Sadly both Jean-François and his wife passed away and the estate is now managed by their daughter, Nathalie Olek. The wines are made by neighbors and longtime family friends Bernard Baudry and his son, Matthieu. The Les Tireaux Vieilles Vignes is a stunning old vine Cabernet Franc grown on an ancient vineyard site loaded with calcareous limestone; Piraeus, a soft yellow chalk infused sand; and dark mineral infused soils. The wine was vinified in wooden tanks with frequent pigeage—where the winemaker Bernard Baudry punched down the cap of grape skins to enhance the color, texture and flavor of the wine—for 30 days. This result is a Cabernet Franc with exceptional depth, flavor and complexity. The wine was aged in small oak barrels for two years and was bottled without filtration. From an exceptional vintage, this Chinon has immense concentration and the potential to age gracefully for decades.

The deep and expressive 2001 Cuvée des Tireaux-Vieilles Vignes is a must for Cabernet Franc lovers. It is very low production and with around four years of bottle age it has harmonized and is starting to show exceptionally well. The nose offers round, velvety plum notes cloaked in dense wood smoke, rose petal and rich, forest floor tones. The palate is concentrated and balanced, and exhibits ripe plum, currant and black cherry flavors with hints of wild herb, tobacco, mineral and earth. It builds in the glass as its firm but understated tannins soften. Lively acidity with French oak undertones carries into a long, hearty finish. This is a highly elegant, “naturally made” Chinon and is perfect with roast chicken, grilled artisan sausage, pork chops, lamb chops or rare beef. Decant for full enjoyment now or cellar for another 10-20 years.

—Donald