Kesselstatt uses a dozen tiny vineyard sites, all with their own individual microclimates. A total of 38 hectares (94 acres) are planted exclusively with Riesling and produce 25,000 to 30,000 cases of wine per year. The winery vinifies the entire Riesling harvest from all of its vineyards at their Schloss Marienlay facility. Only natural yeasts are used to achieve spontaneous fermentation, with extended fine-lees contact used as one of the preferred techniques to accentuate the delicate Riesling fruit aromas. For each vintage, Bernward Keiper's main objective is to preserve the profile of each individual vineyard site as well as to underscore the refreshing fruit acids of this delicate grape, in order to bring out the Riesling varietal's unique expression.

The staff shared a bottle of this Kabinett last Saturday at lunch, or rather, they watched in bemusement as I had most of the bottle, while we enjoyed a delicious, spicy Pibil pork stew. The wine’s dazzling green apple aromas backed by slate minerality are a sexy precursor to the satin palate. Rich green apple flavors are offset by notes of ginger, white pepper and a hint of cool mint leaves that are levitated by silken acidity, racing across the palate. At the tasting, this was an ideal match with the piquant Yucatan stew. It will also pair beautifully with a host of fiery Szechuan dishes or traditional German fare. I cannot recommend this wine highly enough and encourage you to hurry in and pick some up before I take the remaining cases home.

—Donald

“The 2004 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett represents a single 2,000-case bottling. Smelling enticingly of white grapefruit, lime, and black currant, in the mouth it is like the alter-ego of the Josephshofer: all brisk and luscious fruit acidity and citrus. For a wine this clear and invigorating, one is willing to sacrifice cuddly creaminess. The finish positively shimmers, with abundant grapefruit and black fruits, in a dynamic exchange with salts and slate.” —WA 90