Located in the very heart of the Saint Chinian, an oft overlooked diamond in the very heart of the Langedoc, the Tabatau vineyard consist of small parcels of ancient vine Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Aramon and Chenançon, that average 80 to 100 years per parcel. Bruno and Jean-Paul farm organically as their forefathers did and have made great use of traditional wine making techniques that have been handed down over the generations.

A rugged terroir consisting of a clay-limestone soil that is 250-300 meters above sea level, a constant dry Mediterranean climate and violent cold winter winds from the nearby Pyrenees Mountains add a decidedly rustic edge to a highly elegant and refined interpretation of traditional Southern French winemaking.

Of all the wines that PJ’s carries from Southern France Lo Tabataire is one of my all time favorites. Only 10 cases of this wine were imported into the US and as a result of my enthusiasm we purchased all of them. This old vine blend offers up a dense nose of blackberry and cassis with nuances of cigar smoke, a warm snifter of XO cognac and a deep inflection of windswept rock thyme. The highly expressive palate bursts forth with crushed black fruit, saddle leather and sun baked stone notes. I highly recommend pairing this with hearty stews, braised lamb, sweetbreads, grilled sirloin steak, herb encrusted chicken, and aged cheeses now. Or you can age this gem for a decade and see what brilliance will surface in the bottle then.

—Donald