A consulting winemaker who has built a considerable reputation is Stéphane Dereroncourt. He came to Bordeaux twenty years ago from humble beginnings: his father was a steel worker in Dunkirk. Stéphane worked a few vintages as a picker, and in this way, he learned the craft and tradition of winemaking "in the trenches" rather than in a degree program at the viticole. Dereroncourt’s first vintage was 1982 in Fronsac (like the Côtes de Castillon, one of the less-fashionable Bordeaux appellations) and about ten years later, he took a position at the prestigious Château Pavie Macquin. Dereroncourt’s 1993 Château Pavie drew raves and much positive review for the winemaker. Soon Stéphane met Comte Stephan von Neipperg, owner of Château Canon La Gaffeliere in St. Emilion, who was impressed enough to hire the young winemaker to work at his property. Neipperg’s confidence in Dereroncourt’s ability was borne out with the 1996 vintage of the cult Bordeaux, La Mondotte, which earned wide acclaim. Stéphane Dereroncourt was the consulting oenologist for the 2000 Clos Puy Arnaud, which has earned strong notices from wine reviewers Robert Parker and Steven Tanzer.

Thierry Valette is owner and winemaker at Clos Puy Arnaud. The Valette family owns Château Troplong Mondot, and once owned Château Pavie. The property is located in the A.O.C. of Castillon-la-Bataille, a commune within the larger Côtes de Castillon appellation, and Valette purchased the 18-acre vineyard in 2000. After three stellar vintages, Clos Puy Arnaud has joined other fine chateaux in the appellation. "Potentially," says Valette, "the Côtes de Castillon can be as good as Saint-Emilion. If you taste blind, there is no difference. And it doesn’t have the rigid classification of Saint-Emilion, it’s like a new world."

Valette’s opinions are borne out in the glass. The sumptuous, plush attack of the 2000 Clos Puy Arnuad begins with brambly, dark berry, black cherry and raspberry aromas with traces of sage and savory herbs. On the mid-palate, the wine’s character is very poised, as all the berry aromas become lush fruit flavors. A slightly ascending acidity integrates with soft, noble tannins and the overall impression is one of finely polished fruit. This bottle embodies the reason why Bordeaux fanatics wax endlessly about "layers of enveloping fruit to get lost in." Similar to the best wines of Bordeaux, the 2000 Clos Puy Arnaud has a beguiling, seductive quality that is irresistible, and it compares favorably with many Bordeaux that cost many times its price. Enjoy this wine with grilled meats, game, venison, pheasant, turkey and grilled chicken. You couldn’t find a better wine to match with your holiday meals. Bon Apetit et Santé!

—Chris