Wine of the Week Profile
2002 Vegadeo, Verdejo

’02 Vegadeo Spanish White, Verdejo $7.99
When the discussion is about white wines derived from indigenous Spanish grapes, I think of Albarino, Verdejo and Godello. Those in the Basque country would mention Chacolis but from my standpoint the aforementioned trio are those that merit primary consideration. Of this threesome, Albarino is the best known, coming from Galicia’s Rias Baixas. Godello is from the Ribeira Sacra area in mid-Galicia and is beginning to attract justifiable attention. Verdejo, on the other hand, has been on the block for awhile but is beginning to move fast and is challenging Albarino for the number one spot.

Verdejo comes from Rueda in Old Castile, close to Toro. Even for the non-history buff, a temporary look back is interesting. During the 10^th century, as the Moors retreated southwards, they ravaged Rueda, turning it into an uninhabitable, virtual wasteland. It remained so for close to 100 years with the sole beneficiary being the soil which became fertile again and provided a home for both animal and vegetable life. One of the "vegetables" was an obscure grapevine called Verdejo. Not unexpectedly, with the return to normalcy in Rueda, Verdejo winemaking took off. The region prospered and provided much of the wine for the Castilian monarchs. The wine, however, was akin to Sherry, taking advantage of the fact that Verdejo oxidized very easily. Then came phylloxera in the late 19^th century and then the Spanish Civil War and the end to what Rueda winemaking had been before.

The Rueda renaissance began in the 70’s when white wine drinkers began clamoring for fresh, fruity, upfront wines similar to those coming from Germany. The White Knight proved to be someone very well-known in Rioja, namely Francisco Hurtado de Amezaga y Dolagray ("Paco" to his friends), director of Marques de Riscal. He felt Spain could make such a wine and began working with his former mentor, none other than the eminent Emile Peynaud from Bordeaux. Rueda became their site and with such modern technology as stainless steel vats, cool fermentation and blanketing the grapes, juice and fermenting wine with inert gas, Verdejo was reborn. The Riscal estate also pioneered the acceptance of Sauvignon Blanc in Rueda, and today Rueda wines can be 100% Verdejo, 100% Sauvignon Blanc or a blend of the two.

Our wine, Vegadeo, from the 2002 vintage, is 100% Verdejo and the result of the traditional winemaking of Rueda and modern technique. The color is medium straw and yes, it is clean, fresh, fruity and very upfront. On the nose, there are pear and peach scents with minerals in the background. Zingy acidity, a medium body and a refreshing mouthfeel come next followed by a long finish displaying the same notes as already found. This is a great aperitif and if any is left over, use it with the upcoming seafood…or just open another bottle of the same.

—Dr. Marty