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Wine of the Week Profile, 12/12/05
2003 Domaine D’Andézon Côtes-du-Rhône

2003 Domaine D’Andézon Côtes-du-Rhône2003 Domaine D’Andézon Côtes-du-Rhône $9.99
Domaine d’Andézon is a 25-acre property in Estézargues, a picturesque small village on the western edge of the Côtes-du-Rhône appellation, southwest of the villages of Lirac and Tavel. This region has a consistently warm summer climate, and its proximity to the sea imparts a rich, ripe Mediterranean influence to its grapes. The floor of the organically farmed Andézon vineyard is blanketed in large, round stones (galets) similar to those found in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. These stones store heat in the day’s sun and then slowly radiate it in the evening. The rugged terrain has low, red hills covered with garrigue and aromatic herbs that perfume the area in the spring and summer.

The Lamouroux family has run this estate for over thirty years. Today, the children of the original owners are at the helm, upholding the family motto: "It is by the work of the ground that one arrives at quality."

Remarkably, this winemaking family has managed to maintain both a commitment to high quality vineyard management and to very reasonable prices for its very low-yielding, eighty year-old Syrah vines. Until 1994, the wine from these grapes was sold to the large Rhône producer, Marcel Guigal, but importer Eric Solomon convinced the family growers to make their own wine. He began bottling his selection, without filtration, under the Domaine d’Andézon name. Andézon was one of the first custom cuvées Eric Solomon created. It was an immediate success.

Unusual for Côtes du Rhône wines, which are usually made from a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache, the 2003 Domaine D’Andézon Côtes du Rhône is made from 100% Syrah from 60- to 100-year-old vines. The grapes are destemmed and a long maceration in tank occurs before fermentation. No sulfur is added, and the wine is bottled without filtration. There is a 15-20 day maceration period before aging, mostly in tank, with a small percentage aged in foudre for added complexity. There is a small amount of pumping over (remontage) to extract beneficial color and ripe tannins before transfer to barrel.

The 2003 Domaine d’Andézon Côtes du Rhône has deep, peppery, red cherry aromas with notes of herbs and a definite tinge of bacon fat. On the palate, the wine’s cherry flavors are very pretty with linear acidity, a charmingly juicy character and very soft tannins. Pair this with steak au poivre, spicy beef, lamb sausage or stews. This is a Syrah that gains appeal with every moment. It is without a doubt a remarkable wine for the price.

—Chris

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