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Wine of the Week Profile 02/12/07
2005 Ònix Priorat “Clàssic”

05 Onix Priorat, Classic’05 Ònix Priorat “Clàssic” $11.49
This choice selection of late harvested and low yielding Cariñena and Grenache grapes has been sourced from steep hillside vineyards that have survived extraordinarily dry conditions on beds of slate or “Licorella”. Priorat's arid climate and complete lack of soil force these ancient vines very deep (up to 30 meters!) into narrow crevices in the bedrock to get at the moisture they need to produce fruit. The resulting grapes tend to be highly concentrated and complex, and the wine yielded from these hearty vines then provides a very dramatic and affordable introduction into the stunning wines from perhaps the most remote and certainly one of the harshest wine growing regions on the planet.

The grapes are harvest by hand at their maximum ripeness and then destemmed by hand. The utmost care is taken at the coop to guarantee that the grapes undergo a gentle press in order to preserve the wine’s freshness. A one month vinification occurs in large temperature controlled stainless steel vats. The wine then sees a year in new French oak or “vi de guarda” before it is bottled.

This value Priorat is one of the few quality wines available from this top Spanish region at everyday pricing. It is dark ruby in the glass with shimmering amethyst highlights. Juicy plum and warm blackberry scents are backed by notes of powdery cocoa and a hint of baked brown slate terroir. Ample red cherry and black plum fruit explode on the palate and are followed by a dazzling suggestion of ultra-ripe candied raspberries. Moderate acidity lends great lift to the middle and the lingering, rustic-edged finish. I had this gem with a medium-rare Porter House smothered in caramelized onions and a side of buttery mashed potatoes, and yes it was perfect. This Priorat will also work its magic with hearty winter dishes, roasts and strong cheeses.

—Donald

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