The overwhelming demand for René Rostaing's wines and the cult-like status he has earned for his high end Côte Rôties has lead him to branch out and procure several parcels of ancient Syrah vines around Côte Rôtie and Condrieu. From these vines René produces exquisite non-appellation wines, both white and red, called “Les Lézardes”. French law prohibits non-AOC vins de table, like Les Lézardes, from officially bearing a vintage. However, the vintage of this old vines Syrah is 2003. As a poor man’s Côte Rôtie, Les Lézardes is a fantastic bargain, exhibiting a truly hedonistic taste of the Northern Rhône in the excellent 2003 vintage.

The nose is marked by vibrant, classic smoky minerals, black fruit, game, bacon fat, violets, cassis and dusty tar and cinnamon notes. The palate is an extraordinary expression of rich, ripe, black and red fruit, more bacon fat, warm saddle leather notes, and candied violet nuances. Good acidity and elegant silken tannins create a powerful finish. Now that cooler nights are upon us, this baby Côte Rôtie will be ideal with lamb, roasted game, steak, spicy grilled sausages, or Cassoulet.

—Donald