Côtes de Castillon lies about 10 miles east of St. Emilion on a continuation of St. Emilion's limestone plateau. The appellation is an upstart compared to its considerably pricier neighbor. As a result, producers who have the courage and tenacity to toil a bit closer to the margins enjoy greater freedom to experiment in their vineyards and bring new polish and finesse to the region.

Château d’Aiguilhe is comprised of 107 hectares, of which 42 are organically farmed with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The vines are exposed due south, planted on clay-limestone soils with good drainage and are an average of 30 years old. The 2002 vintage was not considered a barnstormer, but I was really taken by this wine—especially its freshness and balance.

With blooming meadow flowers, liquid mineral tones, wild herbs, dark bramble and berry aromas, this wine is showing beautifully right now. Juicy, ripe plum and blackberries tied to linear acidity gives the wine an extremely long finish and bodes well for aging. Perfect with pan fried duck breast, braised lamb shoulder, roast beef or steaks.

—Donald