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May Staff Picks
The winery’s first vintage was in 1852, but it was not until 1878 that they purchased the Ygay estate and built the winery in the manner of a Bordeaux château. The estate is located in the warmer, southernmost part of La Rioja Alta. In the late 19th century, it became world famous, winning numerous prizes at European Universal Exhibitions. Medals from those expositions can be seen on the classic, gold, orange and black Belle Epoque label of today's “Castillo Ygay” Gran Reserva Especial.
Fortunately for American wine lovers, the wines of Marqués de Murrieta are back on the US market after a hiatus of a few years between importers. In the interim they have refined a slightly more fruit-driven style, which embraces softer oak ageing for this classic Rioja house. They also chose to relaunch onto the market with some very strong vintages, including this fruit-packed and elegant 2004 Reserva.
This fantastic value maintains its traditional heritage while expressing deep, plump fruit. The nose is replete with blackberry, red cherry, cranberry and minerally chalk tones, plus just a hint of fresh tobacco leaf. On the palate it is velvety with rich cherry and classic Ygay orange peel notes that intermingle with chocolate and mineral tones. Overall the wine is focused and lively with very good length. It can be enjoyed now with a wide variety of foods, from cured meats to rich poultry dishes or grilled meats like seared duck breast.
Once again my tireless tasting of wines great and small has uncovered a bargain Burgundy. This time it’s a Hautes-Côtes de Beaune from the excellent 2002 vintage from bio-dynamic producer is Didier Montchovet. This wine is drinking superbly right now and offers beautiful balance and fruit. Many people frequently pay more money for a Burgundy of this quality.
Domaine Didier Montchovet was first formed in 1984 and at that time consisted in ½ a hectare of vines. Since then the Domaine has grown to 9 hectares, and throughout this growth Montchovet has strictly applied biodynamic principles to his vineyards, particularly the principles developed and articulated by Rudolf Steiner in his 1924 lectures for farmers. The vineyards for this wine, Montchovet’s Haut Coted de Beaune, consist of 2.5 hectares, of which 1.5 hectares are Lyre planted. This Lyre method of planting has several particular advantages for both the wine and environment. These include allowing a strip of grass to grow between the rows of vines (this is beneficial for the soil), keeping the grapes further from the soil and in doing so exposing them to lower risk of disease, and allowing the workers to pick standing up, that is, allowing for better working conditions.
The nose of this wine is all about red fruit, with notes of crushed ripe raspberry and strawberry preserves framed by classic Burgundian tones of soil and just a hint of mint leaf. On the palate the drinker is treated to more of the same pure and concentrated red fruit that weaves effortlessly through the rich earth tones. Overall the balance between earth and fruit are impeccable, and the purity here is very admirable. I like to drink this wine with a wild mushroom country pâté, triple cream cheeses or an herby, earthy braised rabbit.
Founded in 1998 Bodegas Gancedo has been devoted to Mencía since its inception. The founder and winemaker, Ginés Fdez, became obsessed with Mencía in the early 1980s when few others were interested in the varietal or the Biezo region. He realized that in the right vineyard, made in the right facility; the full potential of Mencía could be realized. This is exactly what Ginés set out to do. He was able to purchase 11.5 hectares, of which about 80% was planted with old Mencía vines around 55 years in age, located on a southeast facing hillside around the town of Quilós. It is from this vineyard that the 2003 Xestal was produced. Bodegas Gancedo uses traditional wine growing techniques taking cues from the land and the winery is state of the art complete with temperature controlled fermentation and a 58,000 liter capacity. The result is a complex red which is a great example of what Mencía can produce with careful stewardship. This wine will benefit from decanting an hour prior to enjoying.
Packed with dark deep aromas of cherry, plum, mineral and a light smoky note the nose is beguiling and shows the depth of Mencia. Secondary notes of sweet spice, and toasted almonds rounds out the aromatic features of the wine. Dry on the palate with flavors of black cherry, cinnamon, clove and wet stone this great Mencia has medium acidity that keeps it balanced with the dark fruit and deep mineral flavors. There are more notes of black fruit and spice on the long and elegant finish. This truly interesting and complex wine received 93 points from The Wine Advocate. (AKA- get some while it is still around!)
