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Wine of the Week Profile 09/25/06
2003 Lackner-Tinnacher Gelber Muskateller

’03 Lackner-Tinnacher Gelber Muskateller $19.49
Located in the furthest, southern-most wine growing region in Austria, Südsteiermark, you’ll find Lackner-Tinnacher. The winery was founded in 1770. Today, it is run by the highly talented Fritz and Wilma Tinnacher. The vines are parceled out on 17 hectares of steep, rocky slopes at 400 to 500 meters above sea level.

This highly elegant Gelber Muskateller is a stunning introduction to the world of high-quality Austrian wines. These wines are so often overlooked and underappreciated here in the United States that now is an ideal time to become initiated. The Südsteiermark region benefits from a maritime influence from the nearby Adriatic and from deep mineral deposits in the vineyards. Close attention to detail and a centuries old winemaking tradition make for a stellar intro to Austrian wines.

The nose has a deep inflection of blooming mountain flowers, sea coast and a slight suggestion of ginger. The palate is carried along by ripe pears, figs, and melon tones that interplay beautifully with a briny minerality. This white has a lovely mouthfeel and a subtle lift of acidity completes the first sip. We highly recommend this Muskateller with pan seared skate, octopus salad, pork schnitzel with plenty of lemon and creamy fish dishes. It is an ideal white for autumn.

—Donald

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