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Wine of the Week Profile 05/28/07
2005 Goisot Saint-Bris Fié Gris “Corps de Garde Gourmand”

’05 Goisot Saint-Bris Fié Gris “Corps de Garde Gourmand” $17.49
2005 Goisot Saint-Bris Fie Gris Corps de Garde GourmandFor Ghislaine and Jean-Hughes Goisot, the greatness of their wines begins in the vineyard—with organic farming. Organic winemaking produces wines with very distinctive character, mirroring the soils in which they are grown. Strict soil management stimulates the natural defenses of the vines and protects against bad weather, insect infestation and mold spreading diseases. Highly restricted yields produce intensified, character-driven wines with rich flavors. Located in the northwest of Burgundy, the cooler climate of Saint-Bris helps the Goisots produce a more refined wine with much more minerality than many whites found west of Chablis and a richness and complexity of flavors unheard of further south in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Fié Gris is the ancestor of Sauvignon Blanc and is also known as Sauvignon Rosé. The vines produce very low yields with great density and length making the grape superior to Sauvignon Blanc in many ways. It boast aromatics that are enchanting and exotic without being excessive. Fié Gris could be compared to a very fine Alsatian Pinot Gris, but it shows a more austere elegance. The Goisots’ tiny plot of young vines provides only small quantities of wine.

This refined and affordable white Burgundy offers a nose of delicate floral notes, which meld beautifully with subtle tones of warm stone minerality and a suggestion of honeysuckle blossom. On the palate lemony flavors are inflected with chalky minerality. Deft notes of sweet summer melon elegantly build through the mid-palate. Vibrant terroir driven acidity provides backbone and carries into a long, nuanced finish. Ideal with shellfish, grilled shrimp, lobster, pork loin in a cream sauce or soft ripened cheeses.

—Donald

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