January Staff Picks

Dominique: ’03 Château Cabezac Minervois “Cuvée Arthur” $19.99 Château Cabezac, one of the leading wineries in Minervois, is owned by an ideal partnership of two wine lovers: Gontran Dondain, the investor, and Michel Fabre, the winemaker. In 1997 they acquired a 34 hectare domain “Hameau de Cabezac” (28 of which were in production) and started to renovate it, first by studying the different soil types, removing inappropriate grapes, naturally fertilizing the soil, restructuring the parcels and slowly replanting appropriate grape varieties. At present, the domain includes 70 hectares of which 48 hectares are in production. All the wines of the domain are produced on the basis of “Culture Raisonnée” (responsible cultivation), a mix of organic, bio-dynamic and biological methods that minimize the use of chemicals and instead exploit the natural cycles and character of the varieties and their terroir. The vineyards encompass different complementary types of terroir, the majority of which are classified as AOC Minervois. The “Plateau de Belvèze” is an exceptional terroir situated at 200 meters above sea level with well-drained vineyards planted on clay subsoil that benefits from a hot, dry microclimate cooled by the wind from the Causse hills and the Pyrenees. The “Garrigots,” another terroir, has an excellent filtering soil of river pebbles, ensuring good drainage. The “Plateau of Cazelles,” a third terroir, is situated at 350 meters above sea level and produces subtle, very well-balanced, concentrated and complex wine from soil rich in organic matter, aided by frost-shattered limestone that accumulates heat during the day and gently warms the vines at night. Made from selected Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache grapes from the best plots of “Belvèze”, “Garrigots” and “Cazelles”, this wine has been aged for 18 months in new and one year old oak barrels. The 2003 Cabezac Cuvée Arthur is a richer and broader version of the highly rated 2002 vintage, although not quite as refined. Well-balanced, smooth and ripe, the palate offers flavors of dark berries, plum and slightly spicy chocolate with delicate garrigue and wild herbs notes. The plush palate expands gracefully through the silky finish with firm yet integrated tannins, ripe blackberry notes and hints of supple, spicy oak. This is a stunning effort from Château Cabezac, which has once again excelled to deliver great fruit quality for outstanding value. A light decanting of at least 30 minutes is highly suggested. Justin: ’01 Viña Sastre Pago de Santa Cruz $49.97 This beautifully expressive single vineyard Ribera del Duero from the outstanding 2001 vintage is deep, rich, powerful and harmonious. Viña Sastre is a family run winery located in the town of La Horra in the “Golden Triangle” of prime Ribera del Duero vineyards. If the vineyards of Ribera del Duero were officially classified, Pago de Santa Cruz would be among those at the top. The name of the vineyard is little known outside the area because it has been historically used for two renowned wines, Pesquera Gran Reserva and international cult collectible Pingus. Only the Sastre family makes a single vineyard wine from this site and the result is outstanding. For more than 50 years the Sastre family has owned top vineyards in the area. In 1992 brothers Jesús and Pedro Sastre founded Viña Sastre and began making their own wines. Lead by Jesús Sastre, the winery is completely dedicated to making small production, organically farmed wines of the highest quality. They are committed to recovering traditional farming methods but at the same time avidly keep pace with the latest techniques. I visited the estate last spring and was very impressed by the passion and care apparent in every phase of production—from vineyard to bottling. In fact their very limited production super cuvée Pesus even sports a temperature sticker that indicates the maximum temperature the bottle has reached after labeling. This outstanding wine is made from 100% old vine Tempranillo from the low-production, low-yielding, single vineyard “Pago de Santa Cruz” and aged 18 months in new American oak. It is an opaque ruby-purple color and offers fleshy, bright black cherry aromas with notes of smoke, wild herbs, deep minerality and hints of milk chocolatey oak. The attack is elegant and rich with meaty black cherry flavors, notes of briery blackberry and fresh mown hay, soft oak tones and white pepper nuances. The supple mid-palate is buoyed by good acidity and backed by deceptively deep, but very fine, sweet and ripe tannins, which course into a long mineral-laced finish. This elegant, deep wine is exceedingly well-priced for its quality, and will benefit from further aging to reach its highest, layered peak. Decant to serve now with a rich, roasted rack of lamb or with a gorgeously marbled, pan seared rib steak. Donald: ’05 Olivier Cousin Gamay $14.99 Oliver Cousin is a highly talented and gifted winemaker crafting natural wine in Martigne-Briand which is a small village near the city of Angers in the appellation Anjou. Winemakers in this region of France have been crafting wine for ages. Legend has it that Saint Martin of Tours who was a Roman soldier before he was baptized, became a monk and later became the (reluctant) Bishop of Tours, was the first to make wine in the Loire. Saint Martin was not only kind and compassionate but also humble. On the day he was to be ordained, he is supposed to have hid in a barn and a flock of geese gave him away. The goose is the symbol of St Martin and is traditionally served on Saint Martin's Day. The ’05 Gamay from Oliver Cousin is a handmade wine in the truest sense of the word; farmed organically on a small hillside vineyard where he hand harvests his grapes, shuns pumps and any “rough treatment” or shortcuts after the harvest. He refuses to use any artificial yeasts, enzymes, sugar, artificial concentrators, acidification, or sulfites. He ages and bottles his wine without stabilizers, excessive filtering or sulfites. Cousin consciously chooses not to impose any preconceived notions on how his wines should taste from vintage to vintage and is always surprised by what nature gives back. Pretty ripe black cherry scents, deep notes of chalk infused black loam, damp iron ore and magnolia blossoms dominate the nose. The palate is a finely wrought procession of dark berry flavors, well-toned with a suggestion of jammy apple core. This Gamay has a lovely consistency, buoyant natural acidity and light tannins and yes, it is perfect with Goose!

