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March Staff Picks
This reputation is easy to understand considering that Maurodos is headed by legendary winemaker Mariano García of Vega Sicilia, Aalto and Mauro fame. Additionally, San Roman consistently outpaces other wines from Toro as well as high-flying cuvées from Ribera del Duero and Rioja at blind tastings I have attended. However, the number one reason we have been so eager to get this wine into our hands and our personal cellars is that it was gloriously decadent when we tried it last spring prior to release as well as in barrel the year before that. And it is even better now.
This stunningly decadent wine is probably the best San Roman ever! Even for those who prefer more restrained wines, this wine is simply compelling. Lavishly powerful and harmonious at the same time, it exemplifies the heights to which Toro can rise in an exceptional vintage. The nose begins with fresh and creamy blueberry, strawberry and plum notes highlighted with dried red cherry and milk chocolaty ice cream tones. Interwoven with the lush primary fruit is an ethereal minerality laced with hints of game, bitter sweet chocolate, wild herb, fresh roasted coffee bean and vanilla. It is ultra-vibrant and penetrating, coating the palate with fresh blueberry, blackberry and cherry flavors. Very fine mineral notes of graphite and gunflint are woven throughout and ride a wave of fruit into an incredibly long, supple finish. This is utterly enjoyable stuff.
Jessica:
While most Priorat may first seem heady and intense to the novice wine drinker, this slightly lighter style is entirely approachable. A brilliant, ruby red in the glass, closer inspection yields brick-red hues that hint at the wine’s complex multi-varietal composition. On the nose, the wine is juicy with notes of blackberry, cassis, rich raspberry and creamy minerality. Juiciness carries over to the palate with blackberry and smoky cassis, as well as licorice and spice. The finish is long with slight hints of blueberry.
Garnering 90 points from the International Wine Cellar, Los 800 is a tasty —and affordable—way to become acquainted with the wines of this great region. Enjoy!
“Bright red. Fresh raspberry and candied cherry on the nose, plus a jolt of minerals adding energy. Crisp, nervy red berry flavors are underscored by zesty minerality and gain sweetness on the finish. Very fresh and elegant, especially for the price.” —IWC 90
Amezola’s caves and cellars were built in 1800 and 1850 but at the end of the 19th century the phylloxera epidemic forced the proprietors of the Bodega to give up production. It wasn’t until 1986 that brothers Iñigo and Javier Amezola de la Mora, the great grandchildren of the estate’s original proprietor, resuscitated the Bodega.
Their vineyards include 60 hectares of clay and calcerous soil, all owned by the estate. Fermentation is done in stainless steel and the wine is aged in new American and French oak barrels for one year and a minimum of another in bottle, as is required for a wine to be classified as Crianza. We are very pleased to offer this late release, now showing beautifully. This little gem is a case-worthy offering at this price.
This is an amazing, traditionally styled Rioja for the price. The nose beams with ripe strawberry aromas that are backed by notes of cocoa powder, aged leather and hints of cedar and lightly smoked meat. On the medium weight palate there is exceptional definition and silkiness. Flavors of strawberry and cherry interweave with tones of mint and smoke and this strawberry-mint-smoke mélange continues onto the exceptionally long finish. Pair with a wide range of fare from charcuterie, pressed sandwiches or roast chicken to lamb chops or roast beef. A sensational everyday bargain.
Adam:
This stunning example of Sauternes has wonderful expressive nose of honey coated fruit, tangerine and the perfect touch of oak. A lush texture and well integrated alcohol and sugar complete the picture for an enjoyable dessert wine.
Normally I enjoy Sauterne after years of cellaring, but this wine seems to have evolved at an accelerated rate and is very enjoyable at the moment. With the excitement of the 2005 red Bordeaux (not to mention the price) don’t pass up this great sweet wine. (WS 95)
The Cantina Sociale del Produttori Barbaresco is a cooperative winery that has become famous for its wonderful wines at affordable prices. Created in 1958 this cooperative only produces Barbaresco from 100% Nebbiolo fruit and today has over 60 growers. Aldo Vacca, the president and winemaker, attributes their success to their focus on only buying quality fruit and limiting their production to only Barbaresco even though they could broaden their scope to include the production of Barbera and Dolcetto. Mr.Vacca prefers “to keep it simple,” feeling it is the only way for a cooperative to survive in the world of fine wines. The winery produces a Nebbiolo Langhe DOC (their second label,) a Barbaresco DOCG and their nine single vineyard Barbaresco Riserva DOCG…all worth trying at some point in time.
The 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco is a deep ruby in the glass with flashes of persimmon on the rim. The nose is filled with red currant and fragrant dried flowers. Raspberry and blackberry dominate the palate with hints of anise seed, leather, and a touch of oak. Full bodied and round, the wine has brisk acidity and fine tannins that lead to a lovely finish. A terrific and affordable introduction to the wines of Barbaresco, it is a delicious accompaniment for hearty pasta dishes, risotto or roasted red meats.
The Syrah grapes for this VDP cuvée come from a tiny parcel of land along the slopes of the Doux River and the vines are on average 30 years old. At the end of a cool September, the grapes are harvested and then undergo a very long maceration at a low temperature without desteming. The wine is then matured on the lees in second-hand oak casks for six months and then bottled without being filtered.
Cool climate Syrah tends to have very dynamic aromatics and this gem has one of the most explosive noses I have experienced in quite some time. Violets, bacon fat, freshly roasted coffee beans, black cherry, wet stone and vanilla bean all interplay nicely as they gradually unfurl off the rim of the glass. The palate employs many of the same flavors the wine contains on the nose, however, deep black cherry and juicy plum flavors meshed with candied violets and cool strawberry tones dominate. The tannins that gradually crop up on the finish are in the featherweight division and highlight the readily accessible fruity components this stellar Syrah possesses. Ideal with squab, Cornish game hen, roasted chicken or roast pork. Decant, serve slightly chilled and enjoy the wine over a few hours as it will evolve nicely over a leisurely dinner or a casual conversation among close friends.
