The Cardeal house exemplifies this dramatic change. The ’01 Reserva is made from Touriga Nacional, the finest grape grown in the region and one of the mainstays of Porto. The grapes are sourced throughout Dão and processed and bottled at Cardeal’s winery in Rio Maior. The grapes are macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. The wine is then bottled and aged in the wineries cellars for a few years.

This outstanding red wine value offers concentrated notes of plum, boysenberry, blueberry and a hint of wild herbs on the nose. These scents are a fantastic forward to the super-saturated dark plum, ripe berry fruits and supple mineral tones that make up this full-bodied and highly elegant red’s substantial backbone. This Dão is an ideal match with hearty cold weather dishes. Try it with traditional Portuguese fare such as grilled beef short ribs or thick, tender pork chops grilled and seasoned with garlic and spices or with a skirt steak with a Béarnaise sauce over thick homemade fries. That is how I enjoyed this affordable gem and it was truly a match made in heaven.

—Donald