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Wine of the Week Profile 02/01/10

2007 Bricco Dei Merli Barbera, Barbera d'Alba

2007 Bricco Dei Merli Barbera, Barbera d'Alba’07 Bricco Dei Merli Barbera, Barbera d'Alba $23.99

The Elvio Cogno winery is situated atop the Bricco Ravera hill near the comune of Novello in the Langhe area of Piedmont. Langhe is one of the eleven communes where Barolo is produced. The Elvio Cogno winery is housed in a stunning 18th-century manor that is surrounded by 11 hectares of vineyards. The winery is nestled in a beautiful landscape where the Cogno family has been making wine for four generations.The Cogno’s respect for nature and natural wine are a constant objective of the Azienda. All of their vineyards are managed in a sustainable manner with no use of chemicals and fertilizers permitted and the harvest is carried out entirely by hand. Carefully controlled fermentations, a minimial use of barriques and a great love for large Slovenian oak barrels enables this tightly knit winemaking family to create stunning gems.

On 1.8 hectares of Barbera vines at 300 meters above the sea in the very heart of Piedmont you’ll find the vines that contributed to this succulent Barbera D’Alba. Due to the long summer days that are fueled by the Ligurian Sea and the picturesque valleys that funnel cool air down from the Alps into the vineyards, this region enjoys exceptionally long growing seasons and that helps to create great complexity in the bottle. The Barbera grapes for this gem were harvested at the end of September and the beginning of October; this extended hangtime on the vine allows the grapes to develop bright fruit and fresh minerality. On first taste you’ll be taken by the complexity of the terroir and the freshness of the fruit from the vine. The unique environment in Piedmont fosters a dynamic relationship between the land, the farmer and the varities that thrive there.

Bright ruby in the glass with silver and dazzling crimson highlights. The wine is deeply perfumed—violets, crushed red berry & roses, blooming white flower and cedar backed by a note of warm spicebox. The powerfully elegant nose is an inticing indicator of what is to come on the succulent palate. The ripe and hearty flavors conjure up Morello cherry and homemade plum jam smeared on homemade whole wheat bread. The mid-palate is full of deep red fruit and succulent minerality that is backed by a note of sweet oak and a touch of tobacco leaf. This is a highly elegant and refined Barbera with loads of powerful fruit and seemingly bottomless depth. This Barbera has great structure and, as is true with all the wines from the Cogno, it is emensely quaffable and packed with terrific freshness. Serve this with hearty homemade pasta dishes, grilled beef or lamb, veined cheeses and aged meats.

—Donald

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