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August Staff Picks
While the taste sensations are bold, it's well worth the effort to become acclimated with this world class wine. I highly suggest serving it with food, whether as an apéritif with olives or salted almonds, with intensely flavored (especially salty) appetizers like shrimp sautéed in garlic and olive oil, cured meats like prosciutto, jamón Ibérico or chorizo or with just about any multi-course seafood based meal—outstanding with your next sushi feast!
Valdespino's orgins date back to 1264, when Don Alfonso Valdespino fought for King Alonso to reconquer the city of Jerez and was granted land in Jerez. Their commercial records date back to 1430, although the company we know today was not registered until 1875. In 1883 they became an official purveyor to the Royal House of Spain. The legacy of this heritage is in the top vineyards they own—most prominately the Macharnudo Vineyard—and their exceptional stocks of very old wines. While distrubution has been irregular in recent years and we are very pleased that they teamed up with The Artisan Collection earlier this year, who are committed to providing a regular supply of fresh bottles—as freshness is critical to the magic of Fino and Manzanilla sherry. If you had an unsatisfying Sherry experience in the past chances are the bottle you had was an old one that may have languished on the shelf for a year or more, often showing more golden in color than the pale straw it should be.
This is an elegant, intense, complex and full-bodied Fino from the acclaimed Macharnudo Vineyard and aged a minimum of eight years in solera cask after fermentation in American Oak casks. The nose offers complex notes of green apple, white flowers, almond, chalky minerality and just a kiss of leesy lemon zest. The palate is crisp and bright with a fluid, silky impact on the attack. Green apple, pear, lemon, pine sap and yeasty tones ride into a very long, mineral laced finish. This top notch Fino is offered in the half bottle size so it won't linger in the fridge losing freshness, though I have little doubt it will disappear from your glass very quickly and with great pleasure.
Claude Courtois himself, in all his bearded rusticity, can be found making wine in the middle of the Loire valley, in a town known as Sologne. His estate and six acres of vineyards sit amidst forests, orchards and wild flower fields. Overall the region has poor soil riddled with stones, and a layer of clay that lies beneath several inches of earth.
The '06 Quartz, much like the '03, is difficult to pin down at first, but once you spend some time with it you'll fall in love. On the nose sliced apple is joined by poached apple and pear as well as apple chutney spiced with brown sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice. On the palate the wine is very nutty, with a firm acidity. More apple is joined by almond, hazelnut and wild yeast notes plus hints of bacon fat and warm caramel. The wine finishes long and vibrant, with great mineral and core fruit presence and a lingering inner mouth perfume of pear eau du vie. Yes, it works great with goat cheese, but it's also fantastic with boiled or grilled sausage.
With at least nine different vineyards supplying fruit for this wine the intention is not to create an expression of a vineyard or small commune but to create a seamless weave of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre that becomes more than the sum of its parts. All lots were hand picked, destemmed and fermentation began with native wild yeast. No oak was used in the production and the wine was not fined or filtered.
This wine is a great California version of a southern Rhone style blend that stands up to most Gigondas or Vacqueyras. The nose is full with notes of red cherry, dried flowers, and earth. There are also light notes of clove and some dried herbs that become clear. The palate is suave and delivers flavors of red cherry, raspberry and spice. Light to medium bodied this wine has good acidity, light fine tannins and a clean finish which makes it a perfect match with summer grilling or even barbeque.
The exceptionally well priced and accessible 2005 St. Colombe is a delicious blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. Deep crimson in the glass, the wine has an enticing nose of blackberry jam and violets. The palate has rolling layers of juicy ripe berries laces with hints of earth, cedar and spice box. Tannis that are well integrated combine with a textured mouth feel to give the wine dpeth and lead to a satisfying finish. Ready to drink now you can enjoy this sumptuous Côtes de Castillon with your favorite grilled chops or steaks ...a spectacular bargain not to be missed.
“Sainte Catherine” has a lovely light straw color with shimmering gold highlights in the glass. Silky layers of peach, creamy nougat, pineapple and honeyed pears sprinkled with minerality harmoniously coexist on the nose. The palate dazzles with an abundance of sweet peach, quince, juicy melon, fig paste and layer upon layer of minerality. This wine offers up vibrant acidity, adding lift to a dynamic textural backdrop. Serve by itself as an aperitif or with fresh or poached pears or peaches, rillets, foie gras, blue cheeses like Roquefort and Gorgonzola or with crème brûlée.
“Rich and ripe, with glazed fruit, apple tartine and fig paste notes backed by a rich texture and a long, creamy finish, where the lingering fig and green almond notes keep pulling you back. Combines power and precision. Drink now through 2027. 600 cases made.” —WS 96
Yet, among Crochet's 31 hectares of vines lay 6 hectares of Pinot Noir, located primarily in two vineyards: "Clos du Roy" and "Côte de Bué," in the village of Bué. Two cuvées of Sancerre Rouge, including "La Croix du Roy," are produced from these vines. Indeed, Sancerre comes dressed in red! The "Croix du Roy" is made entirely of Pinot Noir grapes, all hand-harvested and completely destemmed. Only a small portion of the grapes see any oak at all, with the vast majority maturing fully in stainless steel. Crochet does not attempt a "Burgundian" style Pinot Noir. His aim here is to produce an elegant wine, lighter in tannins and extract than those from Burgundy, showcasing the intense minerality of the terroir. The wine is bottled after 12 to 18 months of aging.
