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June Staff Picks
Bodegas Luis Cañas was founded in 1928 and is still family owned and run—continuing their family winegrowing and winemaking tradition of more than two centuries. Set in the Rioja Alavesa town of Villabuena, the winery began serious marketing of their wines in 1970 under the direction of Luis Cañas and in 1989 the reins of the winery passed to his son, Juan Luis Cañas. In 1994 they opened a state of the art winery, which was expanded in 1999. At the same time they made significant improvements in their winemaking techniques and in the vineyards they own and hold under contract. I first tried the Luis Cañas “Selección de la Familia” years back at a trade tasting. It was the excellent 1995 vintage, which was supple, refined, expressive and forward with very good aging potential. I was very impressed. Unfortunately, it was not available in the US at the time, but I happily managed get some into my cellar. Thus I was very pleased to find it available here in New York earlier this year, now in another officially excellent vintage, 2001. Deep purple/ruby in color, the 2001 “Selección de la Familia” offers rich black cherry aromas mixed with scents of smoke, spice and damp earth followed by top notes of cherry blossom florals. On the palate the mouthfeel is at once supple and plush in a silky refined manner. Blueberry, blackberry and cherry flavors mark the core of fruit that is smoothly lined with milk chocolate notes and inflections of bramble, spice, dirt and ash. Lively, integrated acidity extends the wine across the palate into a long finish. Elegant and affordable for a wine of this quality, and certainly worthy of the 93 points it recieved in The Wine Advocate. Drink this gem now, or hold for years to come.
For those of you who missed the 2001 vintage in Germany the first time around, here is your chance to get your hands on a superb bottle of wine that expresses the terroir of the Nahe and the balanced ripeness and intensity of the vintage. Moreover, when it comes to wine from the Nahe, many people only know one name: Donhoff. Given this, I'm happy to introduce a wine that is truly excellent and, though I love Donhoff, something else.
The wine is Schlossgut Diel's 2001 Nahe Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Spätlese. Among several other vineyard holdings including Goldloch and Burgberg, Diel owns 2.5 acres of the slate, quartzite and gravel laden Pittermännchen vineyard.
The Nahe region itself first took on its current form (or something resembling it) as part of the German Wine Law of 1971. It is composed of three regions of great geological complexity. Diel's vineyards are in the Lower Nahe, near the confluence of the Nahe river and the Rhine. The vineyards of the Lower Nahe tend to be steeply terraced, with slate and quartzite bases, not dissimilar to the vineyards of the Mittlrhein.
All this said, the important thing to know is that this wine is fantastic. The nose begins with notes of white peach nectar, fresh strawberry and hard sliced pit fruit plus a gorgeous perfume of lychee and rose petals that is accented by white pepper and hints of citrus zest. On the palate the wine exhibits awesome density and impact. More peach nectar is joined by tangerine marmalade and fresh squeezed limejuice plus hints of high toned lychee and a fine yet pronounced minerality. The acidity is perfectly integrated and the wine finishes long, enchanting floral and dried citrus tones.
Nestled between the great communes of Saint Estephe and Pauillac Chateau Bertrand Braneyre has been owned by the Cooreman family since 1993 and has placed nothing ahead of quality. The chateau is adjacent to a seven hectare vineyard that is planted with predominately old vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and sits on a soil of old gravel and sand. The oenologist, J. Boissenot, has worked with Chateau Margaux and Chateau Lafite Rothschild. All the fruit is hand harvested and fermented in the state of the art winemaking facility, the wine is then given new oak treatment for 12-18 months.
At first whiff the caliber of the 2005 vintage can be perceived. Dark ruby in the glass the wine offers intense aromas of blackcurrant and ripe plum with deeper notes of cedar, spice box and cocoa. On the palate the wine unfolds layers of ripe fruit including flavors of berries and currants. The medium level of acidity helps strike a balance between the richness of the fruit the underlying structure. There are good ripe tannins that carry on into the finish of berries and cedar. This is a wine one can enjoy now or hold onto for 5-6 years as it develops more complexity. This wine is a terrific value for a left bank 2005 Bordeaux and the perfect match for steak au poivre with fries or grilled lamb chops with an herb salad.
The philosophy at Allegrini has been defined by their concept of a “cru” production of wine. With this method defined vineyards are dedicated to the production of local varieties destined to become a single wine. La Grola, Palazzo della Torre and La Poja are all successful examples. These along with their classic Amarones have received applause from many of the world’s top wine critics demonstrating this winery’s continued commitment to quality regardless of price.
The 2004 Palazzo della Torre is a modestly priced offering at $14.97 a bottle that offers the consumer a lot of taste and pleasure for their money. This luscious wine is an interesting blend of 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese made in the ripasso style. With this method 70% of the grapes are picked and vinified immediately while the remaining 30% are left to dry until the end of the year. These dried grapes are then vinified and re-fermented with the other 70%. This style sets the stage for a wine that is a deep shade of crimson in the glass with ripe aromas of plums and spice. On the palate there are a lot of black jammy fruits along with notes of leather and hints of licorice. Rich in texture with moderate to low acidity the wine has a finish that is both lingering and satisfying. The 2004 Palazzo della Torre would be a wonderful accompaniment to grilled meats, risotto, or rotisserie styled roasts. I doubt you will be disappointed.
The Clos de la Cure vineyard located in neighboring Menetou- Salon— is a pristine, hillside plot of old vine Sauvignon Blanc planted on a bed of limestone. Claude Champault, a rising star in the Loire, is the deft hand behind the winemaking at the estate. This vineyard site is one of the most prized terroirs in Menetou and production is extremely limited. After a summer green harvest, the grapes are harvested by hand and de-stemmed before fermentation. The wine rests on the lees for several days before being racked off and then it is allowed to rest until spring in stainless steel tanks.
