The majority of quality California Pinot Noirs are priced over $20 a bottle and casual wine drinkers are reluctant to spend this much for an “everyday” Pinot-based table wine. Unfortunately, the high cost of growing and bottling Pinot Noir has made it difficult for California winemakers to produce good $10-$15 Pinots. Lately, however, some good, affordable Pinots have become available.

The 2004 Chalone Vineyard Monterey County Pinot Noir is a standout entry into the value Pinot Noir catagory. Chalone Vineyard produces reasonably priced, but excellently crafted Merlot, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. Its parent company, Chalone Wine Group, sells California wines under the brand names of Acacia, Canoe Ridge, Chalone, Echelon, Edna Valley, Jade Mountain and Provenance. In Washington State, the Chalone Wine Group produces Canoe Ridge and Sagelands.

The general manager and winemaker at Chalone Vineyard is Dan Karlsen, whose experience is impressive. He joined Dry Creek Vineyards as a harvest worker in 1981, and stayed for 4 years. In 1985, renowned Pinot guru Tom Dehlinger selected Dan as assistant winemaker at Dehlinger Winery. With Tom as mentor, Dan developed his viticulture and vinification techniques. “Tom really taught me to make wines based on flavor, not chemistry,” says Dan. In 1988, Dan was hired as assistant winemaker at Domaine Carneros, becoming winemaker in 1992. Five years later, he became winemaker for Estancia Estates, overseeing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir production. Dan joined Chalone Vineyard in January 1998 as general manager and winemaker. “I make the kind of wines I like to drink. Lots of flavor, great mouthfeel, ready to drink upon release. Luckily, that’s what most people like to drink, too.”

Most of the fruit for this superb value Pinot comes from hilly vineyards west of the Salinas Valley in Monterey County including the cool, wind-swept Arroyo Seco area of the Santa Lucia Highlands. A little further northeast is the Chalone AVA, which has limestone-based soils that are unique to the area. Chalone Vineyard is the sole winery with vines in this AVA. The region is noted for large day/night temperature swings (90°F during the day to 50°F at night), a long growing season and extended “hang times” that result in optimally ripe, concentrated fruit with dense, complex and defined aromas and flavors on the palate.

This Pinot has ripe, sweet, crushed red cherry aromas and very juicy flavors on the palate. It has a remarkably well-behaved character and very appealing fruit for this price point. Pair this with duck, roast chicken or pork tenderloin with wild herbs. This is a whole lot of wine for relatively little money.

—Chris