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Wine of the Week Profile, 11/21/05
2003 Viñedos Alonso del Yerro Ribera del Duero “Alonso del Yerro”

2003 Viñedos Alonso del Yerro Ribera del Duero “Alonso del Yerro” $23.99
The Ribera del Duero DO has continued to generate intense interest as one of the hottest regions in Spain, both among Spanish wine producers and Spanish wine lovers all over the world. The wines of Ribera are seriously structured reds that display a hearty character of focused fruit and acidity with herbal, spicy, crushed ripe black cherry aromas and flavors and substantial tannins. Ribera reds have an abundance of nuance and complexity to compliment their considerable structure and heft, and the best Riberas combine power and finesse as well as the finest bold reds from Bordeaux, Barolo and Napa. Welcome news to Ribera wine lovers is that, in addition to “mid-level” Crianzas, many bodegas are now releasing “entry-level” or “Joven” wines meant to be consumed upon release and PJ Wine stocks many of these wines for under $25.

Javier Alonso and María del Yerro are the married couple that own this property (Javier’s family owns the land, in addition to other large bodegas in Ribera and Rioja), and Javier left his lucrative pharmaceutical business so the couple could pursue their dream to make a high-quality wine utilizing excellent fruit from prime vineyard sites in Ribera. Located in northern Ribera del Duero near the towns of Roa and La Horra, their vineyards are next to those that produce grapes used by Pingus, Aalto and Mariano Garcia’s project Astrales. This is one of the two “sweet spots” for Ribera vineyard sites that make wines with distinctive personalities. Javier and María have not skimped on quality; they hired renowned French consulting enologist Stephane Derenoncourt to head up every aspect of vineyard management and winemaking.

Along both sides of the serpentine Duero River, the rugged terrain of Ribera del Duero has a beauty borne of extremes. It is remarkably dry, with brownish red soil rich in iron, gypsum, chalk and other trace minerals, and a scarcity of vegetation, it’s perfect for growing vines, but the area’s short, four-month growing season followed by a constant threat of frost make vineyard work very difficult, and it must be executed skillfully with a meticulous attention to detail.

The 100% Tinto Fino grapes for this wine come from four separate plots totaling 30 Hectares at an elevation of 800-840 meters. The vines are planted at a dense 2,850 vines per Hectare and yields are kept to a low 30 Hectoliters/Hectare. There is a strict selection process in the vineyards during picking, followed by a severe “double triage” sorting, both before and after de-stemming. After manual picking, the grapes are transported to the winery in 12 kg crates to protect the fruit. This wine was fermented for 15 days followed by a 23-day extended maceration in stainless steel tanks at a high 30° C to extract optimal color and soft tannins. Following fermentation, the wine completed a malolactic fermentation in new French oak barrels before aging on the lees for 12 months with regular stirring of the lees (batonnage).

This harmonious wine displays wonderful aromas of very ripe, black cherry and wild herbs with smoky, gamey notes and traces of anise. On the palate, the beautiful ripe and juicy cherry flavors are almost confectionary. Well-defined acidity helps carry the wine’s considerable size with finesse and the gentle tannins make for a long, elegant finish. Pair this wine with roasted pork tenderloin and rosemary, porterhouse steak and wild mushrooms or other rich, hearty fare. Muy Bueno!

–Chris

“The 2003 Alonso del Yerro is a beautiful, elegant effort emphasizing finesse, sweet tannin, and plenty of texture. Complex aromas of smoke, anise, roasted coffee, black currants, and figs emerge from the glass of this medium to full-bodied, rich, seamlessly constructed 2003. It can be consumed now and over the next 7-8 years.” —WA 91

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