One of the leaders of change in Cornas is Vincent Paris. Paris is the nephew of Robert Michel, a respected winemaker in Cornas, and together with vines purchased from his uncle and other prime land in Cornas, Paris currently owns eight hectares. Using modern winemaking technology, Paris has produced one of the most outstanding young Northern Rhône wines I have ever tasted.
The nose of this wine is extremely concentrated, complex and bordering on ethereal. Lively aromas of black cherry, blackberry and violets are followed by other notes of bacon and black pepper. On the palate, the wine is pure and precise, full-bodied but not cloying or inky. Flavors of deep blackberry, plum and black cherry move across the palate along with a wet stone minerality. There is a medium level of tannins that are superfine and ripe with high acidity, which completes the gorgeous picture that is this wine. The finish shows the potential for this wine to age, showing hints of smoked meats, earth and even a touch of leather. Ready to drink now but will continue to develop for years, this wine is a great value from a region that all Syrah lovers should know.
The ’04 Marqués de Tomares Crianza is 97% Tempranillo and 3% Graciano. The grapes are hand picked and fully destemmed. The wine is aged in American oak for one year after fermentation and for another year in bottle at the winery before being released.
The wine’s deep purple plum color in the glass hints at the rich aromatics and flavors to come. The nose contains notes of dark cherry and plum, bacon fat, tobacco, leather and vanilla oak tones. The palate of plum, ripe black cherry, rosehip and smoked meat is distinguished by its silky tannins and seamlessly integrated oak. There is a depth of aroma and flavor here that has caused virtually everyone on the wine staff to say the ’04 Marqués de Tomares is a crianza that drinks more like a reserva. And while its flavor profile tend to spell traditional Rioja, the Marqués de Tomares has a certain full-fruited lushness that is sure to appeal to the modern style Rioja drinker out there. This is a sure bet with charcuterie or roast lamb in any preparation. And if you drink it with a hearty platter of arroz con pollo as I did, I assure you there will be no complaints heard at your table.
Justin:
’04 Maurodos “San Roman” Toro $42.99
The 2004 Maurodos “San Roman” is one of my most anticipated releases of this past year. There are several factors contributing to this, one is that 2004 is perhaps Toro’s greatest vintage ever, even surpassing the amazing wines of 2001. Another is that since San Roman’s premiere vintage in 1997—at the vanguard of Toro's emergence on the international scene—it has held a firm place in the upper echelon of Toro wines.
’03 Los 800 Priorat $16.99
From the town of Gratallops in the hills of Priorat, Spain, comes this stunning entry level blend. Comprised of 50% Garnacha, 30% Carinena, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah, the makers of Los 800 require two characteristics of the vines bearing their fruit: they are at least 60 years old and they grow at or above the 800 meter point.
Dan:
’01 Viña Amezola Rioja Crianza $10.99
During the year, I taste enough inexpensive Spanish wine to fill a swimming pool, so I get to be as picky as I want when it comes to which wines to endorse. Recently I came across a Rioja, the 2001 Crianza from Viña Amezola and knew instantly that it was something I wanted to get behind. It offers great 2001 fruit, medium body, a silky texture and superb balance. And it’s a huge value!
’03 Château Guiraud Sauternes $47.97
Château Guiraud, Sauternes, is a wine that I do not drink that often but being my birthday soon (it only comes once every four years) I thought I would indulge. Sauterne is a little area nestled in Bordeaux. Situated on the Ciron River Sauternes has cool misty mornings perfect for the formation botrytis (mold) on the Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.
Patrice:
’04 Produttori del Barbaresco Piedmont Falanghina $25.99
If you have been trying to broaden your palate to include the delicious wine of Barbaresco but have been put off by high prices you may want to try the 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco. For those unfamiliar with Barbaresco it is similar to Barolo in that it is from the Piedmont region and made from 100% Nebbiolo fruit. A tiny district compared to others it includes the villages of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso. The vineyards are planted primarily with the three varietals Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera. Separated from Barolo by the town of Alba, the soils of Barbaresco, although similar in texture, have differences that manifest themselves in the wines. Variations in the micro-climates and richer soil result in Barbarescos being more elegant and refined than the more imposing Barolos…quite different from each other but both worth exploring.
Donald:
’06 Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet Hervé Souhaut Syrah $20.99
The Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet was created in 1993 by Herve Souhaut. His holdings in the northern Rhône and the southern Ardeche are a mixture of new vines and ancient vines—from 50 to 100 years old. Herve Souhaut’s holdings are minuscule, only five hectares and he employs only organic and biodynamic winemaking techniques.
Matt:
’06 Vincent Paris “Granit 30” Cornas $36.99
Located in the Southern region of the North Rhône, Cornas is currently enjoying a renaissance. This appellation went though a rough period in the first half of the 20th century when winemaking in the region slipped from being rustic to being sloppy. Many of the producers were using old oak barrels in unclean cellars, conditions that lead to unclean or musky aromas and flavors in the wine. For some time these faults in the wine were seen as the terrior and it has only been over the last 2-3 decades that winemakers have been updating their cellars and producing clean wine. 
Brian:
’04 Marqués de Tomares Crianza $14.99
At PJ’s, where Rioja is king, nothing excites us more than a bottle of Rioja of a quality and complexity that belies its very modest shelf price. The Montana family, three generation old winemakers in Rioja Alta, bring just such a wine to PJ’s.
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