pjwine.com - February 2009 Staff Picks

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February Staff Picks

JustinJustin:
’01 Cascina Bruni Batistot Barolo Riserva $64.99
This gorgeous 2001 Barolo Riserva is the essence of silky elegance and showing beautifully now. Although from the Serralunga sub-zone of Barolo, known for its powerfully tannic and slowly evolving wines, this wine defies the norm through its distinctive, ultra-traditional production method. The result is pure silk and a supple, vibrant expression of the terroir of the 50 year old vines of the Batistot vineyard.

The Cascina Bruni estate has been in the Veglio winemaking family for over 100 years and is helmed by Giuseppe Veglio with the help of his sons Fulvio and Cristiano. The Batistot and the Rivassotto Riservas are their top two wines and made in miniscule quantities; less than 200 cases of Batistot Riserva were made in 2001.

The secret of the unusually approachable style of their Riservas is temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel with a shortened period of time with skin contact that is importantly followed by aging in 70-80 year old, small chestnut casks for two years. The wine is then aged in large, old Slovenian oak casks for a minimum of two years. The extra, slow oxygenation from the time in chestnut casks makes this one of the most fine and satiny young Barolo Riservas I have had, especially from Serralunga.

The 2001 Cascina Bruni Batistot Barolo Riserva offers a very flowery and fragrant nose of red plum, dried rose petal, red licorice, sage, smoke and wet sandstone minerality. The palate is silky and graceful, expanding on the notes from the nose with flavors of strawberry, crushed red apple skin, wild savory and a touch of persimmon spice. Deceptively well-structured by fine boned acidity and very fine tannins this wine slides into a long finish marked by lingering notes of dried strawberry, sage and powdered stone. This sensuous standout was outstanding with a refined Italian meal of truffled chicken liver over polenta, wild mushroom risotto and venison medallions. Decant to serve now or cellar for another ten years.

DanDan:
’05 Lost Canyon “Saralee's” Sonoma-Russian River Valley Pinot Noir $37.99
I had never heard of Lost Canyon Winery until recently, when one of our distributors came to me and said (and I paraphrase), “I have only one California winery in my portfolio. Would you like to try it?” The bulk of this distributor's portfolio consisted of high quality Burgundy and Champagne, so of course I said yes. That “yes” was a very good decision. This Pinot is one of the best I've ever tasted from California.

The wines of Lost Canyon are highly expressive. Moreover, they are precise, balanced, and low in alcohol - features that aren't exactly hallmarks of current California winemaking, though they harken back to an earlier, more “classic” style of California wine. These wines have the kind of balance that helped put California wines on the map in the first place, but has since been abandoned by many producers.

The Pinot comes from the Saralee vineyard in the Russian River Valley AVA. It is a cool climate vineyard (for California) which allows for a longer ripening period. This longer ripening enables more complete ripening which in turn generates fully ripe fruit and thereby better wine.

This wine displays outstanding elegance, complexity and finesse. On the nose rose and field flower scents intermingle with pure cherry, freshly broken tree branch, and hints of fresh mint. In the mouth this wine is exceptionally vibrant with a racy spine and impressive minerality. Open and supple flavors of red cherry, strawberry and raspberry are laced with damp black earth notes and accented by spice sachet and floral tones. A beam of minerality follows through the long and sappy finish. This is gorgeous American Pinot Noir.

BrandyBrandy:
’07 Les Chemin de Bassac VdP des Côtes de Thongue Pinot Noir $12.99
This earthy, terrior driven, certified Organic Pinot Noir hails from the Côtes de Thongue, which is part of the larger area of Languedoc in the south of France. Although this area boasts a hot Mediterranean climate, the vineyards themselves are located at 100 metres of altitude which allows the grapes to ripen in the slow fashion that suits them best. In combination with the limestone-clay soils, which are stony and very well-drained, this creates an ideal condition for producing Pinot Noir.

The vineyard is entirely cultivated via organic agriculture. The grapes are certified according to the organic recommendations of ECOCERT as well as receiving the NOP certification (National Organic Program) from the United States. The wine is worked gently to obtain a maximum amount of fruit, smoothness of tannins and to preserve the inherent minerality of the grape.

