Although found in small pockets elsewhere, Dolcetto is primarily a grape of the Langhe area of Piedmont, with Alba, Diano d’Alba and Dogliani producing the best Dolcettos. It’s part of Piedmont’s red wine hierarchy which has Nebbiolo (the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco) at the top, then Barbera and then Dolcetto. It fulfills this role nicely. It’s planted in areas where other grapes, including the more regal Nebbiolo, would not do well. This permits the vineyard owner to maximize his more valuable Nebbiolo plantings and still have his Dolcetto. Interestingly, too, Dolcetto is a precocious ripener, completing its growth up to four weeks before Nebbiolo and a few weeks before Barbera. This certainly makes things easier at the winery each fall at vendemmia time.

Dolcetto is characteristically soft, round and very fruity. It’s usually meant to be drunk within the first two or three years. Because of this, it can be marketed early and at a reasonable price while the estate’s Barberas, Barolos and Barbarescos are undergoing their extended ageing in cask and bottle. In Piedmont, this is the classic vino da tutto pasto: a wine for all day, everyday and an automatic choice at the beginning of almost every meal. Indeed, in some traditional Piemontese tratttorie there is no choice at all as a bottle of the local Dolcetto appears, unsolicited, at the same time as the cutlery. Known as the lifeblood of the Langaroli (the people of the Langhe), the story goes that if you analyzed one of their blood samples, it would contain at least 50% Dolcetto.

Bartolo Mascarello of the commune of Barolo is much better known as a Barolista (Barolo producer), and he is one of the most traditional of all the traditionalists. But, as with almost all the wine producers in the area, he also makes a very good Dolcetto. His 2000 edition has the typical ruby/purple coat. On the nose, cherry notes are in the forefront, with animal and chocolate scents in the background. An good acid level, soft tannins, a medium body and a smooth mouthfeel contribute nicely. The finish is long and loaded with cherry. This very agreeable Dolcetto tells you what Dolcetto is all about…and, yes, it does deserve some respect.

Foods to have with Dolcetto include pasta, risotto, chicken and veal. If you were in the Langhe, you could have insalata di carne cruda which translates as minced filet of beef marinated briefly with oil, lemon and peppers.

—Dr. Marty

“Bright, moderately saturated red-ruby. Sappy, complex, slightly reduced aromas of blackberry, licorice, mint and pepper, with a suggestion of honeysuckle. Fat, rich and concentrated, with rather idiosyncratic soil-driven flavors of wild berries, flint and minerals. Quite backward today owing to its strong acids. Firm-edged finish features dusty tannins and very good length.” —IWC 88