From this unique region comes one of my favorite apéritifs, Vin du Bugey. It is made from a blend of the well known Gamay and the lesser known Poulsard variety that was adopted from the nearby region of Jura. This is a delicious semi-dry, pink bubbly made by spontaneous, but incomplete, fermentation, which adds a festive appeal to every sip.

Alain Renardart and his son Elie harvest the grapes by hand. The grapes are then pressed and fermented in cold vats until the alcohol reaches about 6 degrees. After a light filtration that leaves most of the active yeast in the unfinished wine, the wine is bottled and continues to ferment in the bottle, where it reaches about 7.5 or 8 degrees of alcohol and retains a fair quantity of its original sugar.

With its pretty strawberry jam nose, delicate berry flavor, touch of sweetness and light alcohol, Vin du Bugey is an ideal accompaniment to informal parties and a dramatic match up at wedding receptions. This sparkling rosé makes a delicious apéritif and works magic with fresh fruit tarts or chocolate cake.

—Donald