The ’05 Lucien Crochet “La Croix du Roy” Sancerre Rouge is a glorious example of what a skilled winemaker can do with Pinot Noir in the Loire Valley. Complex minerality predominates on the nose, with subtle notes of tobacco, smoke, bacon, cedar and olive rounding out the profile. The palate has seamlessly integrated red plum, black cherry, smoked meat, salty mineral notes and supple tannins which lead to a long mineral finish. This is not a big, muscular wine, but it has remarkable persistence, impact and cut.
One reason I love the '05 "La Croix du Roy" is its affinity for food. Its pure fruit makes it a great partner for chicken or portabellas off the grill. It's a hit with herb-roasted pork and soft cheeses. And it is one of those rare reds that partners gracefully with fish, especially firm-fleshed types like grouper, monkfish or a locally-caught Long Island blackfish, prepared with a red wine (or, even better, Lillet Rouge) pan sauce.
This tiny winery was built in 1972 on a shoestring budget. Francis utilized his passion for great wines and let his dynamic palate guide him in the creation of making sublime wine. Calling on his hands-on experience in some of the most storied cellars of Burgundy, with the profile of superb Pinot Noir in mind, and with deft execution in the winery he has been crafting great California Pinot Noir at Fleur de California Winery for quite some time. Fleur de California Vin Gris is sourced from Carneros grown Pinot Noir vines and it is a bright expression of fresh and flavorful Rosé. Made in a crisp, dry style this is an ideal match with summer fare. The wine displays dramatic aromas of strawberry and honeysuckle while exhibiting a mouthwatering finish that cleanses the palate.
Justin:
NV Valdespino “Inocente” Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Fino .375L $15.99
There are few better wines than chilled Manzanilla or Fino Sherry during the depths of summer's heat and Valdespino's single vineyard "Inocente" is one of the greats. The recent write up in the New York Times about these exceptional wines is a reflection of the growing passion for Sherry among the wine cognisenti. I wholeheartedly urge everyone who has not already given them a shot to gie them a try this August.
Dan:
’06 Claude Courtois "Quartz" Loire Sauvignon Blanc $23.99
Claude Courtois produces a singular Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley knows as "Quartz." Some of you may have already tried his Quartz from the '03 vintage, which we carry. If so, you've experienced a remarkable, and remarkably unusual, wine that tastes like no other Sauvignon Blanc I've had. Baked apples laden with cake spices open the nose and are followed by finely crushed rocks and a hint of enticingly mushroomy oxidation. On the palate the '03 is both racy and chewy, with rich apple, pear, wet crushed stone and copious spice. The '06 vintage provides a decidedly fresher interpretation of this wine but maintains the deep, rich and novel terroir experienced in the '03.
Matt:
’05 Edmunds St. John "Rocks and Gravel" $17.99
Edmunds St. John was founded in 1985 by husband and wife team Steve Edmunds and Cornelia St. John in a small old industrial warehouse in west Berkley. Over the last almost 20 years they have been producing European-style wine using classic Rhone varietals: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Viognier, etc. The wine landscape of California in 1985 looked very different then today. Chardonnay and Cabernet were almost the only quality grapes being grown and Steven had to search far and wide for sources of quality Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. His efforts were rewarded with some of the best old vine, low yielding fruit sources in California at the time. Many of these original vineyards are still used today in the 2005 Rocks and Gravel.
Patrice:
’05 St. Colombe Côtes de Castillon Bordeaux $10.97
If you think you have been priced out of the Bordeaux market think again. Some terrific values are still to be found in the smaller appellations of Bordeaux. In particular, the district of Côtes de Castillon located just west of Saint Emilion offers many possibilities. With a variety of soil types and over 3,000 hectares of vines planted, the US market has recently seen many interesting and well priced offerings on the shelves of local wine shops over the last several years. Chateau St. Colombe is one such winery located in Côtes de Castillon on the Right Bank of Bordeaux immediately west of St. Emilion. At St. Colombe the wine maker Gerard Perse uses the fruit from two different chateax, Chateau Clos l'Eglise and Chateau Clos les Lunelles. Perse, who has become known in the industry for implementing modern wine making techniques in facilities that have under performed has done just that at Chateau St. Colombe with great success.
Donald:
’05 Domaine des Baumard “Clos de Sainte Catherine” Coteaux de Layon Moelleux $40.99
Domaine des Baumard is one of the best producers in the Loire Valley. They are well known for their exquisite Savennières and for their truly breathtaking sweet wines from Coteaux de Layon—especially in a vintage as great as ’05. The Baumard estate is nestled in the heart of Rochefort-sur-Loire, a small, enchanting village on the southern bank of the Loire River, where the Baumard family has produced wine since 1634. 
Brian:
’05 Lucien Crochet "La Croix du Roy" Sancerre Rouge $27.97
It was Lucien Crochet's great- grandfather who first came to make wine in the Loire's Sancerre appellation. Since 1934 when bottling commenced, Domaine Lucien Crochet has become a standard bearer for quality wine in Sancerre. His Sauvignon Blancs are renown for their excellent balance, pure, crisp fruit and taut minerality. Pear, lime, caraway, melon, flowers and stone are words often associated with Crochet's whites.
Jose:
’07 Fleur de California"Vin Gris" Carneros Rosé(Net) $11.97
With an undying enthusiasm for the reds of Burgundy and heart-felt confidence in California’s potential for producing world-class wines, Francis & Kathy Mahoney have realized their life-long dream of growing super refined Pinot Noir in Northern California.
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