pjwine.com - December 2008 Staff Picks

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December Staff Picks

JustinJustin:
’04 Bodega Rejadorada “Temple” Toro $20.99
From Toro's great 2004 vintage Bodega Rejadorada has created this full-bodied, but silky, sleekly balanced and affordable red. The winery was founded in 1999 with the goal of creating exclusive, high quality and limited production reds that express the character and personality of Toro.

Bodega Rejadorada is named after the window grille (Reja in Spanish) of the historic Palace of Monroy where in 1476 Antonia Garcia, wife of the Marqués de Monroy was hanged for taking part in the uprising against Portuguese occupiers in the nearby town of Toro. When Queen Isabel later entered Toro in triumph, she declared the grille to be gilded (Dorada in Spanish) in honor of the dead, and thus the historic name of Bodega Rejadorada.

The sensuous and harmonious 2004 “Temple” is opaque purple in color and packed with plush and creamy blackberry and black cherry scents. Additional tones of flinty minerals, smoke, dried beef and spice buttress those core scents on the nose. The palate is luscious, featuring black cherry vanilla flavors layered with the melange of tones on the nose, which expand in complexity across the palate. Well-mannered, in part due to low alcohol for Toro (13.5%), the mouthfeel is supple with fine, ripe tannins. The finish is long with lingering cherry flavors and a touch of toasty vanilla. This pure, well-integrated and large-scaled red is perfect for your next hearty, cold weather meal and displays a special level of polish in the full bore realm of Toro.

DanDan:
’06 Mersiol Alsace Riesling $14.99
Even in the dead of winter I drink a substantial amount of white wine, predominantly Riesling from Germany, Austria, and Alsace, and white Burgundy. When eating fatty fish I find that Alsacian Riesling can make for a fantastic and economical pairing, and one of my recent favorites is the 2006 vintage of Domaine Mersiol’s introductory level Riesling.

Domaine Mersiol is located in the Alsacian hillsides of Dambach-la-ville, in northeastern France. It is rumored that the villagers first planted vines just outside the town to satisfy a bear with a taste for grapes (I suppose if a bear asks you for something, you just have to do it). The Mersiol family dates back to the 18th century, and in 1960 the estate expanded with the marriage of Guy Mersiol to Anne-Lise Ruhlman. They practice organic viticultural methods such as “grassing down,” work to encourage biodiversity, and are on their way to certification.

As for the wine, it is a tremendous bargain. On highly aromatic nose tart green apple scents intermingle with fresh fennel, smoky mint, and pulverized stone tones, plus hints of fresh white flowers. The palate is pure, fat and round, filled with flavors of juicy, zesty Granny Smith apple which are accentuated by crushed stone and freshly ground white pepper nuances. It offers great length and very impressive delineation of flavors. This pairs beautifully with seafood, from linguini with white clam sauce to poached or grilled salmon over lentils to bacon-wrapped monkfish in porcini jus. For those who don’t enjoy the fruit of the sea, it also drinks great with grilled, boiled or broiled sausages.

BrandyBrandy:
’06 Beckmen “Cuvée Le Bec” $14.99
Many of you might know this area of California from the movie “Sideways”. The Santa Ynez Valley is long and bordered by mountain ranges - the Purisima Hills and San Raphael Mountains to the north and the Santa Ynez Mountains to the south. The western section benefits from the moderating effects of the Pacific, and is dominated by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. As one follows the Santa Ynez River east, the elevation rises approximately 800 feet. At this higher altitude, in north-south running canyons, vineyards experience greater temperature fluctuations with a warmer overall climate. In this environment, Syrah is leading the charge for the "Rhone Ranger" wineries in the area.

Beckmen Winery, founded in 1994, is located in these higher altitude canyons. With an ideal climate and rare limestone subsoils similar to those found in Cote Rotie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the vineyard has proven perfect for producing a range of excellent Rhone varietals, especially Syrah and Grenache. Farmed 100 percent biodynamically since 2006, the following year it was selected as one of the "Top 100 Wineries" in the world by Wine & Spirits magazine.

The 2006 “Cuvee le Bec” consists of 50% Grenache, 28% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Counoise. It exhibits the balance and structure of a Cotes du Rhone. Medium-bodied and soft, it has plenty of pepper, sweet cherry, herb, and spice characteristics. An ideal bistro red, it is a delicious, personality filled, bargain-priced effort to enjoy over the next 1-2 years. Serve it alongside pork, hearty soups, stews, and anything that has barbeque sauce.

PatricePatrice:
’NV Graham's “10 Year” Tawny Port $26.97
W & J Graham's was founded in 1820 in Oporto, Portugal by brothers William and John Graham.  Extremely dedicated from the start the brothers invested in both land and facilities to become producers of world class vintage port.  In 1890 the Graham's acquired the famous Quinta dos Malvedos property which continues today to be one of  the fundamental elements in their production of fine vintage and tawny port.  Graham's lodge built in 1905 was a vast and ambitious undertaking that provided them with the ideal conditions to store and age their products.

The Graham's aged tawny ports are produced from high quality wines that are carefully selected and blended before being matured in seasoned casks.  The wines are then painstakingly monitored until peak maturity is achieved. At release these delicious and rich tawnies are ready to drink and will not benefit from further cellaring.

