Wine of the Week Profile
2001 La Vis Trentino Muller-Thurgau Maso Rocador

’01 La Vis Trentino Muller-Thurgau Maso Rocador $12.99
Muller-Thurgau is the wine world’s most famous and most established crossing, at least of the varietals presently made into wine. The crossing was arranged in 1882 by a Dr. Hermann Muller who was born in the Swiss Canton of Thurgau. His understandable goal was to combine the quality of the Riesling grape with the viticultural reliability, especially the early ripening, of the Silvaner. Recent DNA testing suggests that Riesling was one of the partners but the other was Chasselas and not Silvaner. In any event, the resulting Muller-Thurgau product fulfilled the early ripening wish but not the hope of typical Riesling quality. Thus was born Muller-Thurgau wines.

This varietal has done well in the northernmost region of Italy known as the Trentino-Alto Adige. Trentino is the southern portion but the entire region is considered a model of enological efficiency. Cantina Sociale La Vis, this wine’s producer, is a cooperative of over 800 winegrowers. Maso Rocador refers to the vineyard’s location. Only 15,000 bottles are produced.

The wine’s initial notes are mineral-chalk in nature but after 15-30 minutes the apple and honey emerge to produce a combination of very fine aromatics. Crisp acidity, a medium body and smooth mouthfeel serve as the launching pad for the long fruity finish. Trout or Halibut would go well with this.
—Dr. Marty