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Wine of the Week Profile, 7/12/04
2002 Domaine de Château Gaillard
Saumur Rouge


’02 Domaine de Château Gaillard Saumur Rouge $14.49
’02 Domaine de Château Gaillard Saumur Rouge $14.49
Biodynamic viticulture is currently a hot phrase being heard throughout the viticultural world. What is it you ask? Biodynamic viticulture, or "Biodynamie" as it is called in France, takes organic viticultural practices to another plane. According to Jancis Robinson, biodynamic viticulturists believe the soil is an "integral part of the symbiosis between planet, air and cosmos." Dung compost, horn dung and horn silica are used for the soil, roots and aiding of the photosynthesis, respectively. To further the symbiosis, timing of vineyard work from vine pruning and organic fertilizer application to grape harvesting is determined by the position of the earth within the solar system. Fervent practioners can be found at all hours of the day and night working in their vineyards. Those who practice the religion of Biodynamie believe the rhythms of nature will produce healthier fruit and consequently better wine. After tasting Château Gaillard, I am a convert to the ways of Biodynamie.

Mathieu Bouchet, who is the producer of Domaine de Château Gaillard, is one ardent Biodynamie believer. He is the son of François Bouchet, who is one of the most influential Biodynamie consultants within France. François Bouchet counts Domaine Leroy and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti as two of his clients. Like his father, Mathieu Bouchet strictly follows the practice of Biodynamic viticulture. In addition to the above practices, Mr. Bouchet maintains low yields within his vineyards which are only 5 hectare (12.5 acres) in size. For this superior Saumur, approximately 2,000 cases of the 2002 vintage were produced. Of the small production, only 100 cases were imported into the United States.

For all his labor, Mr. Bouchet has produced the best Saumur I have ever tasted. Medium ruby in color, Gaillard’s Saumur is filled with expressive tart cherry, red currant and candied cola spices as well as leather notes. On the palate, an attack of Cabernet Franc acidity is followed by soft tannins. Many Loire Valley Cabernet Francs are a stalky green on the nose and palate. Not Gaillard’s Saumur. Not only is this Saumur tasty, but the weight and acidity level of Cabernet Franc make this wine a perfect everyday food and summer wine. Domaine de Château Gaillard’s Saumur can span the food spectrum from salads and chilled soups to grilled vegetables and meats. Enjoy this great Saumur and taste the bounty of the Biodynamic world. Enjoy!

—Scott





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