Blooming white flowers intermingle with dazzling mineral components before honeyed melon-scents gradually emerge as the wine opens in the glass and these scents highlight the flavors that initially attack on the palate with excellent purity of white and creamy melon complexity and impressive freshness. This is a medium body Sauvignon Blanc, and the crisp, mineral-rich fruitiness of depth it possesses is as dynamic as it is delicious. This gem is a perfect match with shellfish, creamy chicken dishes and hearty garden salads.
Chinon, is located in the central Loire valley, near Tours, and is well known to old-world wine drinkers for its red wines, which combine great finesse, cherry and raspberry fruit and alluring notes of grass, limestone and tobacco. Jean-Maurice Raffault's ancestors began producing wine in Chinon in 1693, and today his Cabernet Franc vines cover 40 hectares (approximately 99 acres) of soil rich in limestone, chalk and, in some sites, schist. The estate is now in the hands of Jean Maurice's son, Rodolphe, who employs sustainable agricultural principles to produce his red, white and rosé wines. Grapes are hand-harvested and each parcel of vines is vinified separately, and then blended after fermentation. The ’07 J. M. Raffault Chinon Rose is 100% Cabernet Franc, from sandy schist dominated soil.One third of the grapes undergo the saignée "to bleed" method of vinification. As juice destined to become red wine ferments--in this case, in stainless steel-- along with it's skins, a portion of this juice is "bled" off the rest, resulting in a rose-colored wine of little extraction and few if any tannins. The remaining grapes are pressed and also ferment in stainless steel.
Although it seems that the '07 Raffault rosé is a tad more herbal than the ’06, the similarities between the two wines far outweigh their differences. Notes of minerals, grass and stone pair with vivid aromas of strawberries and red cherries. The palate is addictively juicy! Succulent flavors of strawberry and citrus are framed by wild herbs and grass. The finish is long and deliciously grapefruit inflected.
The ’07 Raffault Rose is so food-friendly it would almost be easier to list the foods with which it would not pair well. Certainly, crisp fried chicken, pasta salad with fresh veggies, grilled fish and shellfish and fresh goat cheese would be perfect matches. Cheers!
The process used to make this wine is similar to that used in Amarone production where 20% of these grapes are dried on 10 kg drying racks. This practice adds tremendous richness to the wine that is evident upon tasting. Deep and dark with purple highlights, this wine lets you know what you’re getting into just by looking at it. The color evolves into a nose of blackcurrants, brambles, espresso, chocolate and a smooth finish that is long and fine. Some people would say this wine is impossible to pair with any food, but I say give me a great steak with this full throttle wine and I will be amply satisfied.
Justin:
’01 Luis Cañas “Selección de la Familia” Rioja Reserva $28.99
The release of this rich, balanced and distinctive Rioja is more great news for Rioja lovers. Bodegas Luis Cañas has been a winery markedly on the rise for the past decade or so. Their wines were only spottily distributed here in the US during that time, but have finally landed with a splash, thanks to the help of very strong reviews for their whole range of wines in The Wine Advocate earlier this year.
Dan:
’01 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Spätlese $41.99
Matt:
’05 Bertrand Braneyre Haut Médoc $18.99
I am not sure if everybody out there has heard but the 2005 Bordeaux vintage was pretty good. Okay, this might be a bit of an understatement considering it may turn out to be the best vintage in 25 years. But seriously, all of us have heard about the amazing, structured and highly age able wines from the 2005 vintage, no doubt we have also seen the prices on what little is still on the market. Alas there is hope for beautiful wines from 2005 that will not cost an arm and a leg. The great thing about an amazing vintage, such as 2005, is the quality of the petit chateaus, which are affordable and ready for drinking now. Chateau Bertrand Braneyre is just such a property.
Patrice:
’04 Allegrini “Palazzo della Torre” IGT Veneto $14.97
Established in 1854, the Allegrini family estate extends over 173 acres in the Veneto region of Italy. Known for the passion for using raw materials of only the highest quality the Allegrini family has been one of the key wineries in the recent renaissance of Valpolicella wines.
Donald:
’04 Roger Champault “Clos de la Cure” Menetou Salon $17.99
Domaine Roger Champault is based in the tiny commune of Crezancy, which is about 7 miles from the town of Sancerre and centered around some of the finest southern and eastern hillsides in the AOC. The Champault winery was started by Roger’s father, who was a grower who sold off his wines. After Roger took over the property from his father, the domain began bottling wines under its own name. Today, the property is managed Roger’s sons who have continued to raise the quality levels.
Brian:
’07 J.M. Raffault Chinon Rosé $13.99
I'm an unapologetic fan of rosé and let me take this opportunity to promote our stellar, international selection. But among these many wines, from the deliciously fruity to the seriously mineral and food-demanding, my favorite remains, this year as last, the singular and seductive Chinon rosé from J.M. Raffault.
Jose:
’06 Mitolo “Jester” Australia Cabernet Sauvignon $14.97
This being my first staff pick in years I wanted to pick something both special and affordable; and the Jester Cab makes that very easy. Mitolo, a family winery, was founded in 1999 by Frank Mitolo. Shortly after, in 2001, illustrious Australian wine maker Ben Glaetzer became a partner. With his guidance Mitolo now produces wines that constantly perform above their price range. The vineyard source for this wine is located in the Willunga district at the cooler southern end of McLaren Vale known for being better suited for Cabernet than Shiraz.
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