By training his Tocai vines along vertical trellis with bilateral Guyot systems, Badin maximizes the vines' exposure to the sun on his south-facing vineyards. The dry, rich marley soil along with the mild maritime climate, cool mountain nights, and significantly low yields are all working in his favor while he crafts wines of dramatic elegance and great purity. Ronco del Gelso's Tocai has been made from a careful selection of hand-harvested grapes. They are put through a soft press and then fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks after being inoculated with yeasts cultivated at the vineyard, and without any malolactic fermentation.

This sophisticated yet affordable white offers a nose of blossoming mountain flowers, fresh fig, a warm herbaceous note and the slightest suggestion of eucalyptus-inflected herbs. The medium- to full-bodied palate is a kaleidoscopic medley of honeydew melon, juicy lemon and bright fig flavors with a hint of fresh marjoram. A deft note of acidity illuminates its fruity, herbal character and leads into a clean, long finish. It showed brilliantly with homemade potato gnocchi in a creamy wild mushroom sauce. It will also pair well with seafood risotto dishes, skate sautéed in sweet butter, chicken tajine or roast chicken or pork.

—Donald