“The 2003 Xestal is 100% Mencia from 60+-year-old bush vines and aged for 12 months in French oak before being bottled unfiltered. Dark ruby-colored, it offers a lovely bouquet of violets, mineral, pencil lead, spice box, black cherry, and black raspberry. Elegant, harmonious, sweet, and balanced on the palate, with ample silky fruit, this tasty effort has a 60-second finish. It can be enjoyed now and over the next 6-8 years.” —WA 93
Jessica:
Still relatively young and displaying a deep ruby color, the wine has notes of black cherry, toast, tobacco, and vanilla. Black fruits transfer nicely to the palate, where the wine is full-bodied with enough well-integrated tannins to keep it drinking nicely for another five years or so. I recommend having this wine handy to go with that first grilled burger of summer—enjoy!
Dan Philips is not only a famous importer but has also built a reputation as a winery owner. Today he is co-owner with famed winemaker Chris Ringland of R wines. “Boarding Pass” from Grateful Palate Airways is a delicious and popular offering that was an instant success. This delicious and terrifically priced wine is made from 100% Shiraz fruit grown on 10-15 year old vines. The fruit was grown in several of South Australia’s best wine growing regions including Kangarilla, Blewitt Springs and Kalimna. The difference in the soil types of the three regions provides fruit with varying characteristics and lends complexity to the wine.
The 2005 “Boarding Pass” Shiraz is a partially opaque shade of deep purple. The nose is an enticing fruit bowl of blackberries, blueberries and anise seed. The rich scent leads the way to lush flavors that roll across the palate with layers of chewy black fruit accented with touches of peppery spice and smoke. The silky tannins add structure and lead the way to a lengthy finish. We enjoyed this sumptuous red with marinated butterflied leg of lamb on the grill. The 2005 “Boarding Pass” Shiraz is a delicious wine and wonderful bargain…..not to be missed.
This Rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. The grapes are hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyards. The cellar is entirely underground, which helps both in prolonging fermentation and conserves the wines in the hot climes. The grapes are destemmed by hand and then crushed . The skins are left in the vats for three days and then removed—leaving just a bit of their lovely color behind—before the wine is fermented and aged in temperature-controlled tanks. Finally, the wine is bottled without fining or filtration.
A lovely floral nose that offers up ample amounts of classic strawberry jam, silken anise and a touch of cherry drop. Lemon berry flavors, mint and rustic herbs, a touch of tar and round mineral tones make for a supple, gracious palate. This is a lovely and simply refreshing glass of rose and it is the perfect accompaniment with warm onion tart, grilled chicken, pulled pork, and grilled summer veggies.
Three bottles down, the ’06 “Cuvée des Traveres” has become a family favorite. Right out of the bottle and into the decanter the perfume of raspberry jam is immediately apparent. Notes of toffee, cedar, smoked meat, and berry tea soon follow. Allowed enough time, a gentle and beguiling barnyard aroma joins the rest, making for a nose that sets this Côtes-du-Rhône apart from all the others I’ve tasted. The nose previews the juicy, thrilling acidity found in the mouth. The palate is full of fresh raspberry and dark berry character, accented by light herbal notes, all of which lead to a long berry and anise infused finish.
Summer is rapidly approaching, so don’t hesitate to drink this with chicken, beef or lamb off the grill, marinated hopefully with lots of fresh herbs. Or as a farewell-to-winter gesture, the ’06 L’Anglore would pair beautifully with leg of lamb surrounded with roasted winter vegetables.
Adam:
Dry and intense are always the first two words to come out of my mouth when describing this wine, followed quickly by almonds, walnuts, lemon, peel, a yeastiness that only sherry can posses (from the flor) and, if I close my eyes, I can imagine the sea air in the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the only place this wine is made.
It is important to treat this Sherry as a white wine served chilled on the Veranda (fire escape) with ham, Marcona Almonds and Spanish Olives, also if you want a pairing with Sushi, this will not disappoint. A note for all Manzanilla fans out there, this is a weightier style.
A final warning, sherry is not for everyone and I won’t be offended if you don’t care for it, but if you haven’t tried a dry example, please do you might surprise yourself. For more information on how sherry is produced, and the different styles of sherry, please consult our sherry primer on our web site.