Patrice: ’05 Panarroz Jumilla $5.97 A “real” wine for less than $6? Established as a DO in 1996, the Jumilla region has grown rapidly in both production and international popularity in the last ten years. Although exceptionally hot, the area is also mountainous enough to make for cool evenings. This sets the stage for the slow ripening of grapes with harvests rarely beginning before October. The region has been particularly successful in growing Monastrell (the Spanish name for Mourvèdre) although Garnacha (Grenache) and Syrah are also widely planted. Panarroz is a brand created by Virginian importer Hand Picked Selections. The wines are vinified and bottled by one of the most popular wineries in Jumilla, the Bodegas Olivares, well known for their sweet Monastrells. Panarroz was first released in 2003. It is an unoaked blend of Monastrell, Garnacha and Syrah. It became an immediate success in both Europe and the US. The 2005 Panarroz is a deliciously fruity wine and a sensational bargain. The deep purple, semi-opaque color has an enticing nose of black fruit and spice. The wine has a savory palate of blackberry jam, grilled meats with a touch of anise. The big, up-front fruit makes it a great choice to serve with chili at your super bowl party or other casual event. Sam: ’98 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Gran Reserva “Monte Real” $27.99 Bodegas Riojanas, founded in 1890 by the Artacho and Carreras families, was first organized as a bulk wine corporation, which ran successfully for some time. In 1930, the Artacho family acquired the entire estate upon the death of founder Rafael Carreras. The family then began to focus on creating bottled wines of fine quality, acquiring the vineyards of Monte Real and Albina, which became the names of the Bodega’s most renowned wines. Today, Bodegas Riojanas controls over three hundred hectares of excellent vineyards primarily located around the town of Cenicero in the Rioja Alta sub-zone, as well as in high quality neighboring areas, such as San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Their traditionaly styled Riojas are made from the classic blend of predominately Tempranillo with small quantities of Mazuelo and Graciano. The Monte Real Gran Reserva is only made in top years from Cenicero grapes. The 1998 Monte Real Gran Reserva is no exception and blended from 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano. It was aged more than 24 months in American oak and aged in bottle aging for a minimum of three years. In fact, the wine has only just been released here in the States! One of the stars of the 1998 vintage in Spain, the Monte Real Gran Reserva is an aromatic treat for the senses, with wafts of crushed cherry fruit, baked plum, and spice on the nose. The lush tannins, sweet red fruit, and fresh acidity, with a bit of spice and dark fruit on the back palate, are extremely expressive and impressive. This is a wine I would personally not mind drinking every day for the rest of my life…maybe an overstatement, you may feel as you are reading this? Maybe so, but I can say I was positively giddy tasting this wine and taking in its various subtleties and complex nature. Although it is beautifully concentrated and full now, it is also shows restraint and great promise for further aging. Bravo to a fantastic effort to Bodegas Riojanas! Dan: ’03 Bennett Lane Cabernet Sauvignon “Primus” $85.99 During a recent tasting of small production, boutique California Cabernets, I was surprised and extremely happy to find a variety of wines that each expressed distinct personalities. Indeed, in some cases the terrior was so distinct and varied it was as if tasting in Bordeaux, jumping from Pauillac across the Gironde to Pomerol. From this selection of novel wines I selected several standouts that represent distinct California terroir expressed through superior winemaking. Bennett Lane’s 2003 Primus Cabernet was one of my favorites. It showed extremely pure fruit and dazzling complexity—delivering both power and style. The Bennett Lane Winery and vineyard is situated in the northern Napa Valley, where the Vaca mountain range meets the Mayacamas range. Ripening of the 2003 vintage began slowly due to a wet and cool spring, but the weather turned a corner in May, becoming warm and sufficiently dry, with occasional high heat spikes. A stretch of warm weather in September allowed the grapes to catch up with the many days of ripening lost from the spring. Regarding the wine’s remarkable sensory attributes, the nose is super-concentrated, with a top chord of blackberry wax and rich, cassis-laden pen ink. Beneath are notes of wet rose and cigar box, as well as touches of fresh pressed blueberry juice. On the palate the wine is velvety and highly expressive, with concentrated blackberry, crème de cassis, beeswax, mineral, and polished leather. Structure-wise this wine is seamless. The velvety character of the tannins are complimented by a sleek and round glycerine presence with a firm spine of well integrated acidity. While Cabernet is a classic pairing with red meat of any kind, the elevated quality of this wine is best matched with dry aged beef, preferably prime. The blackberry wax and mineral characteristics (as well as the finely honed balance and structure) will compliment and reinforce the earthy, nutty, mineral-tinged gustatory properties of well-aged steak.