December Staff Picks

Justin: ’96 Marqués de Tomares Rioja Gran Reserva $39.99 This powerful and focused Gran Reserva is a complex expression of the very strong 1996 vintage in Rioja. Unión de Viticultores Riojanos is a small family-owned producer based in Fuenmayor in the Rioja Alta subsection of Rioja. Beginning in 1910 and steeped in tradition, the Montaña family makes classically styled Rioja. Marqués de Tomares is their top line of wines. The entry level offerings within the Marqués de Tomares line are more accessible than the Reserva de la Familia or Gran Reserva, which require time. The Gran Reserva is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Mazuelo (Carignan) and this deep 1996 is just coming into its own. This gorgeous, classic and elegant Rioja has suddenly hit that sweet-spot in its evolution and is unfolding beautifully now. One of the top wines of this small, family-owned winery, this powerful Gran Reserva tends to be tightly wound and earthy in its youth, but is now sure to enthrall lovers of traditional Rioja. The nose opens with ripe plum and black currant scents, followed by secondary notes of dried orange peel, bacon, cocoa powder, ash and spice. The palate is full of red berry flavors, a hint more orange peel, plus cocoa powder, tobacco, damp earth and leather nuances. Finishes very smooth and long with plenty of succulence, leaving you reaching for another rich, complex glass. Serve with roast fowl, lamb, beef or game. Brian: ’06 Adegas Ladairo Monterrei Godello $11.99 As late Autumn temperatures begin to fall, it is, I suppose, no surprise that white wine purchases do the same. Yet, it occurred to me this past Thanksgiving holiday that a white wine might be just the match for much of the traditional holiday fare, especially if it were a white of full body, with good structure, richness, ripe but restrained fruit and abundant minerality. Enter Adegas Ladeiro Godello 2006. Adegas Ladeiro is located in northwest Spain’s Monterrei valley, bordering Portugal. Monterrei, granted D.O. status only in 1994, is home to hot weather and deep red clay soil. It is there that Jose Luiz Vaz Vilela has been producing reds from the Mencia grape and whites from the indigenous Godello grape. The Godello is hand-picked and fermented in stainless steel tanks. Unlike some past vintages which blended Godello and the also indigenous Treixadura, the 2006 Ladairo Godello is 100% Godello. Straw colored with a hint of green, the wine has a luxurious, creamy mouthfeel. There are notes of tropical fruit, green apple and banana on the nose. Lush mango, roasted pear, apple and baking spices on the palate lead to a long, creamy baking spice and mineral-laced finish. All these luscious characteristics make the Ladairo, in my mind, a natural partner for a piping hot bowl of New England fish chowder; a succulent brown sugar and mustard glazed ham; linguine and clams, a platter of crisp fried smelt or the five other courses of a traditional Sicilian Christmas Eve. Jessica: ’05 Alto Moncayo “Veraton” Campo de Borja $25.99 Produced in the Campo de Borja region of Spain, Alto Moncayo’s 2005 Veraton is an exceptional example of perfectly cultivated Garnacha. More commonly known as Grenache in France, where it is the predominant grape of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it is not surprising that this wine may trick its drinkers into believing its origin is the Southern Rhône. An incredibly dry, warm climate, like that of a Spanish summer, allows this variety to demonstrate its true potential. Displaying a brilliant, ruby red bordering on garnet, this wine has a nose of ripe plum, brown sugar, vanilla, fig, and white pepper, with slight hints of oak. On the palate, soft tannins make this medium-to-full bodied wine incredibly easy to drink with a pleasant, mildly creamy finish. Enjoy this Garnacha by itself, as I did, or paired with just about any dish you enjoy. Easily a crowd-pleaser, and certainly priced affordably, this wine would also do well paired with hors d’oeuvres at upcoming holiday events. It should drink beautifully for the next five years.

