged 18 months in American oak (50% new) and then at least two years in bottle before release. In the glass the 2001 is bright violet with ruby hues. The fragrant bouquet offers bright, plush red cherry, crushed raspberry, violet and wild strawberry scents with notes of smoky herbs, minerals, damp black earth, bacon fat, leather and mellow oak tones. On the palate the attack is lead by bright raspberry and cherry flavors with mineral, chalk and earth undertones. The mouth-feel is silky, and the overall feel is very light on its feet, buoyed by lively acidity. The tannins are fine, round, ripe and firm and lead into a fragrant and long finish. This wine is a pleasure to drink now and will continue to smooth out elegantly over the next 10+ years. Donald: ’04 Goisot Saint-Bris Fié Gris “Corps de Garde Gourmand” $15.97 For Ghislaine and Jean-Hughes Goisot, the greatness of their wines begins in the vineyard—with organic farming. Organic winemaking produces wines with very distinctive character, mirroring the soils in which they are grown. Strict soil management stimulates the natural defenses of the vines and protects against bad weather, insect infestation and mold spreading diseases. Highly restricted yields produce intensified, character-driven wines with rich flavors. Located in the northwest of Burgundy, the cooler climate of Saint-Bris helps the Goisots produce a more refined wine with much more minerality than many whites found west of Chablis and a richness and complexity of flavors unheard of further south in the Côte Chalonnaise. The Goisot Fié Gris “Corps de Garde Gourmand” provides lovely round mineral tones with pretty white flowers on the nose and the slightest suggestion of nougat. The palate opens with perfumed citrus notes that gradually turn to apricot, then dovetail into an ample ginger finish backed by moderate acidity. Each new sip offers a new discovery in the glass. We recommend serving it with salmon and fennel, spring asparagus, porcini mushroom pasta, or simply by itself.

Patrice: Sold Out ’03 Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $17.97 It is the holiday season once again. A time to not only shop for the perfect gift but to plan a menu that includes food and wine that will satisfy and please a multitude of relatives and friends. This is not always the easiest task when choosing a wine for your holiday table. The audience may include sippers, gulpers, those with a refined palate or perhaps you have someone like my Aunt Wanda who is more than happy to have a glass of wine to celebrate the holiday...as long as I throw an ice cube into it. In short you want something with broad appeal, preferably not too pricey, that will complement one of your most special family gatherings. This holiday I am going to serve a wine from one of America’s greatest wine making traditions, Beringer. The oldest continuously operating winery in Napa, Beringer was started by German immigrants Jacob and Frederick Beringer in the late 19th century. Settling down in Napa to grow grapes and make wine they also built the “Rhine House Mansion” one of Napa’s most famous landmarks. For over a century this American winemaking legend has grown and flourished. Today the core winemaking team includes wine master Ed Sbragia, Winemaker Laurie Hook, and Jim Frisinger Vice President of Vineyard Operations. Applying state-of-the-art technology to age-old traditions, the winery has been tremendously successful at producing a wide array of high quality bottlings in every price range that reflect the Napa Valley at its best. Beringer owns numerous vineyards in and around Napa each with unique conditions suited for growing different varieties. The Knights Valley area is one of their most well known. Located 17 miles north of the winery the warm well-drained soils are perfectly suited to grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Semillon, Sauvgnon Blanc, and Merlot. The Knights Valley Alluvium Blends and Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon are produced from this area. The attractively priced 2003 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is an opaque purple in the glass with a nose of violets and crushed berries. On the palate are flavors of bright cherry fruit with secondary flavors of dried herbs, anise and toasted oak. The small percentage of Malbec adds an interesting touch of smoke to the taste profile. Combined with ample acidity and silky tannins the result is rich and satisfying. This is a wonderful well-balanced wine that will pair easily with most traditional holiday fare. Serve it up with your finest roast beef, glazed ham or stuffed turkey. Or kick back after the guests are gone and have a glass on its own. Sam: ’05 Weingut Karthäuserhof Riesling Kabinett “Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg” $18.99 In the Mosel-Saar region, Weingut Karthäuserhof is one of the most renowned and oldest names in quality German Riesling. The winery is located on the site of an old Carthusian monastery built in the 14th century; the name “Karthauserhofberg” itself means “Carthusian Castle Hill.” In 1802, the monastery and its vineyards were sold to the Raventrauch family, who owns it to this very day. For over two centuries, the family has cultivated the wine and image of Karthauserhof, its distinctive labeling, and the fresh, zippy acidity these Rieslings beautifully display on the palate! Pretty, delicate, and crisp, this Kabinett shows fragrant peach, candied pear and herbs nuances on the nose. On the palate, like most Kabinetts from Karthäuserhof, it also shows racy acidity, superb concentration and a rush of orange zest with mouth-bursting lime notes and white peach flavors. It is well-balanced with delicate, stony minerality and a crisp, long finish. This wine is a wonderful match with charcuterie, roasted pork loin studded with dried fruit or spicy Asian cuisine, but is also wonderful to sip on its own. Drink now or hold for a few years more. Dan: ’01 Gour de Chaule Gigondas $21.99 The first time I tried this wine I brought it to a small, rustic French restaurant in Astoria, Queens that was kind enough not to charge me corkage. The temperature had just dropped, and I was looking for something with weight and intensity that would pair with a gamey, beautifully fatty duck breast (fall and winter come as a great relief to me, as I can ratchet-up the fat levels and pair larger wines). I was expecting to zone-in on the duck (it had been a while since I’d tangled with this particular beast), but once I popped the cork and given the Gour de Chaule several minutes of air, I realized game and Gigondas would be competing for my attention. After the bottle had been open for half an hour, it was the wine that won out. Gigondas is an appellation in the southern Rhône, bordering Vacqueyras and Sablet. In 1971 it was elevated to an appellation controlée in its own right (that is, above the classification of Côtes du Rhône-Village, as Gigondas). The vineyards of Gigondas are located below the village itself, on slopes that run westerly towards the Ouveze river. The winery is situated in the heart of the village of Gigondas. It was founded in 1900 by Eugene Bonfils, grandfather of current proprietor Aline Donfils. The domaine consists of 10 hectares of vineyard in Gigondas, 5 hectares in Vacqueyras and Violes. 85% of the vineyards are planted with Grenache, 10% with Syrah, and the remaining 5% with Cinsault. Once malolactic fermentation is complete their Gigondas is racked into large oak “foudres” and allowed to rest for 18 months. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered 30 to 36 months after harvest. No new oak is used. The color of the Gour de Chaule is deep purple. The nose is at first a bit hesitant, then cedes aromas of game, leather, cracked black pepper, and wild herbs. After a little more time, an expansive core of cherry liquor and licorice emerges, and the game, leather, pepper and herbs can be sensed in relation to the fruit. On the palate cherry kirsch and licorice notes form a solid center, intermingling with coffee tones and buoyed by ample acidity. The peppery/meaty elements shows on the front and the back of the palate, and the finish is accented with a touch of garrigue. The tannins are a bit dusty and the glycerine level is ample, combining to make for a chewy wine. As previously noted, drink this with duck, red meat, or a heavily herbed, perhaps slightly larded coque au vin.