Belgian wine lover Baron Velge bought the 23 hectare vineyard of Château Clauzet in 1997. Since then, the ’03 vintage has been its best by far. Thanks to the region’s northernmost location in the Haut Médoc, it escaped the heat of 2003 that dried out many of the vines further to the south. The soil consist of heavy gravel resting on a compact sandstone base. The wine shows great richness and a high level of finesse for a wine from St.-Estèphe. Its predominance of jammy Merlot truly shines through in this gem. The ’03 Clauzet boasts dramatic balance and surprising freshness.

Purple with shimmering highlights in the glass. The predominance of Merlot is evident in the ripe red cherry and plum scents with red pepper nuances on the nose, while the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon provides an infusion of smoky black cherry and the Cabernet Franc gives this blend a lovely mineral backbone with a trace of cedar and herb. The palate is plush with black fruits that are carried along on a supple velvet core of minerality, warm wood smoke, and a hint of meat. A dollop of acidity provides a graceful lift. I enjoyed a bottle of this impressive Bordeaux value with stewed lamb over polenta—a perfect match. This wine will also pair well with an array of hearty stews, roasts, steaks, game and strong cheeses. A lot of ripe Bordeaux for the price.

—Donald