Although these Chenin Blanc vines are relatively young, the concentration of fruit and terroir found on the nose and palate is truly impressive. Because François farms organically, the terroir in the wine speaks volumes. Low yields and the fact that he waits until the last possible moment to harvest means that the fruit on the palate is penetratingly expressive and dramatically concentrated.

This gorgeous Vouvray is a beautiful, pale, golden straw color in the glass with honeyed highlights. The word dynamic doesn’t even begin to describe the nose, which consists of deep pear, fig, honey, clove and granite scents with hints of freshly grated ginger and stone-ground wheat. The palate is equally expressive/impressive with flavors of ultra ripe pear, guava paste and ample notes of wet stone that are backed by a subtle lift of acidity. I had this with duck paté over freshly baked bread and some triple smoked kielbasa dabbed with spicy mustard. It was just perfect. This medium-dry Chenin Blanc will also be perfect with a warm goat cheese salad, beets and walnuts or richer dishes like grilled chicken liver.

—Donald