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Wine of the Week Profile 08/21/06
2003 Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese

’03 Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese $22.97
The Reichsrat von Buhl estate is one of the most respected wineries in Germany and has been in existence for over 200 years. Owner Achim Niederberger recently invested millions in new cellar facilities and has modernized vineyard operations. The von Buhl estate is located in the Pfalz, an important region in Southern Germany that is known for the purity of its wines. The winery produces critically acclaimed wines and has created treasured gems for centuries.

Part of the reason for their success is that special attention is paid to yield reduction and selective harvesting in the vineyards. The Riesling grown in the Jesuitengarten site is praised for its fine fruity minerality and almost inexhaustible finish. These vines are planted in a multi-layered soil composed of loess (fine, silty, windblown soil from very fine ground glacial deposits), which provides ample minerality, and thick veins of clay, which allow the vines to retain plenty of moisture throughout the dry summer months. The soil is highly complex and the wines created here mirror that complexity. The grapes are harvested in stages based on the degree of ripeness and are carefully selected on the vine in up to five consecutive passes through the vineyard.

After harvest the grapes are pneumatically pressed. Initial fermentation is brisk and then controlled by cooling to achieve a clean wine with pure fruit aromas and high natural carbon-dioxide content. After a careful filtration without fining they employ their cool, long“over 2 km”vaulted cellar for long maturation of the wine in stainless steel tanks, which binds the fresh acidity into the wine and contributes to its harmonious character. This reductive method helps to maintain the natural varietal and geographic character of the wines. Constant quality controls from harvest through to bottling guarantee fine, fruity and clean wines.

This wine is a pretty golden color in the glass. Aromas of bright mountain flowers, beeswax, apricots, a suggestion of petrol and sea coast spray dazzle the nose. The substantial palate offers green apple flavors, which interplay with warm pear, super ripe tangerine, subtle kiwi tones and a hint of mint leaf. A warm candle wax quality gradually emerges on the finish and steeps the wine's zippy acidity with a lingering elegance. We highly recommend serving this wine with fiery shrimp, spicy grilled chicken or barbecued pork dishes.

—Donald

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