What makes rosé so great for summer is that it combines the flavor and body of a light red with the crisp acidity of a palate-refreshing white. The long, lingering, dry finish of a rosé provides another big plus. All these characteristics are related to the way the wine is vinified. The major factor involved in this is the short maceration of the grape juice with the grape skins after crushing. It’s during this time that the color, flavor and small amounts of tannins are extracted from the skins. The juice is then separated from the skins and fermentation proceeds as in white winemaking.

Château Grande Cassagne is a small estate on the western edge of the Rhône Valley run by the Darde brothers, whose first vintage was fourteen years ago. The property is near the village of Saint-Gilles, where the land rises to expose a boulder-strewn plateau much like the one at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Over the years, Château Grande Cassagne has developed a reputation for very high-quality Rhône wines at exceptional prices.

The 2006 rosé is a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah. A light ruby-salmon in the glass, it is fully loaded with depth, complexity and personality. On the palate rich, lively strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavors are present. It shows impressive balance, medium body, a smooth mouthfeel and a persistent, crisp, dry finish.

—Donald