Patrice: ’05 Ridge Vineyards “Lytton Springs” Zinfandel $26.97 If you are a fan of Zinfandel you are most likely familiar with Ridge Vineyards. The history at Ridge dates back to the late 19th century, when the first vines were planted at the Monte Bello site in the Northern Santa Cruz Mountains to create what would later become one of the most legendary vineyards in the country. As Ridge expanded over the years purchasing other sites, they have become known as one of the finest producers of single vineyard Zinfandel in the country. Of notable fame are their bottlings from Pagani Ranch, Geyserville and Lytton Springs. These berry rich wines have truly become classics of American wine making. The 2005 Ridge Lytton Springs is an elegant single vineyard Zinfandel worthy to grace your holiday table this year. A balanced composition of 77% Zinfandel, 17% Petite Syrah and 6% Carignane this full bodied wine will be sure to delight guests served with many of your traditional favorites. Deep purple with flashes of crimson in the glass, this Zin has an enticing nose of licorice and blackberries. On the palate are layers of boysenberry, plums, and black cherries that are finely accented with peppery spice and savory herbs. Secondary flavors of earth and cedar bring depth and complexity to this lush and delicious wine that is supported by fine tannins and a very lengthy finish. Prime rib, crown roast pork, or turkey with all of its trimmings are perfect accompaniments for this special occasion wine. Here is to a happy and healthy holiday! Donald: ’06 Wegeler Riesling $15.99 This famous family has been crafting stellar Rieslings for over a century—their passion and commitment to quality is as evident in their top quality single-vineyard bottlings as it is in there entry level QBA blends. As you know the test of any great winemaker or winemaking family is to craft exceptional, affordable wines in sub-par vintages, and as many of you probably know, the ’06 was just that. As a lover and tireless advocate of German wines I approached this “Pure” bottling with a healthy amount of skepticism. I shared this bottle with a group of friends who aren’t nearly as into wine as I am, I blind tasted them on it none the less, at a great BYOB Thai place in Jackson Heights, and I am happy to report that everyone there was quite taken by it; including skeptical me. It was ideal with a pork satay that we started with and it also worked beautifully with grilled scallops and a lively chicken curry dish. Vibrant notes of orange peel, lemon zest, pear compote and a touch of cassis dominate the nose and are followed by an ever so soft note of charred minerals. Great juicy raspberry flavors are offset by supple notes of stone fruit, namely peach on the palate and the fruit gets a great boost from the wine’s acidity. The finish is dry—thirst quenching—with powerful mineral notes. Adrienne: ’06 Bernard Germain “Vieille Vignes Fesle” Cabernet Franc $8.97 It’s December, a time of gluttony, well-wishing, and festive tidings; and there is probably a cocktail party or two that you are throwing or going to. When looking for a wine to serve that is earthy, drinkable and affordable, this Cabernet Franc by Bernard Germain is the way to go. The Cabernet Franc grape is a generally thinner-skinned, earlier-ripening fruit than many other varietals, because of these features, it is widely blended into other cuvées. But when kept by itself, one gets an earthy, fruity, fresh finishing wine that won't be forgotten. Bernard Germain has headed the 35 hectare estate of Château de Fesles since 1996. Built in 1070, the Château is one of the oldest in the Layon Valley. This is an old-growth vineyard, with the average age of the vines at 50 years. The estate grows Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and the fabled Cabernet Franc, in sandy-clay soil. The grapes are hand-picked and selected, then carefully sorted, de-stemmed and set to rest in stainless steel vats. In these vats maceration last for approximately 8-15 days, followed by 3-4 months of maturation on lees, and 6 months in bottle. Upon pouring this wine the deep, rich, garnet color readies you for a substantial, heavy wine, but a medium-bodied delight is what you are in for. This wine has a bouquet of dark fruit, cherries, plums, and minerals followed by damp earth and tobacco, leading through to a figgy, deep berry flavor on the palate. With well-integrated tannins this wine has a long, beautiful finish, which makes it an ideal companion for many foods. Try this with any braised meat dish, or at a holiday party, serve this Cab Franc with wild mushroom turnovers or crisp endive paired with creamy blue cheese. Matt: ’05 Mattei Piedmont Barbera $9.99 Vigneti Massa is located in the town of Monleale in the region of Piedmont. This places the winery near the western boarder of the appellation, close to Lombardy. Walter Massa, the owner and winemaker of Vigneti Massa, is renowned for his commitment to not only the tried and true grapes of Piedmont like Barbera and Cortese, but also lesser known and almost extinct grapes like Timarasso, which makes a rich full bodied white wine. He explores the true potential for these varietals on his 17 hectare vineyard plot outside of Monleale. Walter Massa is a skilled wine maker with many years experience growing and producing wine from the Barbera grape, the most widely planted varietal in Piedmont. The 2005 Mattie Barbera is evidence of his experience and love of Barbera. This wine has a beautiful bright ruby red color and boasts huge amounts of red cherry and sweet spice aromas. The nose also has an earthy note of tobacco, a pleasant surprise in a Barbera in this price range. On the palate the wine unfolds layers of ripe red cherry and hints of blueberry. This wine is clean and focused with the trademark crisp acidity of Barbera; however the wine stays balanced with plenty of body and richness. The tannins are ripe and add to the clean finish that leaves you with the flavor of ripe cherry. One of my favorite pairings with good Barbera is roast pork loin in a dried fruit sauce with sautéed mushrooms. The acidity works wonders with the pork and the earthy rich mushrooms complement similar aspects of this wine. It is elegant enough to enjoy on its own or along side hard cheeses as well. A delicious wine and a great value for Barbera lovers.