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January Staff Picks
Bodegas Altanza is located in Fuenmayor in the Rioja Alta sub-zone and headed by Oscar Martinez, from the third generation of his Rioja winemaking family. The estate is 720 hectares of which 120 hectares are planted exclusively with Tempranillo grapes, and also includes 70 hectares of olive groves. The restrict yields in the vineyards and use no commercial fertalizers or herbisides to achieve sustainable, long-term production. Their stylish and functional new winery was designed to take advantage of both modern techniques and tradtional methods, such as large oak vats along with new and re-used french oak barrels.
The 2004 Lealtanza Crianza is strikingly pure and expressive for a Rioja at this price. It is a ruby-purple color with a bright nose of red cherry and plum scents and soft oak and black earth tones. As the wine opens in the glass darker cherry notes emerge. The palate shows Burgundian finesse, offering both depth and delicacy held together by a beautifully integrated arc of acidity. Red and black cherry flavors show impressive purity and mingle with damp earth, clay, mineral and subtle vanilla notes. Sweet, ripe and round tannins flow into a long, harmonious finish. An excellent and affordable Rioja Crianza just coming into its optimal drinking plateau. Decant to serve now.
The winemaking process of icewine (in Ontario) requires that the temperature of the berries must have reached temperatures as low as 18°F. It also requires that the sugar levels have reached at least 35° Brix. For those of you interested, the Brix Scale measures the sugar-to-water ratio in a liquid. 1° Brix is equal to approximately 18 grams per liter of sugar.)
On the nose this wine begins with sensual apricot and baked peach scents through which a peak of juicy pear emerges, accented by just a touch of pie crust. On the palate the wine has nice zestyness and acidity which easily supports its layers of round fat. Flavors of dried apricot, and tangy peaches are joined by hints of lychee, caramel and brown sugar. It has very good length and balance, finishing with apricot and poached pear tones. Drink this on its own or with your favorite veined cheese.
The Allegrini family has been handing down grape growing and wine producing traditions over many generations, playing a major role in the Valpolicella Classico area for many centuries. Giovanni Allegrini was the founder of the new generation: he was extremely proud to be part of the Valpolicella, and dedicated his many resources and energies to this land. He was among the first to question local viticultural techniques, to revolutionize accepted practices, and to speak clearly about quality. He was able to combine the science of enology with strict grape selection, and between 1960 and 1970, made some of the Valpolicella's best wines.
According to Gambero Rosso, Italy's most important wine publication, Allegrini is a “Star” winery, a winery that has won at least ten “3-glass” awards. This rare honor is given to a select few of Italy's top producers and recognizes them for consistently producing outstanding wines across many vintages.
Allegrini's “La Grola”, legally an IGT and not a Valpolicella because of the addition of Syrah, is a single-vineyard blend of 70% Corvina Veronese, 15% Rondinella, 10% Syrah and 5% Sangiovese. A full-bodied, intense and elegant red wine, the vineyard has chalk and clay soils, and is located 1,000 feet above sea level. Aged 16 months in French oak, this wine is matured for almost one year in bottle for extra finesse.
Full-bodied and elegant, this rich single vineyard standout offers greater depth and finesse than Allegrini's extremely popular “Palazzo della Torre” and will easily hold its own against higher end Valpolicellas. Crushed black cherry, plum, leather and Italian herbs lead the way into the plush nose of this Veneto blend. On the palate the wine is big and juicy with burly yet brushed tannins, co-mingled with notes of dark cherry, cocoa powder, tea and leather. It finishes impressively with a hint of coffee. Try this with herb crusted lamb chops, juicy, rare roast beef or mellow, aged cheeses.
If you are a fan of Zinfandel you are most likely familiar with Ridge Wines. The history at Ridge dates back to the late 19th century when the first vines were planted at the Monte Bello site in the Northern Santa Cruz Mountains to create what would later become one of the most legendary Zinfandel vineyards in the country. As Ridge expanded over the years purchasing other sites they have become known as one of the finest producers of single vineyard Zinfandel in the country with well regarded bottlings from Monte Bello, Pagani Ranch, Geyserville and Lytton Springs. In 2001 Ridge Wines took an additional step and produced one of their first blended wines using fruit from a number of vineyards. Labeled “Three Valleys”, this wine is a true representation of the talented wine making team at Ridge. The 2007 Three Valleys is a deep magenta in the glass. On the nose is fragrant blackberry and currant with hints of chocolate and leather. Although predominantly Zinfandel, the technical blend is 76% Zinfandel, 8% Petite Sirah, 6% Grenache and 3% Carignane. The fruit, sourced from five top vineyards, is rich with jammy blackberry laced with licorice and black pepper. Lush but not sweet, the wine has solid tannins and a spice driven finish. The Three Valleys is a terrific pairing with most winter roasts or extend your barbecue season and try this wine with pulled pork sandwiches or other “low and slow” ‘cue. A delicious bargain not to be missed!!
Bolta's open-minded approach has been to blend five different white wine varieties “outside the typical parameters for white wines. People often call this wine [Conundrum] exotic, and I think that's a fitting description. There is nothing else like it out there.” Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon, Viognier and Muscat Canelli all find their way into any given bottling. Conundrum exact blend is not revealed from vintage to vintage, thus enabling Bolta to capitalize on the relative strengths of each varietal on any given year.
Deeply floral and profoundly aromatic with ample white peach flesh, cool nectarine skin and spice driven melon scents. The intensely fruity tropical flavors that dominate the palate are vividly melded to the wine's moderate acidity. This elegant wine offers a lovely fleshy texture, refreshing lift, and a long, lingering finish. It is ideally served with steamed lobster, sautéed scallops, roast poultry or pork tenderloin dishes. In addition, it is a terrific match with triple cream cheese or dried fruit.
