In 1796 during the Napoleonic Wars Napoleon decided against advancing through Alto Adige’s Brenner Pass to Innsbruck and Vienna. The local clergy became convinced that their prayers to halt the French troops had been answered by God. This story has become local legend. The Brenner Pass now has less strategic importance, but it remains logistically a vital passage for travelers from Austria to the Mediterranean. The Brenner Pass contains the Valle Isarco (‘Eisacktal’ in German), a "sweet spot" of 238 hectares of prime winegrowing land between the town of Castelrotto northeast of Bolzano and Novacella north of Bressanone. Now farmed by a passionate group of young winemakers, the pioneer who first drew attention to Valle Isarco’s wines is Peter Pliger. The other "young lions" in the area universally admire and respect Pliger’s methods and his desire to allow the vineyard’s expressions to become manifest in the wines he carefully nurtures. Pliger and the rest of the area’s growers employ similar winemaking methods (i.e. organic farming, stainless steel and acacia vats with no barrique, no malolactic fermentation) to produce what Gambero Rosso deems "[wines of] amazing minerality and complexity. They need long aging before expressing themselves with depth and fascinating luminosity."

The Cantina Terlano cooperative was one of the earliest grower cooperatives in the South Tyrol, founded in 1893. Twenty-four wine growers formed a partnership for joint production, sales and marketing. Currently, Terlano’s roughly 100 members farm 150 hectares and produce 1.2 million bottles per year. For the area, this is a small cooperative, and the lower annual production ensures a higher level of quality. Rudi Kofler is the winemaker, overseeing a production of 50% red and 50% white wines—all produced under the DOC. Terlano has three quality categories: Classico, Single Vineyard and Varietal Selections. Library wines are kept in a special "vinotheque" section of its cellar, where 12,000 bottles age slowly to maturity. Some older bottles date back to the Cantina’s inception. Terlano wines have been winning international competitions for over a century (Munich Wine Festival in 1896 and a silver medal at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900).

In general, Alto Adige’s climate factors (high altitude vineyards, gravel/porphyry soils, cool mountain breezes and warm air from Lake Garda) combine to form favorable growing conditions. Located about 10 km northwest of the town of Bolzano, Cantina Terlano has excellent vineyard sites situated at the foot of Mount Tschöggel. The southfacing exposures are ideal for grape ripening, while the vineyard’s porphyry rocks retain heat and sandy soils have good drainage, keeping the vines roots dry. The 2003 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco classico comes from low-yeilding vineyards at 300-600 meters in elevation. The wine undergoes a temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel vat before aging on the fine lees for six months.

The 2003 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco classico shows very aromatic apple blossoms, honey and wet stone notes in the glass. On the palate, the wine begins with a crisp, clean character like ripe Golden Delicious apple. As it builds on the palate it shows a sweet, creamy character with supple, tangy acidity like Granny Smith apple and finishes in mouth-cleansing fashion. Pair this wine with pan-fried sea scallops in five spices, fish or shellfish. Even sausage and lighter meat dishes will benefit from this Terlano’s clean acidity. This wine is an great price/value bargin, and, if you’re interested in how well-made, aromatic whites can age, this will develop for another five years.

—Chris

“Really wonderful, with ultraclean and focused aromas of mineral, chalk, and apple. Full-bodied yet balanced, with good acidity and a long, creamy finish. Drink now. 6,000 cases made.” —WS 91