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Wine of the Week Profile, 05/15/06
2004 Goisot Saint-Bris Fié Gris “Corps de Garde Gourmand”

04 Goisot Saint-Bris’04 Goisot Saint-Bris Fié Gris “Corps de Garde Gourmand” $17.99
For Ghislaine and Jean-Hughes Goisot, the greatness of their wines begins in the vineyard—with organic farming. Organic winemaking produces wines with very distinctive character, mirroring the soils in which they are grown. Strict soil management stimulates the natural defenses of the vines and protects against bad weather, insect infestation and mold spreading diseases. Highly restricted yields produce intensified, character-driven wines with rich flavors. Located in the northwest of Burgundy, the cooler climate of Saint-Bris helps the Goisots produce a more refined wine with much more minerality than many whites found west of Chablis and a richness and complexity of flavors unheard of further south in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Fié Gris is the ancestor of Sauvignon Blanc and is also known as Sauvignon Rosé. The vines produce very low yields with great density and length making the grape superior to Sauvignon Blanc in many ways. It boast aromatics that are enchanting and exotic without being excessive. Fié Gris could be compared to a very fine Alsatian Pinot Gris, but it shows a more austere elegance. The Goisots’ tiny plot of young vines provides only small quantities of wine. Only 30 cases were imported to the US, but we were lucky enough to get the lion’s share, and they are going very fast.

The Goisot Fié Gris “Corps de Garde Gourmand” provides lovely round mineral tones with pretty white flowers on the nose and the slightest suggestion of nougat. The palate opens with perfumed citrus notes that gradually turn to apricot, then dovetail into an ample ginger finish backed by moderate acidity. Each new sip offers a new discovery in the glass. We recommend serving it with salmon and fennel, spring aspargus, porcini mushroom pasta, or simply by itself.

—Donald

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