San Fabiano Calcinaia’s Chianti Classico is made from 100% Sangiovese that is harvested from the estate’s San Fabiano vineyard site, which is southwest facing at 250 meters above sea level. The grapes were harvested in late September and after pressing and fermentation in stainless steel the wine spent twelve months in second and third use barriques before it was bottled. The ’96 vintage was a good one in Tuscany and this aged Chianti is now drinking at its peak.

This smooth and approachable Chianti Classico displays an elegant nose of plum, red brick earth, and cedar with hints of lead pencil and truffle. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, this mature gem has pretty plum and cherry fruit flavors with hints of tar and vanilla smoke that ride on a silky, caressing texture. Good acidity and well-integrated tannins meld into to a lingering finish. Serve this excellent value with gamey pasta dishes, roast pork, leg of lamb or grilled sirloin.

—Donald