On just 5.8 hectares of some of the top vineyard sites in the heart of the Rheingau, Johannes Leitz' vines thrive in weathered slate soils. He maximizes the ripeness of his fruit without sacrificing the grapes’ more subtle elements. Highly respected importer Terry Theise notes that Leitz Rieslings “have the lusty vitality of wines that were never racked; he bottles them off the gross lees from the casks in which they fermented.” The result is great purity and richness.

The 2005 Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz offers a fragrant nose of caramelized pears with a touch of honey, which helps create a provocative invitation of what is to come. The palate has plenty of bright round pear flavors, creamy hints of melon, a bit of fresh ginger and a suggestion of creamy peaches. Moderate, integrated acidity and plenty of supple fruit make this an ideal Riesling to serve with a vast array of traditional German dishes, spicy seafood or simply by itself along with good conversation.

—Donald