Fattoria Rivetti is the property of fourth generation winemaker Stefano Rivetti. On only 17 hectares of vineyards, he produces a prodigious range of Piedmont varietals - Dolcetto, Barbera, Arneis, Freisa and Nebbiolo. “Cairel” is made from grapes harvested from the Vigneto Rainè, a 100-year-old plus vineyard located on three hectares of chalky, limestoine-rich soil. The grapes are hand harvested in mid to late October and ferment in contact with their skins for 30 days. The wine is then aged 16 months in oak, 80% in large barrels and 20% in barrique.
I served the ’04 Rivetti “Cairel” with Christmas dinner and the first thing everybody noticed was the wine's perfume of baked plum, tar, dried fruit, and delicate notes of violet. These notes reappear on the palate with a bright acidity that keeps this wine, and its sense of black earth, from ever seeming the least bit heavy. A very silky mouthfeel and ripe, round tannins offer good structure and lead into a long dark-berry finish.
So bring on the roasts, braises and nutty hunks of parmesan the season demands! And know that you can enjoy them to their best advantage with a true value Nebbiolo.
Dark ruby in the glass this Garnacha also carries shades of shimmering purple highlights around the rim. The nose possesses a rich aroma of ripe red and black berries with hints of floral tones that are quite typical of high quality Garnacha. The palate is fully-loaded with blackberries, strawberries and hints of leather as well as tones of vanilla and ripe plums. Sweet and pleasant tannins lead to a long and delicately balanced finish. I highly recommend serving this gem with braised ox tail over polenta, grilled steak, hearty stews and roast game.
“Inky ruby. Highly complex bouquet of cherry, dark berry liqueur, iron, tobacco and dried flowers; reminded me a wine from Graves. Tangy cherry and cassis flavors are on the primal side initially but soften and gain sweetness with air. Fine tannins add grip to the long, spicy finish, which repeats the iron note. This is very promising.”
-International Wine Cellar 90+
Justin:
’04 Bodegas Altanza “Lealtanza” Rioja Crianza $17.99
Bodegas Altanza is an up and coming Rioja winery, whose committment to quality is apparent in their pure, precise and harmonious wines. Their style is modern but with elegant restraint in keeping with their goal of creating quintessentially balanced wines. They have begun recieving high critical praise for their wines over the last couple years, most notably for their Spanish Artist series luxury cuvée, featuring works by art world greats like Dalí and Miró on the label. However, their drive for quality is evident across their line up, as seen in this Crianza.
Dan:
’02 Colio Estate Wines Lake Erie North Shore Icewine Sweet Vidal .375L $43.99
Winter is a great time to drink icewine, particularly while warming yourself in front of the fireplace and staring at the falling snow. If you live in a city like New York, you may have to substitute “fireplace” with “paint-caked steam pipe” though we’ve been lucky enough to have some snow this winter.
Brandy:
’04 Allegrini “La Grola” IGT Veneto $21.99
The Allegrini estate is based in Fumane di Valpolicella, just north of Verona in northeastern Italy. Valpolicella, or ’valley of many cellars’, is an area crossed from north to south by a series of hills, which in succession form three parallel valleys. These valleys are crossed by steep-sided, narrow river beds which remain dry except during spring thaws or autumn rains. Geography and weather combine to create an ideal growing environment.
Patrice:
’07 Ridge Zinfandel “Three Valleys”
$16.97
Donald:
’07 Caymus “Conundrum” $21.97
Jon Bolta began his career at Caymus in ’83; he worked on the bottling line, in the cellar, toiled in the vineyards and eventually became Chuck Wagner's winemaking assistant. In ’88 Bolta realized a life-long ambition by creating a full-bodied white wine that was complex enough to be paired with dishes being created by California's most innovative chefs. Jon's ongoing goal has been to improve and evolve the quality of his wine and believes that "real advances in viticultural practices, like new trellising systems, leaf pulling and crop thinning" have enabled Bolta and likeminded California growers to craft better wines. He notes that "by increasing our control of sun and air exposure, we get richer fruit."
Brian:
’04 Azienda Agricola Fratelli Rivetti “Cairel” Nebbiolo d'Alba $23.99
Winter is the time for home-cooked meals. Hearty fare-roasts of beef and lamb, wild mushrooms sautéed with garlic and herbs, slow-cooked pasta sauces fragrant of sausage, meatballs and braciole are the order of the day, and they all cry out for Nebbiolo, the grape responsible for Piedmont's noblest red wines. The bad news is that Nebbiolo, especially in the form of Barbaresco or Barolo, carries a relatively hefty price tag. The good news is that we offer the ‘04 Rivetti “Cairel” Nebbiolo d’Alba. Here is a wine bursting with the earthy, dark-fruit aromas of Piedmont at a very modest cost.
Jose:
’07 Borsao “Tres Picos” Campo de Borja Garnacha $13.99
Made entirely from Garnacha vines that average between 30 to 40 years; this densely flavorful PJ's bestseller is as consistently delicious, vintage after vintage, as it is a great value and a perfect wine to pair with a vast assortment of winter dishes. 40 years ago in the town of Borje-which is located in the Campo De Borja DO-the Borsao winery was born. Located on uneven terrain between 600 to 700 meters above sea level, the Borsao vineyards yield four and a half tons of fruit per hectare and are harvested at maximum ripeness during the first week in October. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then undergoes a three week maceration.
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