As most Pinot Noir lovers know, it is difficult to get a really great one at an everyday price – yet here one is. Distinctively French, this rustic Pinot Noir shows notes of dried strawberries and winter spice. As lovely as it is right now, it can be aged from 3 to 5 years. Enjoy with almost any food you like – this is a very food friendly wine.

PatricePatrice:
’05 Felsina Berardenga Rancia Riserva $38.99
Fattoria di Felsina is one of those fairy tale Tuscan estates with a history dating back to the 12th century at a time when the property was operated by Benedictine monks. Going on fast forward, eight centuries later the winery has within only the last two decades become known as one of the top producers of Chianti in Tuscany. Currently managed by Giuseppe Mazzocolin, the Fattoria is not only highly respected for its Chianti but Super Tuscan bottling as well. Within the Felsina estate the six acre Rancia Vineyard is one of their finest sites. The Sangiovese from this vineyard is used in producing one of Tuscany's most sought after Chiantis, the Felsina Berardenga Rancia.

In the glass the 2005 Felsina Berardenga Rancia is a deep crimson. The seductive nose is freshly perfumed with crushed rose petals, violets and roasted berries. On the palate are delicious rolling layers of black plums, dried cherries, and herbs complemented by a hint of smoke and sweet toasted oak. The tannins are textured and well integrated with the ample acidity one would expect from a well made traditional Chianti. The finish is both lingering and satisfying. Delicious now the 2005 Rancia is also suitable to lay down for up to a decade. If you opt to enjoy this classic Italian now it will pair beautifully with a hearty Putanensca sauce over piping hot fresh pasta…the “real thing” from Tuscany.

Donald Donald:
’05 Rimbert Mas Au Schiste, Saint Chinian $15.99
Composed of equal parts ancient Carignan, Syrah, and Grenache, this organic gem is almost black in the glass. The nose is dominated by red fruit, blueberry jam and loads of crushed stone with tones of black olive and cinamon. The palate is a generous expression of ripe and forward red and black fruit flavors that are steeped in dynamic mineral-infused cocoa tones.

The flavors here are remarkable for their depth and complexity of terroir infused fruit. Rich and powerful, yet readily accessible, this cuvée is drinking beautifully right now. Enjoy it tonight with herb encrusted roast chicken, grilled steak or leg of lamb.

BrianBrian:
’06 Hilberg-Pasquero “Vareij” $15.99
The Green Revolution is on and our customers are on the lookout for organic/biodynamic wines from around the world. So, when we come across such a wine – hand-crafted, with a very unusual varietal composition and tremendously food friendly to boot – we rush to let our customers in on the secret.

In the small village of Priocca, at a point just between the Asti and Alba appellations of Italy's Piedmont, lies the Hilberg-Pesquero winery. On clay and marl soils, husband and wife winemaking team Michele Pasquero and Annette Hilberg advance a winemaking tradition begun by Michele's great grandfather in 1915. In the vineyard and in the winery, this wine is biodynamic start to finish.

The ’06 Hilberg-Pasquero “Vareij”, a blend of 80% Bracchetto and 20% Barbera (you don't see that every day!), is hand-harvested and fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. It is deep red raspberry-colored in the glass, with a nose of geraniums, raspberries, strawberries and a hint of black pepper. The firm acidity in the mouth brightens strawberry and red cherry fruit. The finish is fresh and clean with a note of chocolate adding complexity.

This bright acidity makes the ’06 “Vareij” a great partner to a vast array of foods. Try it with salume, herb-rubbed grilled fish, grilled sausages and potatoes or a creamy vegetarian lasagna.

JoseJose:
’07 Aubuisieres Domaine des Vouvray, Silex $14.99
Domaine de Aubuisières is located in Vouvray, on the northern bank of the Loire River, a few miles east of Tour. Loire is famous for its dry, mineral-based wines and is also well known for it’s delicately fruity wines from Anjou, Vouvray, Saumur, Savennières and Touraine.

This Vouvary has a lovely straw pale hue in the glass. The nose is ripe with loads of fresh pears, cool mint leaves, ginger, a suggestion of baked sugar and ample damp mineral notes. The palate is seemingly possessed with round melon, citrus paste, a hint of fresh fig skins, cool beeswax and plenty of warm flint that rides out with highly toned acidity on the lingering finish.

Perfect with sautéed sea scallops, steamed lobster, lemon or saffron infused chicken dishes, and warm goat cheese salads.




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