The lush and delicious Graham's 10 year Tawny Port is a deep amber in the glass.  On the nose are a profusion of scents including citrus peel, marzipan and spice.  The palate of this tawny is intricately complex with rolling flavors of dried  and candied fruit, caramel and toasted nuts.  A perennial holiday classic, enjoy this delightful port with a fine Stilton cheese, roasted chestnuts or dried fruit.

Wishing all of PJ's customers a happy and healthy holiday.

Donald Donald:
NV Juve y Camps Sparkling Brut Rosé $14.99
Juvey Camps is made in the Penedes region which is located due west of Barcelona near the city of Sant Sadurni dí Anoia, where many of the major Cava houses are located. This winery has been in existence since start in the late 1700ís. It was during the phylloxera epidemic that a member of the Juve family encouraged growers to replant vines when most of them were ready to abandon the region altogether. In the early 20th century Joan Juve Basques married Teresa Camps Farre and in 1921 the first sparkling wine under the ìJuveî brand was born. Today, this family owned winery is one of the biggest and best in Spain.

Cava is generally made from a blend of three different grapes: Macabeu, Xarel-lo and Parellada. This rose happens is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, making it an exception to the ruleóand a truly glorious one at that. The production of Cava is similar to Champagne, in that the final fermentation is done in the bottleóthis results in a wine with much more complex flavors and aromas.

A pretty pink in the glass that is interspersed with fine spirals of infinitesimal bubbles. This lovely cava offers up scents of fresh raspberries, a smear of strawberry jam on freshly baked homemade bread and a whiff of rose hips. The palate is alive with bright minerality and positively luminescent cherry and citrusy infused flavors backed by a dusting of chalky terroir that trails out on a long and highly elegant finish. Enjoy this Rose Cava with roast chicken, grilled seafood, as an aperitif alongside charturtrie and cheeses or while ringing in í09.

“My favorite... is the non-vintage Brut Rose. Dark pink in color with a lovely nose of rose petals and strawberries, it is lively and fresh on the palate, with crisp acidity and a long finish. This excellent value can be served with a variety of savory courses and as an aperitif.” —WA 90

BrianBrian:
’06 Philippe Gilbert Menetou-Salon Rouge $21.99
Perhaps it is the holiday conundrum of what wine to pair with what food on Thanksgiving, or what wine would be best to bring to the relatives for Christmas Dinner, or what would be a bottle elegant but affordable enough to make the long-awaited and much-fretted-over New Year’s Eve dinner just soar. Whatever the motive(s), these questions are front and center this time of year in the world of wine. And Pinot Noir, perhaps more than any other varietal, seems to associate itself with these pressing concerns.

When it comes to Pinot Noir, one usually looks to Burgundy, Oregon, California, and increasingly even to Chile and New Zealand. But this year let’s not overlook the Loire Valley in central France, and specifically its Menetou-Salon appellation. Wine has been made in Menetou- Salon since the 11th Century by noblemen descended from Viking conquerors. Sitting next to the better known Sancerre appellation, the clay and limestone soils of Menetou-Salon are ideal for making highly mineral, terroir-driven Pinot Noir, which even at its high end is a relative bargain alongside the wines of some of the abovementioned regions.

Domaine Philippe Gilbert is a family winery sitting on 67 acres of the only 1160 in Menetou-Salon. Since 2006, Philippe and associates have devoted themselves to the principles and methods of biodynamic farming, in order to restore the vineyards to their full luster and to most fully express the uniqueness of their terroir in the Sauvignon Blanc-based whites and Pinot Noir-based reds. The vineyards are carefully ploughed to increase oxygenation of the soil and to allow the roots to dive even deeper into the earth. No chemical fertilizers are used and all grapes are harvested by hand.

The ’06 Philippe Gilbert Menetou-Salon is ruby-colored in the glass. Red fruits, a whiff of barnyard, smoked meat and minerals form the nose. The palate is very pure, with creamy cherry and strawberry notes, black pepper and earthy minerality balanced by a crisp acidity and gentle, round tannins. Bring this Loire red to the table with charcuterie, duck confit, a simple roast chicken with butter and herbs, baked ham or grilled salmon with wild mushrooms.

JoseJose:
’07 Feudi di San Gregorio Campania Sannio Falanghina $13.99
The Feudi di San Gregorio winery is based in Campania which is 3 hours southeast of Rome. The vineyards that provide fruit for this Falanghina are situated on small, well exposed hillside parcels near Monte Taburno. Most of these vineyards are farmed by local growers under supervision by the Feudi winemakers, who maintain long-term contracts with the growers who provide them with their best fruit.

This Falanghina is hand harvested and transported to the winery by refrigerated trucks. Bunches are individually sorted and gently crushed. Only the free run juice is used for the wine; the rest is sold off in bulk. The wine goes through a long, low-temperature fermentation in stainless steel tanks for four weeks. This process promotes fresh fruit and floral aromas and flavors in the wine, as well as rich textures on the palate.

This Falanghina has a flinty, grassy, wet stone quality that is backed by pretty notes of dried apricots, white flowers and stone fruits. The palate is a pure on the palate with pure ripe pear, melon and light honey flavors. Zippy acidity balances the fruit and mineral notes linger on the finish along with a note of white pepper. Pair this Falanghina with seafood, chickenóroasted, grilled or coldópasta and Asian food.




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