Justin:
’04 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva $19.99
Founded in 1852 by Luciano de Murrieta, Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta is one of the great historic Rioja producers. As a high-ranking member of the Spanish military, Luciano lived in England in luxurious circles and became a wine connoisseur. In the 1840s, the red table wines of France were renowned for their quality and ageworthiness and those of Rioja were virtually unknown. In 1848, Luciano—later to become a marquis—began wine studies in Bordeaux. His goal was to improve the quality of the wines of Rioja, so that they would be stable enough for export and long-lived enough to be sought out by the most discriminating British collectors.
Dan:
’02 Didier Montchovet Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge $17.99
Matt:
’03 Xestal Bierzo $28.99
Bierzo is a small D.O. in the north west of Spain in the Castile-Leon region; however this appellation shares little in common with regions like Toro and Ribera Del Duero. Recently Bierzo has become known for producing fruity, refreshing reds with good acidity and a strong mineral presence from the Mencía grape. Located about 50 miles north of the northeastern corner of Portugal, Bierzo avoids the climatic extremes of the central plateau (in Spain's interior) and the Atlantic. This factor, in addition to the slate and granite based soils found in the region, explains the regions ability to produce wines light to medium in body with extremely interesting aromatic profiles.
’04 Cillar de Silos Ribera del Duero $18.97
An awesome 90 point find (Wine Advocate) from Ribera del Duero, the 2004 Cillar de Silos is comprised entirely of Tempranillo grapes grown in the slopes of Quintana del Pidio and Gumiel de Mercado. The climate in this region is generally mild and the grapes are ready to be harvested—by hand—in early October. This wine in particular is fermented in 50% new, French oak for 13 months, lending to its complex flavor composition and gentle finish.
Patrice:
’05 R Wines “Boarding Pass” Shiraz $15.99
The Grateful Palate was started by Dan Philips in 1997 in order to assemble a portfolio of world class Australian Shiraz. His philosophy has been simple from the beginning and remains the same today. According to Dan, “I only buy wines I’d be happy to drink if they do not sell”. Over the years they have been very successful in realizing this goal by building an impressive collection that includes producers such as Chris Ringland, Trevor Jones, Henry’s Drive and Marquis Philips just to name a few. Although the focus is on the southern regions of Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Padthaway, the Grateful Palate also imports interesting wines from some of the less known regions like Heathcote.
Donald:
’07 Château de Valcombe Ventoux Rosé $11.99
Paul Jeune—the sixth generation winemaker and owner of Domaine de Montpertuis in Châteauneuf du Pâpe—acquired the Château Valcombe almost ten years ago. Paul Jeune is a tireless advocate of this often under-appreciated Côtes de Ventoux AOC. Located in the southeast of the Rhône Valley on the edge of Provence, Ventoux is now poised to become a much more important factor in the wines produced in the southern Rhone and that is largely because of people like Paul Jeune who have capitalized on the abundance of natural resources at their disposal to make exceptional wines in this once overlooked and maligned AOC. Paul Jeune is a loyal traditionalist and he also he brings modern wine-making techniques to this rugged appellation in his efforts to increase the quality of the wines.
Brian:
’06 L’Anglore “Cuvée des Traveres” Côtes-du-Rhône $19.99
The history of former honey maker, Eric Pfifferling, is well represented on the PJ website. We are big fans of his wines, both the Côtes-du-Rhône reds and his dynamic Tavel rosé. A few details, however, bear repeating. L’Anglore farms their grapes and vinifies them in meticulous organic fashion. No pesticides or chemicals are ever used on Pfifferling’s scant 7 hectares of lavender and garrigue strewn old vines in the southernmost Rhône valley. Grapes are hand-harvested and fermented at very low temperatures, purposely to avoid excessive extraction, which would masque, in Pfifferling’s view, the terroir-specific character of his wines. No new oak is used, the resulting tannins being quite gentle, melting on the palate. As no sulfites are added after harvest, the wine, a deep red berry color, is faintly opaque in the glass.
’NV Bodegas Argüesto San León Manzanilla Clásica (375 mL) $11.99
Sherry - the word alone brings a smile to my face. Whether they are sweet or dry, the white or the odd red, I love them all. The one rule I have is to always drink Fino or Manzilla from a fresh bottle, so I am always on the look out for great half bottles. Bodegas Argüeso, San León Manzanilla Clásica is a bottle that I will be enjoying this summer.
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