The Loire region is best known for its white wines, where the Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc grapes reign supreme. However, the region’s reds—primarily made from Cabernet Franc, such as in Chinon, along with Gamay, and Pinot Noir—have long been staples of bistros in France. They are gaining greater prominence in the United States because of their fruity, easy-going and food-friendly style, although some like Chinon and Bourgeuil can be quite ageworthy.

J. Mourat produces terrific organic wines, and is situated in the Mareuil section of the Fiefs Vendéens sub-region of the Loire Valley, which is south of the Muscadet appellation off the Atlantic coast. One of the notable aspects of J. Mourat's “Collection” is that it includes the red grape variety Négrette, which is rarely used outside the Southwest of France. Négrette is a supple and perfumed black grape variety that lends fragrance and backbone to wines traditionally crafted in the Southwest, most prominently in the Côtes du Frontonnais. Yet it has found its way into this unique and flavorful Loire Valley find.

J. Mourat’s 2005 “Collection” is a unique, affordable, medium-bodied red blended from Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Négrette grapes. It won a Silver Medal at the Vinalies Internationales des Oenologues de France in 2006. It is dark ruby with black ink highlights in the glass and features a nose dominated by rich black cherry, smoky tar and a slight hint of vegetal earthiness. The palate is a deep and complex blend of black cherry and buoyant strawberry flavors with pencil shaving and smoked meat notes that are backed with good acidity. This expressive value needs to breathe a bit so we suggest decanting twenty minutes prior to serving. It is exceptionally satisfying when paired with food, and an ideal match with herb encrusted roast chicken, pork loin, veal stew or veined cheese.

—Donald